B16B stroked to 1.8 with TODA parts...


Yes K20A still has advantages of newer TECH but is damn hard to tune and not many around would be confident. B-series would be easier to tune. Stroking your B16B to 2.0L will make it feel like non-turbo vs turbo... lol
Keep this thread updated :nice:
 
So, do you think theres much more work to go for 2.0 stroker instead of 1.8? I just don't want to make it too hard for the mechanics over here as I'm not so confident with any here.

Blinx, would you know the R/S ratio of the 2.0L stroker? It's worse than 1.8 right? Whats the safe redline on a 2.0L stroker?
 
jugbugz said:
So, do you think theres much more work to go for 2.0 stroker instead of 1.8? I just don't want to make it too hard for the mechanics over here as I'm not so confident with any here.

Blinx, would you know the R/S ratio of the 2.0L stroker? It's worse than 1.8 right? Whats the safe redline on a 2.0L stroker?
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the rs ratio of a 2.0 or a 1.8 will be the same if using a b18c crank and rods it will be 1.54. the was you get it from 1.8 to 2.0 is just boring out to 84mm which does not affect rs ratio, but you do need aftermarket sleeves for that which is expensive.
 
hmm, What would the CR be? Max redline? And would tuning be harder?
 
jugbugz said:
hmm, What would the CR be? Max redline? And would tuning be harder?
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sorry i meant to go back and edit my post to answer those questions but i forgot, once you have a b18c crank in there you can buy off the shelf pistons from cp/probe/je/weiseco/ross/arias/etc... and choose any compression you want from 8.0 all the way up to 14.0 :nerv: as far as revving the motor its all about a good sleeve job and balance/blueprinting :nice: if its built properly 8500-9000 should be safe :) but sleeves cost about 1000+ balance/blueprinting is usually another 800 so as you can see the costs start to go UP UP UP :angry: tunning is really just dependant on compression, the higher you go the more sensative it gets, but aside from that a 2.0 isent any harder to tune than a 1.6 :)
 
Thanks! :nice: What about a sleeve brace that fits onto the bottom end of the sleeves? My mech was showing me the part and it stops the sleeves from vibrating too much, is this any good?
 
jugbugz said:
Thanks! :nice: What about a sleeve brace that fits onto the bottom end of the sleeves? My mech was showing me the part and it stops the sleeves from vibrating too much, is this any good?
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im going to use one but my car is turbocharged and will be under A LOT more stress, an NA car does not need one, plus you have to hone the cylinders after install which adds to the cost once again, so basically my short answer is no you dont need it :)
 
Thanks man :nice:

Oh, and my BMW mech just also confirmed that theres no tuner capable over here to tune a HONDA... :angry:
 
blinx9900 said:
you have to learn how to tune it yourself now ;)
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Me?! Tune?! :shocked: Man, I think I'll blow it up within the first minute LOL
If there was some sort of guide to tune with Power FC on a honda then that would be :wow:
 
unfortunately you have to be a dealer to have full access to the power FC interface :angry:
 
But any tuner can still tune it right?

Ok, I've done some research on cams + CR and was quite surprised. And before I make any decisions i want to get some opinions...

I've found out that Toda Spec B cams won't go as well as Spec A with a CR of under 12:1. They really need around 13+ in order to give it more headroom and put it apart from spec A. There was some guy who had a B16A and had a compression ratio of 12 and tested and ran both Toda Spec A and B.
The surprising thing is that the TODA Spec As made more power than the Bs. He said the setup was 'undercammed' and Spec Bs only 'overcammed' his engine. That goes for any other cams that are around the same league as Spec B.

I've been researching on other cams that are around TODA As spec and have found some of the following vs stock;

Stock B16B cams:
Int-243 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-235 dur. / 10.5mm lift

SPOON
Int-256 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-245 dur. / 11.1mm lift

JUN Type 1
Int-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift
Exh-268 dur. / 10.0mm lift

JUN Type 2
Int-267 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift

Skunk Stg 1
Int-252 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-249 dur. / 10.8mm lift

TODA Spec A
Int-290 dur. / 11.6mm lift
Exh-280 dur. / 11.2mm lift

I've heard that Spec A has good increases in mid range and top end, however I also heard Skunk stg1 has better top end than spec As which is weird because Toda As have higher profiles... Also heard, JUN type 2 has huge mid range and not much is known with JUN type 1.

What do you guys think? Can anybody tell with the figures? Toda As does have the highest profiles but how come skunk stg 1 makes better top end?
 
jugbugz said:
What do you guys think? Can anybody tell with the figures? Toda As does have the highest profiles but how come skunk stg 1 makes better top end?
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Skunk2 admits its intention to concentrate the performance(not only for cams) at high revs so, I believe is must be a matter of design. It can also be weight difference.... the same like comparing the performance of a 185 hp - 1000 kg car with a 185 bhp - 1200 kg, or something like that :)
 
anybody thought about the top fuel 2l Stroker kit? block from b16b is the same as the JDM integra b18 block, just different head etc. so install a b18 head and the 2l stroker internals and you have a stroked 2l b18 without modifying your block, am i right?
 
JDMjunkies.ch said:
anybody thought about the top fuel 2l Stroker kit? block from b16b is the same as the JDM integra b18 block, just different head etc. so install a b18 head and the 2l stroker internals and you have a stroked 2l b18 without modifying your block, am i right?
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ehhh kind of right, but we talked about this a million times already...
 
hmmm, but Stg 2 is on like Spec B class and I don;t think I'll have enough compression with 11.1CR from the 1.8 stroker. Thats why I was looking towards Spec A as it made more HP than Spec B with lower compression. Do you think it'd be good to skim the head like you said before with the stroker? Thanks guys! :nice:

JDM Junkie: Those kits are very pricey... I just got a quotation with JUN 2.0L stroker and it was like $6200US just for the kit. And like blinx said before, Just adding 84mm pistons and new sleeves on top of the 1.8L stroker will give you 2.0L :nice:
 
jugbugz said:
hmmm, but Stg 2 is on like Spec B class and I don;t think I'll have enough compression with 11.1CR from the 1.8 stroker.
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actuallyi think the S2S2 are bigger than toda B, and yes i think 11.1 is fine or just keep your ctr pistons and you'll be at like 12+

jugbugz said:
Thats why I was looking towards Spec A as it made more HP than Spec B with lower compression.
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i dont believe this, how low of compression are we talking about?

jugbugz said:
Do you think it'd be good to skim the head like you said before with the stroker? Thanks guys! :nice:
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if your tuner can tune such high compression engines then yes do it, but some tuners cant tune high compression.
 
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