B16B stroked to 1.8 with TODA parts...

[jugbugz]

ok sorry if there is a post somewhere about stroking the B16B to 1.8L. But I need help...

Whats the pros and cons of going to 1.8.

I'm thinking about TODA's kit either staying with 1.6 or stroking to 1.8. These are some options;

opt 1. Spec B camshafts + up rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + Hi Power timing belt

opt 2. Spec C2 camshafts + up-rated valve springs + adjustable cam pulleys + head gasket + timing belt + oil pump gear + high compression forged pistons + forged connecting rods + 1.8 crankshaft.

I hear stuff like stroking the B16B to 1.8 would require the redline to be dropped to around 8500rpm for reliability. Cylinders walls cracking etc... and stuff like rod/stroke ratio...

I would like to upgrade my pistons as well with opt 1. opt 2 is damn expensive... can anyone recommend some combinations please.........

 

[No_Fear]

toda stroker kit is for b16a not b16b

 

[No_Fear]

lot of plp in my area have upgrade their b16b to 1.8 without any problem,toda makes good cams but you can use skunk or buddyclub as well

for cheap stroker you can use the spoon one its oem parts.

 

[jugbugz]

lot of plp in my area have upgrade their b16b to 1.8 without any problem,toda makes good cams but you can use skunk or buddyclub as well

for cheap stroker you can use the spoon one its oem parts.

yeh, I don't know whether to stay 1.6 or go 1.8... is there much more work than just swapping parts and tuning?

I've read some comparisons with cams such as TODA, Skunk, jun etc, and still think TODA is best all rounder for my preference...
http://www.g-motorsports.com/camshaftandvalvetrain.htm

I heard that TODA Spec B cams makes the 1.6L feel like a 1.8L, said that secondary lobe has almost the same lift as the VTEC (middle) lobe...

SPEC C just has more lift on the vtec lobe on top of the Spec B.

sigh... I really don't know... I think if stroking the motor costs too much then why not just put a k20A in there...

 

[blinx9900]

if your going to stay NA you need the biggest engine possible 1.8 or 2.0

 

[jugbugz]

yeh I want to stay NA... If I want bigger engine, then K20A is easier... LOL

What are your opinions on the options blinx?

 

[No_Fear]

that you header about toda spec B and C that make b16 feel like b18 its true

 

[blinx9900]

yeh I want to stay NA... If I want bigger engine, then K20A is easier... LOL

What are your opinions on the options blinx?

well, if you have the money, you can sell your b16b for a good price, then if you could get a deal on a k20 that might be a good option

 

[teg boy]

as the b16b is a de-stroked b18c i would get b18c crank and rods from a dc2 type R and keep the b16b pistons for higher compression.

 

[blinx9900]

as the b16b is a de-stroked b18c i would get b18c crank and rods from a dc2 type R and keep the b16b pistons for higher compression.

yeah but he's gonna have like 12.5+ and with huge cams??? thats kinda dangerous. hes gonna have to retard the timing so much to avoid detonation its gonna be pointless.

i say option 2

 

[jugbugz]

yeah but he's gonna have like 12.5+ and with huge cams??? thats kinda dangerous. hes gonna have to retard the timing so much to avoid detonation its gonna be pointless.

i say option 2

Blinx: How much time would it take to do option 2? I did here that TODA's stroker is only for B16A. How come they're not for B16B as well??

what other stroker kits do you recommend?

Say I just went to 1.8 with a stroker kit and keep my CTR pistons, then what cams should be recommended? I like TODA cams. 12.5 bad? I hear lots of people having higher CRs though.

According to someones calculations of the Rod/Stroke ratios, these figures suggest as follows;

1.74:1 ratio B16A r/s is safe to make power to 9500rpm with the right cam choice and piston.
1.58:1 ratio B18C r/s is safe to make power to 9000rpm with the right cam choice and piston.
1.84:1 ratio B16B r/s is safe to make power to 10krpm with the right cam choice and piston.

I like the look of that 10k figure lol


If I install a K20a, would I loose the AC, etc? I need my AC... LOL

 

[jugbugz]

as the b16b is a de-stroked b18c i would get b18c crank and rods from a dc2 type R and keep the b16b pistons for higher compression.

and trick everybody that it's a B16B... hauhahaha

 

[JayH]

OEM 1.8 stroker kit (including ITR pistons), TODA B/Skunk2 Stage2 cams, Hondata/Unichip, and lying about it being a 1.6L while scaring the crap out of people = priceless

IMO its safer to build your block as Honda intended. Sure you can bump your compression to 12 or 13 but I doubt you'll have a peace of mind everytime you hit 8000rpms...

The OEM 1.8 stroker with thin gaskets and a skimmed head (probably a good idea if the engine has some mileage; aluminum heads warp after a long time of "spirited" usage) will provide the necessary compression for TODA B/Skunk2S2 if I am not mistaken.

Of course more is better, but you gotta take reliability and longevity into consideration...


Well built, well maintained engines with low compression practically last forever.

 

[jugbugz]

OEM 1.8 stroker kit (including ITR pistons), TODA B/Skunk2 Stage2 cams, Hondata/Unichip, and lying about it being a 1.6L while scaring the crap out of people = priceless

priceless indeed
Wouldn't that just change my B16B into a stock B18C?
Does cams increase compression? And how much compression difference between running CTR and ITR pistons? Blinx was saying something like 12.5?

IMO its safer to build your block as Honda intended. Sure you can bump your compression to 12 or 13 but I doubt you'll have a peace of mind everytime you hit 8000rpms...

The OEM 1.8 stroker with thin gaskets and a skimmed head (probably a good idea if the engine has some mileage; aluminum heads warp after a long time of "spirited" usage) will provide the necessary compression for TODA B/Skunk2S2 if I am not mistaken.

Of course more is better, but you gotta take reliability and longevity into consideration...


Well built, well maintained engines with low compression practically last forever.

How much should be skimmed off on the head? Yes I want reliability and don't want to blow my motor... I don't think I'll be prepared to install a K20A if that happens...way too much work...

 

[jugbugz]

What do you guys think of the 11,000rpm ek9? I think I can get the Block brace and oil pan etc... Another guy got one from SS works that doens't require the Oil Pan. He hasn't used it and is willing to sell...

Also someone was saying SPOON released a 13,000rpm with 14,000rpm redline B16B! Don't know if that setup is sold to public though...

 

[Anto-EK9]

Any of ye tried the spoon stoker kit?

 

[JayH]

Whats wrong with the OEM ITR setup?
12.5+ compression is a little too extreme for a daily car, no? And a lot of money to build properly. Unless, yous is a track car.


If you can get the Spoon block brace at a good price then by all means get it. I hear its really expensive though? If the process is available, adding some studs (posting) in the water jackets will probably further strengthen your block for a reliable 10krpm+ even with a 1.8 stroker.

 

[blinx9900]

Blinx: How much time would it take to do option 2? I did here that TODA's stroker is only for B16A. How come they're not for B16B as well??

what other stroker kits do you recommend?

Say I just went to 1.8 with a stroker kit and keep my CTR pistons, then what cams should be recommended? I like TODA cams. 12.5 bad? I hear lots of people having higher CRs though.



If I install a K20a, would I loose the AC, etc? I need my AC... LOL

the stroker kit only fits b16a becuase it has a shorter deck height. other stroker kits? spoon or eagle are both good. price on option 2 depends on how much you can get the parts/labor for. 12.5 cr is high, but it depends on what grade fuel is available in your area. im not sure if you can keep AC on a k20 swap, im sure you could, might have to just make some custom brackets/mounts/etc...

and just so everybody knows: SPOON BLOCK BRACE IS DISCONTINUED!!!!

and why is everybody obsessed with spinning 10 million rpms??? dont you guys know thats worse than a turbo as far as longevity??

 

[jugbugz]

hmmm, tough decisions... I know SPOON block brace is discontinued, but I can still get it from my source in Japan. I also can get the SS works block brace from someone who wanted to fit it onto a 2.3L but end up didn't work out.

Blinx: We've got 98 pump gas, and boosters anywhere, so no probs with gas. 100 octane should be coming within the next year or so. They already have it in Melbourne and Sydney.

I heard that to keep the AC I need some EP3 CTR parts... LOL!!! And I'll need some parts from the EG civic for the steering part etc etc... Man, crazy hey. And so many people in the US have K20A in their EK. sigh...

 

[blinx9900]

hmmm, tough decisions... I know SPOON block brace is discontinued, but I can still get it from my source in Japan. I also can get the SS works block brace from someone who wanted to fit it onto a 2.3L but end up didn't work out.

Blinx: We've got 98 pump gas, and boosters anywhere, so no probs with gas. 100 octane should be coming within the next year or so. They already have it in Melbourne and Sydney.

I heard that to keep the AC I need some EP3 CTR parts... LOL!!! And I'll need some parts from the EG civic for the steering part etc etc... Man, crazy hey. And so many people in the US have K20A in their EK. sigh...

98-100 octane 12.5 CR should be fine and yeah a lot of kids here have a K engines, i could have had one for 2500 but i refuse to buy stolen goods average price on the swap is 6-10K!!! installed.