What N/A set up are you running?


If you are declaring...have you got a quote for a b18 in your car & a quote for your engine plus cams etc to help decide? I would say if you have a good engine in your car already and find a good tuner to do the work reliability will not be an issue. B18 is still the best option as said already, due to adding to it later.
 
Problme i have with a B18 is the only reliable people i know that can do it are Hond-r. They want 3k.

Insurance wise Is 640 Fully comp with all mods and cams.

About 940 Fully comp with a B18.

If i could find some1 cheaper to do a B18 then i would go for it.
 
Could always do the job yourself, thats what i plan to do a little further down the line. Never done anything like it myself but when swapping for such a similar engine, how hard can it be??
 
I know everyone knows this but after reading a bit, its best to mention - its the torque that your after if you want your car to pull. HP is just for your top speed. higher capacity will always pull away in higher speeds.

You can get more torque with lumpy cams ofcourse but still wont surpass what a 1.8 already has.

Can see some people like to stay 1.6L for their own preferences, but higher capacity motors will always make more power and torque with every mod in comparison. stock K20A EK9 will pull 13.0 sec 1/4miles for a reason.
 
jugbugz said:
I know everyone knows this but after reading a bit, its best to mention - its the torque that your after if you want your car to pull. HP is just for your top speed. higher capacity will always pull away in higher speeds.

You can get more torque with lumpy cams ofcourse but still wont surpass what a 1.8 already has.

Can see some people like to stay 1.6L for their own preferences, but higher capacity motors will always make more power and torque with every mod in comparison. stock K20A EK9 will pull 13.0 sec 1/4miles for a reason.
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I know:bow:I'm so confused about what to do......

I definitly can't do this on my own i don't have the time, speac or equipment. Plus i want some sort of guarantee if it goes wrong... Engine i mean
 
Dixcelbrake said:
B18 engine is only £1500 and it save you time and money for mapping. Bear in mine a standard engine is always more reliable then a tuned engine. so you get a more powerful and stable engine for far less trouble and money.
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i agree with this :nice::nice::nice: :clap:
 
ijwhiteman said:
Plus i want some sort of guarantee if it goes wrong... Engine i mean
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never gonna happen mate,, if you get your engine modified in such a way and then get it remapped no one will give you a warranty, unless the same place that maps it builds it,, and then as you are only doing the top end you will be lucky again as they woudl say something in teh bottom caused the top to go wrong......... :nono:
 
Someone shoot me down if i am wrong but to me it would make sense to pay a bit extra for a b18 for the long term reliability factor? How reliable would the b16 be long term with all these mods assuming it is mapped correctly? Surely a b18 will give you the better daily driving performance due to extra torque outside of the v-tec. Would the v-tec pull of a cammed b16 be superior to that of a standard b18 engine?

Personally i would go with the b18, but i would say that! :p
 
olly ek9 said:
never gonna happen mate,, if you get your engine modified in such a way and then get it remapped no one will give you a warranty, unless the same place that maps it builds it,, and then as you are only doing the top end you will be lucky again as they woudl say something in teh bottom caused the top to go wrong......... :nono:
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I mean when purchasing an engine. Not cams. I know my eninge is ok. But what i mean when buying a lump for 1500 quid from a scrappy or ebay scares the hell out of me. I have no way of telling it runs. Where as if you do it through Hond-r you have that security. But 3k is a lot of dosh to get them to do it. You are oay the same price for an engine just to fit it.:nono:
 
I don't know what it costs to do this type of work in the UK, but the one thing we've all learned from buying used engines is that no matter how well kept they look, it's always best to replace all the necessary bits to avoid a costly headache.

So on top of the cost of an 18C

-timing belt
-tensioner
-water pump
-oil pump
-spark plugs
-distributor cap and rotor

I also like to open up the valve cover. You sometimes find loose nuts and bolts inside - perhaps from jealous folk who want to really ruin your day.

-clutch/flywheel is something one should also consider.
-labor of testing the compression/leakdown.

Because I mean it would really suck to install an engine that has low compression in 1 or all the cylinders... :(

We also take into account that valveseals may need to be replaced.

Parts alone it's not unusual to spend another $1000.00usd (clutch/flywheel can get expensive) and if you're not handy enough to do it yourself.... add a few hundred more just for labor.

What you get in return is a motor that ought to give you at least 100k in life.
 
Off to HOND-R tomorrow about this i called them and the will supply me an

£1900 Engine and all running gear
£763.75 For conversion and labour
£35 Cam Belt
£59 Cam Tensioner
£35 Transmission Fluid
£11.77 Oil Filter
£36 5L Oil
£14 Coolant
£70 Speed Delimiter

Clutch if needed £200

Will need a 2 1/2" Manifold and decat amd tempted to fit a genuine catylic converter rather than a decat. As apparantly will run **** with a 2 1/4":angry2:

So i'm selling the greddy manifold if i go for this set up.

Considering

TODA or DC 4-1 or 98 spec 4-1.... dependant on price


Benefits

mileage no more than a 60k block with the average being 40k

2 day turn arround

Keep old B16 block so i can sell it to make some money back ( Can not do this with cams)

3 week guarantee on the engine
 
be patient and find a used Toda.... or get a Vibrant.

the 4-1 is a good header...but damn is it ever heavy. Last thing you want is even MORE weight in the nose of your EK9.
 
RagingAngel said:
I don't know what it costs to do this type of work in the UK, but the one thing we've all learned from buying used engines is that no matter how well kept they look, it's always best to replace all the necessary bits to avoid a costly headache.

So on top of the cost of an 18C

-timing belt
-tensioner
-water pump
-oil pump
-spark plugs
-distributor cap and rotor

I also like to open up the valve cover. You sometimes find loose nuts and bolts inside - perhaps from jealous folk who want to really ruin your day.

-clutch/flywheel is something one should also consider.
-labor of testing the compression/leakdown.

Because I mean it would really suck to install an engine that has low compression in 1 or all the cylinders... :(

We also take into account that valveseals may need to be replaced.

Parts alone it's not unusual to spend another $1000.00usd (clutch/flywheel can get expensive) and if you're not handy enough to do it yourself.... add a few hundred more just for labor.

What you get in return is a motor that ought to give you at least 100k in life.
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I will change my oil and water pumps, just to be safe. Do yiu recomend any brand or OE is Ok?
 
dam thats alot of money lol. i know the best engine to do would be a b18c they have awsume torque compaired to the b16. they are also more tunable and will see much better gains than you would from the b16. now if you were to do all they mods to a b16a that you were away to do it would be faster than having a standard b18c in your car.

now if you are willing to spend over £3000 on a b18c i would look around cause there is people that would put a k20a in for that kind of money if not just a we bit les. and like said iv seen k20a in crx running 13.1-13.3 on the 1/4 and thats on a standard engine. so thats what i would be looking into with that amount of money
 
£35 Cam Belt
£59 Cam Tensioner


thats a rip off mate, oemjap parts, or even other traders, can get you cambelt and tensioner for £50, genuine honda! thats what I paid for mine.

Go landrover or honda for your gearbox oil, that will be half the price they want aswell!

oil filters, you can get honda or hamp ones for £5

I would look around for prices on parts before buying off them!
 
Where about do you base? If you near London we can get this done for you for alot cheaper.
 
Not to far andover. Just past basingstoke.. I have aready said i can get all the parts cheaper so i will just pay engine and conversion.

If you think you can do it cheaper frow me a quote. Supply a engine with arround 40k on it, fit it and set it all up. I can supply all the parts.:nice:
 
Yes we can supply everything and cheaper than what you can get not only aftermarket and also OEM parts as we get OEM parts directly from Honda Japan. Like £20 for cambelt and £30 for tensioner..etc.

email me on info@dixoncheng.com and we can discuss what you can do about your car.
 
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