What N/A set up are you running?


I will tell you what I did:

K&N intake
Buddy Club spec. 3+ cams
Buddy Club cam gears.
NGK Iridium spark plugs.
Mugen head gasket.
RC310cc injectors.
Supertech valve springs.
Crower retainers.
TODA clutch kit with lightweight flywheel.
Dc-Sports 4-1 header
Magnaflow hexaust.

I've got 205 bhp and 195 NM fo torque.
 
I forgot to say, it was in a B16a2.

Thats fantastic!!! Do i have to change the retainers??? I've been told i don't as its not such a high lift cam.

As for the B18 swap i can get that done for 3grand through a decent company. And to be honest don't really want to swap the engine. Plus my insurance is a lot more expensive with the lump than cams.:nice:
 
go b18,, and then if you want even more power do teh cams etc,, you will always have more power than if you stuck with b16,

i woudl always go B18 before doing internals
 
Greddy manifold is very similar to JDM 98 spec manifold, in fact if you put the 98 spec manifold on you will get more power from it. If you pay £100-150 more, you can get yourself a Mugen 4-1 or Toda manifold which you can get proper gain from.


dixon can you get JDM 4-1 manifolds imported for a nice price?
 
I am not changing my manifold after the agrow of getting it. It was recommended to me so that is staying.

I don't want to do a engine swap. I know my engine i know its reliably i know its had full service history and it has been well looked after.

This will be the last thing i do to my car. If i can get b18 to power from this set up cams i mean. Then that will be fine. I am only interested in what it does on the vtec anyway i want a more aggressive surge of power. Hope this makes sense.
 
I am not changing my manifold after the agrow of getting it. It was recommended to me so that is staying.

That's counterproductive. You have the chance to get 18C power from a 16A but it's not going to get any easier if you intend on CHOKING the 16A. That's like asking you to run the 100m with your mouth taped up and forcing you to breathe from your nose only. :nono:

If i can get b18 to power from this set up cams i mean. Then that will be fine. I am only interested in what it does on the vtec anyway i want a more aggressive surge of power. Hope this makes sense.

You need big cams. Something like JUN3. 18C power with a stock longblock (minus cams) has been done long ago but never with a crappy ex-mani

YouTube - preview of GhettoRacer in Hot Version video American Touge 3
 

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That's counterproductive. You have the chance to get 18C power from a 16A but it's not going to get any easier if you intend on CHOKING the 16A. That's like asking you to run the 100m with your mouth taped up and forcing you to breathe from your nose only. :nono:
You need big cams. Something like JUN3. 18C power with a stock longblock (minus cams) has been done long ago but never with a crappy ex-mani
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I understand that and i know exactly where you are coming from. But look at the UK spec integra. 190 odd bhp with a restrictive 2" B16 stock cast manifold. Mine has got to be breathing better that stock.... 2" manis must serve there purpose. For example i was told to fit this manifold from a specialist because it will capitlise on the lack of torque that the B16A2 has but will not achieve big BHP figures. And on our last rolling rd group session my torque curve was very very good conpared to others. It IS A ROAD car and i'm stiil looking to keep driveability. I just want more from my current set up. Hence spec A cams and not spec B or C. I understand that it may not be the best set up but i expect we are talking minimal differance. Its only a B16A2....
 
Thats fantastic!!! Do i have to change the retainers??? I've been told i don't as its not such a high lift cam.

As for the B18 swap i can get that done for 3grand through a decent company. And to be honest don't really want to swap the engine. Plus my insurance is a lot more expensive with the lump than cams.:nice:

The prings are very strong, so it's always good better retainers. My ones, made of steel, costed me USD70.00, My timing belt is new but by the end of the month I will be recieving my TODA belt. Cheap things that keep you on the safe side. What I liked very much about the Buddy Club cams is that they give peak power, 18bhp in my case, but they also give you more power and torque trought all the band. The car now is really fast.
 
The prings are very strong, so it's always good better retainers. My ones, made of steel, costed me USD70.00, My timing belt is new but by the end of the month I will be recieving my TODA belt. Cheap things that keep you on the safe side. What I liked very much about the Buddy Club cams is that they give peak power, 18bhp in my case, but they also give you more power and torque trought all the band. The car now is really fast.

Yes i understand. The Buddyclub spec 3 have similar spec to the spec A toda ones.

If i get anywhere between 190 and 195bhp with 130-140 ftlb with this set up i will be a very very happy man....Is this feasable?? safely!! Note no compression change.

Spoon Air filter
Spoon Kevlar intake pipe
Spoon 70mm venturi TB
Skunk2 I/M
Toda Spec A cams
Toda valve spring
Toda vernier cam pullies
Greddy 4-2-1 manifold
DC decat
Spoon B pipe
Spoon N1
 
Yes i understand. The Buddyclub spec 3 have similar spec to the spec A toda ones.

If i get anywhere between 190 and 195bhp with 130-140 ftlb with this set up i will be a very very happy man....Is this feasable?? safely!! Note no compression change.

Spoon Air filter
Spoon Kevlar intake pipe
Spoon 70mm venturi TB
Skunk2 I/M
Toda Spec A cams
Toda valve spring
Toda vernier cam pullies
Greddy 4-2-1 manifold
DC decat
Spoon B pipe
Spoon N1

I´m far from been a specialist but it looks that you can reach yours 195bhp. With this set up your car will be asking for more fuel on hight RPMs, a set of 310cc RC injectors, with the clips, is not expensive and can give you more HPs. What I realy don´t know is if that bigger TB and intake manifold will do you any good. In my case I'm using stock and it looked good enough for the flow that the engine is making. When you talk about intakes, you must have flow AND turbulence, so you can have a better fuel/air mixture. It will be better to do some more research about this, and please let me know your conclusions.
 
i understand where u are coming from. everyone kept tellin me to get a b18c insted of tunning the b16a but i just wasnt up for that at all. i wanted to stick with the engine that i know best the one that was already in my car. iv raced plenty of tegs been beatin by some then there is some that i beat. and the ones that have beet me were on the line so was still at the side of them. i know the b18c is the far better engine to tune and if you have the money go for it. also u still want to drive the car on the road witch puts some of the other set ups sugested out the window.

going by what iv seen and expereanced with myself and friends that have tuned civics your set up will work very well. and there is nothin wrong with your manifold they are good ok there is better ones out there but its more than able for the job you want it to do. i know a few people also that run the hondata and its **** hot cant fault it at all. my mate haribo is running it on his ek9 and he prob has one off the biggest n/a tunning specs on hear. and just going by the gains that i made of a set of ek9 cams v/springs retainers dc sports 4-2-1 header de-cat and fujistubo cat back i would say your set up will be more than fine.

have you thought about lookin into the gearing side of things lots of performance to be gained there and its much cheaper to
 
I understand that and i know exactly where you are coming from. But look at the UK spec integra. 190 odd bhp with a restrictive 2" B16 stock cast manifold. Mine has got to be breathing better that stock.... 2" manis must serve there purpose. For example i was told to fit this manifold from a specialist because it will capitlise on the lack of torque that the B16A2 has but will not achieve big BHP figures. And on our last rolling rd group session my torque curve was very very good conpared to others. It IS A ROAD car and i'm stiil looking to keep driveability. I just want more from my current set up. Hence spec A cams and not spec B or C. I understand that it may not be the best set up but i expect we are talking minimal differance. Its only a B16A2....

Yeah I stopped reading right about there.

You're comparing a 1.6L to a high compression 1.8L. What do you think the 1.8L would do with a better manifold?

You seem to have missed the point again. When you have the power that can be achieved with the graph I posted up, you will not suffer driveability issues. In fact it will be even better with the amount of TORQUE you gain.

But whatever... if you're convinced that this is the right way to go...by all means....show us what you come up with when it's all put together... and I really do mean it when I wish you the best... no harm...no foul from my end here.
 
Ok :thanks:. I do understand that a 1.8l will prforme miles better witha better mani. But it doesn't do to bad as it is. Thanks you for your help i have listened and all has been very very helpful. I am more knowledgeable by the day thanks to every1's input.

Nearly back on the 9 cams now though as i have just been offered a set cheap and been told i only need to change my exhaust springs as they are not double coil on the outlet of mine. But apparantly i have stiffer inlet springs than a type r so they don't need to be changed.

So thinking maybe vernier pullies, ecu on this set up will be good also and far cheaper than the toda. And less hassle.:nerv::confused:

what to do.....

Lumek4 i am also thinking about gear train and flywheel options but want to do engine first. Did you replace all your valve springs or just the outlet ones?? How much did you gain on the quarter with your cams? Also are they set at standard timing?
 
can any1 confirm what cams these are? Also do they look like they have only done 10,000 miles? Thanks

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I been looking for something like that for ages. Thanks. These pictures are crap i need better ones to determine then.
 
I have some of it. They are supplying

Toda Spec A cams £660
Toda valve spring £335
Toda vernier cam pullies £133

Hondata S300 ECU £600 fitted and set up

Plus half a day to a days tuning worst case £600 or £340 for half a day. Hereckons about half a day

This is all on a B16A2.

£1728!! if i am adding that up right mate. Did not include the £340 or £600 you stated at the bottom.

To me thats alot of money but if it's what you want go for it.
 
I have contacts mate!!! Can do it a lot cheaper..... hopefully. If not i'll do 9 cams with a similar set up. That'll save 400 straigh off the cams then i'd only need one side of springs. Half the price. Any pullies may still stick with toda. Def gonna want managment.
 
B18 engine is only £1500 and it save you time and money for mapping. Bear in mine a standard engine is always more reliable then a tuned engine. so you get a more powerful and stable engine for far less trouble and money.
 
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