Uprated grooved Disc's (Don't have to be JDM!)


Gee

Gee

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Dec 7, 2008
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I don't fancy buying an unbranded disc from Ebay, so was wondering what you guys used?

The car is 99% a road car, but I will be doing a trackday in March, so will be uprating the discs and pads.

Not 100% decided on the pads yet, but that should not be a problem. Just need some suggestions on discs for now?

Thank you guys.
 
I actually prefer the cheaper unbranded discs, for the price i would much rather get those and just change them if they get worn, i am actually on the same unbranded discs for a few years now!!
 
So...lets say we have some grooved unbranded discs on Ebay and some Brembo grooved discs.

What actually makes them 'better'?

The process of how they were made, strength of the disc?

Apparently some of these unbranded discs are Brembo blanks anyway!?

Hmm..might have a browse over Ebay.
 
i woulndt be surprised if the whole lot were made in the same place.
 
I am looking for the same thing at the moment mate!!!!

Have you tought about EBC??
I have used them on my other car's & i have never had any trubble with them!
Anyone used them on there 9???
 
Yeah, need to look into the EBC, but some people have given bad feeback after doing a search.

I've emailed Dixcel for a recommendation too, so let you know what thet say. Think the guy is on here too?
 
Gee said:
Yeah, need to look into the EBC, but some people have given bad feeback after doing a search.

I've emailed Dixcel for a recommendation too, so let you know what thet say. Think the guy is on here too?
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My EM1 came with EBC disks and pads. I an not too impressed. They stop the car but for "uprated" items I would expect more from them. But then again, it might not be them making the brakes average. Want to change fluid and lines etc to see if that makes any improvement.
 
Do not buy unbranded cheap disc's off ebay, the first bit of hard braking and they will warp
 
I've got a full set of ebc turbo, grooved and drilled discs to go on all round with ebc uprated pads, but i've also got braided lines, dot 5.1 and an mc stopper - that might sort the brakes.

I'll give some feedback when they're bedded in.
 
Gee said:
Yeah, need to look into the EBC, but some people have given bad feeback after doing a search.

I've emailed Dixcel for a recommendation too, so let you know what thet say. Think the guy is on here too?
Click to expand...

I have the EBC with the green pads on my Ej6 and they only lasted me for 3 years. I'm still rolling with them on even thou they are still warp. :angry: I haven't bought new ones yet but was looking into buying the PowerSlot. I don't wanna deal with drill rotors anymore. Just slotted.
 
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im using dixcel plain rotors and type z pads.....definately have a good bite to them. still not had chance to fit my new braided hoses though. think that will make the biggest difference cause im not happy with the feel of the pedal etc
 
CIVICHB98 said:
I have the EBC with the green pads on my Ej6 and they only lasted me for 3 years. I'm still rolling with them on even thou they are still warp. :angry: I haven't bought new ones yet but was looking into buying the PowerSlot. I don't wanna deal with drill rotors anymore. Just slotted.
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Only lasted you 3 years ???? That seems ok to me lol. I expect u mean 3 months as i had a friend who could destroy a set of greenstuffs in 2 months as they are so soft its untrue.

I hear alot of people talking about warping disks now this only normally occurs if you brake hard enough to get your pads realy hot then stop and keep your brakes on e.g your hot pads are being pushed into the disk thus warping that area.

Ive heard a few people say including Dino_supermoni on here say that the wobbeling feeling or what people think is warped disks is usually down to people not bedding the pads/disk in.

Remeber to that you should allways get new pads if your disks are new and give it 500-1000 miles of very gentle braking to bed them in. For example red stuff pads need 1000 miles min to bed them in. Some people may dissagree but i think its worth it just to be safe.

I think as with all things you get what u pay for but also some brands overcharge. If your only gonna do say one track day a year just get some fast road pads and disks dont worry about paying mega bucks for them and once you get faster on the track and start going more then throw £500 at your brakes.

I used to have a cheap set of unkown brand disks on my EJ9 and they never warped and i used to brake hard all the time and i mean so hard i was nearling locking the wheels with decent rubber on there. They only starting wobbeling when i got some new pads and didnt bother bedding them in.
 
When i had my old Yaris Tsport i had 3G discs on the front which are regarded to be pretty good and they cost me £117 a pair but they warped and did on other peoples cars too but then i replaced them with cheapo jobbies from Ebay that cost me £48 and never had a problem with them before i sold the car. Low price doesnt ALWAYS mean poor quality.
 
I think the main difference between cheap and quality disc is the
quality of the metal.

Brembo makes differente rotors for differente prices, they all come from the
same building (I think so...)

I would recommend OE (original equipment don't mix with oem : original equip.
manufacturer !!) and plain disc.
OE stuff will last longer too.

The reason for plain disc is to have the maximum material for heat dissipation and contact patch with the pads.
Anyway drilled rotors will crack unless it's Porsche stuff :D

+ a set of high quality brake pads.
 
I was referring to grooved discs though, not drilled.
 
forget grooved discs altogether.

Don't bother with anything but the blanks unless you're willing to spend on something like Dixcel or Endless.

Even Spoon units have tended to warp and once they do, they are really hard if not impossible to resurface.

I wouldn't consider drilled or slots till the rotor size is at least 12in. in diameter.
 
cam we all know vti disks are too small for the power, hell even my eg5 disks got warped in 2 months. vtis need at least 282s, 262s do not cut it, they heat up too much, like i said, my eg5 ones are shot.

warping is termal insability in the disk. un even crystaline structure, or poor heat conductivity. keeep the heat down, less chance, hence larger diss are better, more energy is removed in less transfer.

anderson, your comment about holding the brakes on hot disks is invalid, remeber all calipers float on the disk, the alighnmint is self centring, so this is not true.


i dont know what is best to buy, but my next brake upgrade is to pelude calipers and 282 mg zs disks, but if i had the calipers it would be a dc5 brembo or s2000 300mm setup
 
RagingAngel said:
forget grooved discs altogether.

Don't bother with anything but the blanks unless you're willing to spend on something like Dixcel or Endless.

Even Spoon units have tended to warp and once they do, they are really hard if not impossible to resurface.

I wouldn't consider drilled or slots till the rotor size is at least 12in. in diameter.
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So, for track twice a year and fast road use, stick to stock discs and uprated pads is your suggestion?
 
Lynch said:
cam we all know vti disks are too small for the power, hell even my eg5 disks got warped in 2 months. vtis need at least 282s, 262s do not cut it, they heat up too much, like i said, my eg5 ones are shot.

i dont know what is best to buy, but my next brake upgrade is to pelude calipers and 282 mg zs disks, but if i had the calipers it would be a dc5 brembo or s2000 300mm setup
Click to expand...

Yea as you said Lynch the 262 are a bit weak like. I plan to uprate my brakes to something similar but not for a while.
 
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