Tuned engines!?


elchunk said:
A common problem with hc B20 builds seems to be the slieves letting go due to the thin liners. I'd love a beastly B18C personnely over a K-series swap.
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Yea I have read this also, would be best to shotpeen the rods and have better sleeves fitted with forged pistons. Probably bomb proof after that with a good map! would be ace but I still have my concerns about revving them high!

Tom19 said:
The good part is you keep your head with a b20 block, it's pretty good value for money just make sure you use quality parts and it should be very reliable:nice:
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Yea a B18 or B16B head works great with B20's after the research i have done plus B20 blocks aint that expensive
 
DOSvtec said:
the rings have been changed recently mate and the pistons looked ok but i was thinking since, i might change the crank and rods on my b16b to make it b18 and then drop in the cams etc!? was thinking on using buddyclub cams as they seem to have a better power gain over all the powerband while skunk make the power at higher rpms but not many people use bc's over here. as for the weight, i only have 2 fronts seats in the car now so thats taken care of :D
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Il sell ya my block, i dont think i can afford to finish my engine,:-(
 
B20's are a good setup, as said you can keep your head and pick a block up for around £200-£250

mine made just under 200bhp with a 2.25 exhaust and standard air intake, did have EK9 cams but still good power and compared to what you pay for b18c's they are a very good option, may even build a high comp one myself sometime soon again :D
 
lloyd said:
Il sell ya my block, i dont think i can afford to finish my engine,:-(
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you should finish the engine now lad since you have everything there and do the paint after, thanks for not hitting the vtec the last night to leavin my house lol:drive: but if you dont want the block, ill have a look at it
 
Whatever you go with have it built yourself! Talking from experience you do not want to take the risk of buying from someone you dont know you can trust.
 
I reckon you could build a very reliable b20 producing around 200-210 bhp running very smoothly for about 2k as its not all about the bhp's of course!
 
To me the ek and it's b16 is a special car and engine , it seems a shame to remove such a awesome engineered engine ,does it not loose the ek,s true identity removing it's original lump :-/ , think my thinking with my car is to make the most of what I have I can understand k swaps in a ej or ek4 but 9 hmmm
 
tama666 said:
Im a B fan. Why i really do not know.
One down side for a track setup is the oiling issues with the B's.
Cant take corners at high RPMs for a prolong time; long sweepers.
To avoid starvation issues, lower RPMs in turns.

With a K track setup...use torque and lower RPMs everyplace, less of a starvation issue.
I just do not like the feel of the K shifter, to vague of a feel for me, not 100% sure if I got the right gear or not...not good for spirited driving.
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No comment on the oil, but the shifter, on track I would occasionally miss a gear with the B16, with the K, I miss shift a lot more, usually 2nd or 3rd out of a corner, its just a different box to get used to.
 
Tom19 said:
I reckon you could build a very reliable b20 producing around 200-210 bhp running very smoothly for about 2k as its not all about the bhp's of course!
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i really just want the engine to have good power, built well and mapped properly which would = more fun but still not sure what route to go, the k series is out of question now i think as id rather stay b series.

webbie said:
To me the ek and it's b16 is a special car and engine , it seems a shame to remove such a awesome engineered engine ,does it not loose the ek,s true identity removing it's original lump :-/ , think my thinking with my car is to make the most of what I have I can understand k swaps in a ej or ek4 but 9 hmmm
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thats why i was thinking on just changing the block and not the whole plant so some of the originality would still be there with only me knowing :naughty:
 
Go K series mate you won't look back. Once you fit a few bolt on's and get a mapped ecu you will see the full potential of the K20!! Amazing NA engine
 
Vtec6000 said:
Go K series mate you won't look back. Once you fit a few bolt on's and get a mapped ecu you will see the full potential of the K20!! Amazing NA engine
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im thinking if i go k series, i would have to declare it to the insure co's to keep things right and i really dont want it to go any higher but if i change the crank and rods or block to b18/b20, i wouldnt have to say anything!?
 
DOSvtec said:
im thinking if i go k series, i would have to declare it to the insure co's to keep things right and i really dont want it to go any higher but if i change the crank and rods or block to b18/b20, i wouldnt have to say anything!?
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It might not effect your premium that much but worth making a call to your insurance company and checking. If there's a "b20" stamped on the block it could be questioned in the event of any claim been made
 
tama666 said:
Im a B fan. Why i really do not know.
One down side for a track setup is the oiling issues with the B's.
Cant take corners at high RPMs for a prolong time; long sweepers.
To avoid starvation issues, lower RPMs in turns.

With a K track setup...use torque and lower RPMs everyplace, less of a starvation issue.
I just do not like the feel of the K shifter, to vague of a feel for me, not 100% sure if I got the right gear or not...not good for spirited driving.
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Whats the main reason for oil starvation besides oil pan and oil pump gear upgrade? The design?

I much prefer the K-series shifter. I can shift much faster than in my Ek9.

Would be a dream to have a 6-speed box for B-series.
 
I find this funny to see :) So much people prefering the B18 over the K20 because of the engine characteristics, B18 is said to be more raw. While if the same question is asked about B16b vs B18 just a few people will prefer the B16b because it's more raw and the majority would choose a B18, as I've seen before in discussions. Even though the difference in characteristics between a B16b and a B18 is the same difference as between a B18 and K20.

Anyways, if insurance works out I'd defo go K20. From what I've seen, people spend K20 money on getting their B18 to 210whp, while a K20 gets that (or even a bit more) and a much broader powerband with a few simple bolt ons and then there is still plenty of room left to tune. And about the characteristic, it's not like the K20 doesn't like to rev, it's not become a diesel :p
 
DOSvtec said:
you should finish the engine now lad since you have everything there and do the paint after, thanks for not hitting the vtec the last night to leavin my house lol:drive: but if you dont want the block, ill have a look at it
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dont lie dean you would have done the same leaving my house, and that thing of yours is louder off vtec than mine flat out ;) :p
 
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