K20A - A few home truths.


Filled up last Monday, car hasnt been used much since due to the snow, I had the engine light on after an hours drive a while back, just thought a gliche as it hasnt happened again, pick up hasnt been so good lately but not really noticed much as I have not been driving hard due to conditions (revving or overtaking).
 
_JT said:
why the fuel rail and the fpr? Can't you just use stock?
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Because all K-series have whats called a headerless system where the fuel pressure regulator is located in the tank with the pump assembly. I believe some of the benefits are to put less heat into the fuel from it being pump into the hot engine bay then back to the tank and reduce parts used in production

Althogh the factory fuel coolers on all b-series are quite effective on track.
 
Always fill up at Tesco, Momentum stuff, was mapped on this. Not hit a Shell for a long while.
 
haitch said:
Filled up last Monday, car hasnt been used much since due to the snow, I had the engine light on after an hours drive a while back, just thought a gliche as it hasnt happened again, pick up hasnt been so good lately but not really noticed much as I have not been driving hard due to conditions (revving or overtaking).
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First thing is to pull the code if one has been stored. If you download the latest version of K-Pro from hondata website, use any A to B USB lead and connect it. With the ignition on but engine off, wait for the laptop to recognise the K-pro then press F10. a baloon message should tell you to press this anyway then after you have, if there is an error code present then you can click the button along the top that is titled 'Error codes' and see which are listed. this is where you need to start bud!

For the dyno testing what standard was each operator using? SAE/DIN/etc. and which mode? also ask if it was inertia only or a timed run, if it was a timed run then the two tests (seperate dynos settings) need to be run the same time for it to be definitivly comparable.

Hope you get it figured out bud!
 
I had some nigely problems also when getting my k20 dc2 built. All worth it in the end. Il find it very hard to go back to a b series. 235 bhp 170 torque from a k20a2. With breathimg mods. Hope you get all the problems ironed out. And get her back out on track
 
Championship White said:
Vtec, you think it is a lower octane fuel than it was mapped for in the tank?
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Something like that I would guess if nothing has changed on the car. A lot of guys will push the timing on these to get every last .5hp out of the car lol and the engine can be running at the verge of inducing knock from too much advance but once the octane rating of fuel is consistent there shouldn't be any problems however get a bad batch of fuel and that's when a problem will occur.
 
eg6-R said:
I had some nigely problems also when getting my k20 dc2 built. All worth it in the end. Il find it very hard to go back to a b series. 235 bhp 170 torque from a k20a2. With breathimg mods. Hope you get all the problems ironed out. And get her back out on track
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That you Nally?:D
 
Vtec6000 said:
Something like that I would guess if nothing has changed on the car. A lot of guys will push the timing on these to get every last .5hp out of the car lol and the engine can be running at the verge of inducing knock from too much advance but once the octane rating of fuel is consistent there shouldn't be any problems however get a bad batch of fuel and that's when a problem will occur.
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really annoys me when people tune in this manner, its much better to be slightly conservative to give the motor a bit of cusioning should you get a bad tank of fuel / really hot day / elevation change etc, :nice: :drive:
 
olly ek9 said:
really annoys me when people tune in this manner, its much better to be slightly conservative to give the motor a bit of cusioning should you get a bad tank of fuel / really hot day / elevation change etc, :nice: :drive:
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I agree and personally I don't like to push the timing too much but often peak power is found right on the verge of knocking. There is compensation tables for increase in IAT or ECT temps due to hot weather etc and barometric pressure changes correction on some EMS which once set up correctly are very effective. Thankfully the kpro utilises the stock knock sensor and is able to pull timing in the event that knock level exceeds the set threshold.
 
Been to see Romain this morning, big drop in torque before vtec, vtec engages but its minimal, all sensors ok, its not looking good, off to TGM now to discuss compression/leakdown test.

Graph from this morning..

CarsickRomygraph.jpg
 
Did they check as Vtec6000 said about the fuel, I think I read somewhere that there are summer and winter blends of fuel for optimum operation. I know that my farm has been having trouble as the diesel delivered was the wrong blend and becomes 'waxy' in the cold so that the machinery was stalling.
 
Championship White said:
Did they check as Vtec6000 said about the fuel, I think I read somewhere that there are summer and winter blends of fuel for optimum operation. I know that my farm has been having trouble as the diesel delivered was the wrong blend and becomes 'waxy' in the cold so that the machinery was stalling.
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all the dealers have started selling additives now to try and help with that, i think its got something to do with the amount of bio-diesel they have started to blend into the red diesel nowadays,
 
At first Tom thought it was something to do with temps as my rad is huge, and its cold outside now but appears not. He road tested it and it is definately not hitting the high cam, flat as a haddock. It is not using any oil, no smoke and to him it sounds healthy.
Tomorrow it goes in for tests, he will start by replacing the vtec solenoid I think then work through with whatever time he has. I dont think the fuel is the issue here, and I know Romain has given me a cusion and not taken the tune to the max.

Updates as I have them I guess :((
 
I hope it's something simple and easy. Though if it was the vtec solenoid then surely you wouldn't be losing power before the lobe switch-over?
 
Who knows mate, start with the simple things, just a process of elimination now.
 
haitch said:
At first Tom thought it was something to do with temps as my rad is huge, and its cold outside now but appears not. He road tested it and it is definately not hitting the high cam, flat as a haddock. It is not using any oil, no smoke and to him it sounds healthy.
Tomorrow it goes in for tests, he will start by replacing the vtec solenoid I think then work through with whatever time he has. I dont think the fuel is the issue here, and I know Romain has given me a cusion and not taken the tune to the max.

Updates as I have them I guess :((
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I was actually going to say its like your not hitting vtec but from the dyno sheet Romain gave you it does look like its hitting vtec as the torque curve wouldn't continue level like that if it wasn't. Quick question, when you lift up off the accelerator in gear is the car slowing down quicker than it normally would?
 
Doesnt seem to be any different.

Romain said it was hitting vtec but not aggressive at all. On the road its different, normally you get that sudden change of noise and the car takes off, but all I get is a louder induction noise at the moment, Im accelerating but its just flat. No warning lights on the dash either after pushing it today.
 
haitch said:
Doesnt seem to be any different.

Romain said it was hitting vtec but not aggressive at all. On the road its different, normally you get that sudden change of noise and the car takes off, but all I get is a louder induction noise at the moment, Im accelerating but its just flat. No warning lights on the dash either after pushing it today.
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Did he datalog and see if the vtc cam was rotating? Had a look at the spark plugs yet?
 
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