JohnTurbo's B18C EK4 Race Car


Long delay but I had other priorities.

Engine is in the car and runs, but I haven't driven it yet.

Idle is a bit pants as one might expect using a b18c map in S300.

Biggest issue was the large crank seal was leaking like a bitch. I had to take the gearbox/clutch/fly off to remedy this but its now sealed and just needs running in.

No driveshafts so need to do that first. Thinking I might fit my b16b cams for run-in as I can't get a mapping slot with my tuner (EFI Parts) for 4 weeks.

Otherwise all looks good.

As you can see I bought it a Skunk2 Pro mani and a trick looking billet TB off someone on here. And some red hoses.

Still to go on is a nice ITR radiator.


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Done about 20 miles now. Firstly it ran terribly but the jdm p30 needed injector error and baro sensor disabling on the s300. Runs well now.

Booked in for 27th June for tuning at EFI Parts. - A properly 'first principals' tuner with an amazing knowledge.
 
Well!

Got my engine calibrated and it ran like a champ. My 310cc injectors are not big enough though and are at 100% duty.

It ran 220.1bhp and 140lbft. Power peaks at about 8500rpm.
 
Good results. 310cc should be plenty big for the power your running. I suggest you fit a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the pressure. Any time I see a car where injector duty cycle is a lot higher than what I expect to see for the given injector size and power output it is almost always a problem with fuel pump or fuel pump wiring. You will see on the fuel pressure gauge if the pump is struggling.
 
This is exactly what Chris@EFI suggested....especially because when the car had sat for 10 mins then had another run it ran a touch rich suggesting the pump was pumping harder having cooled.

HOw much power can you get from 310cc though? - Currently its at 12.5ish AFR.
 
JohnTurbo said:
This is exactly what Chris@EFI suggested....especially because when the car had sat for 10 mins then had another run it ran a touch rich suggesting the pump was pumping harder having cooled.

HOw much power can you get from 310cc though? - Currently its at 12.5ish AFR.
Click to expand...

Depending on fuel pressure, circa 260 bhp, can get a little more from them if you raise the fuel pressure.
 
Basically Toda C cams & ek9 pistons in b18cr and all the supporting bits that raise the cost to the 3k mark!
I have a decent I/H/E setup too.

I have been having fun setting my cam timing more accurately.
I got a piston stop made up and a longer probe for my dti.

Interestingly the guides all suggest not to use the probe on the follower (instead the retainer) but if you are using peak lift settings its not important. All you are looking for is finding what angle the peak occurs at. I used peak lift -0.1mm either side of the peak.

My exh was 2.5 crank degrees out and inlet 6 crank degrees out. That was opening late - i assume this means "retarded".

I have an oil cooler in the post and a beefy fuel pump to fit.
 
APS pump fitted! should hear it prime!

ITR radiator looks like a pain to fit. Might rethink that.
 
Radiator should be no problem , just the bottom mounting brackets to move
 
The top mounts are different too. Think a better small one will be neater.
 
As mentioned in another thread, VTEC6000 was right - the new fuel pump cured my 100% duty issues.

I am unsure what they are at now but its healthy.

Other changes were my Mk2 3D printed velocity stack, an alluminium elbow/inlet pipe (3") and my adjusted cam timing.

Below in RED is an one of the plots from last time (actually the pump was cooling, so it ran a bit richer and lost 2hp top end compared to an earlier plot)

BLACK is now. - SO I lost 1.9hp top end but gained 10lbft and 12hp everywhere else. - This will be the effect of the cam timing!


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Just for fun i traced the plot from an earlier b16B (same dyno, exhaust, car) onto the new B18C graph:-

11855735_10101248311635882_2187791719485803134_n.jpg


Quite a difference!!
 
Very impressive figures there mate! I'm looking into stroking my b16b with uprated cams, I'm sure you're build will come in handy as a reference:)
 
Thanks man! There was some question as to whether my cams could do the job in a (relatively) standard and low revving bottom end.
I am pleased with the results.
 
Great difference over the stock b16b!

What fuel pump are you using?
 
APS - basically a Walbro clone. I think it outflows a Walbro - not that I need that extra flow.
 
Done a couple of little bits to the Civic.

Finally fitted my Federal FZ201s in 205 fitment which is massive. No way is it 205. Seems to clear the arches because I don't run that low anymore (it cocks up wishbone angles).

I've polybushed the front anti roll bar and all three bushes in both front wishbones. The upper arms are already hard rubber hardrace jobbies.
This is a horrible job, burning out the old bushes gets sticky smelly rubber ash everywhere, and the Energy suspension grease is very thick, horrible smell stuff.

Otherwise my MOT expired and I thought I'd sort out a CAT.
I bought an EK4 cat, because despite my level of mods it the 410mm UKDM decat I have....but then found the stock cat is about 1cm in diameter.

I then bought a 200cell stainless race cat with the right 2.5" collector but just tube out of the rear off Egay. I got some 2.5" tube and a flange from Tegiwa as B16mini suggested and that's away at the welders.

New DENSO lambda sensor to go on with it.

Finally I noticed at Angelsey that my driveshafts were clicking at tight lock. I have bought and fitted a pair of those ebay special J&R jobbies. I have heard they do ok, so I will see!
 
Great results with the new engine build, very impressive!
Let us know how you get on with the shafts, had thought about getting a set before but opted for a second hand shaft.

Also do you want the thread title changed?
 
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