JohnTurbo's B18C EK4 Race Car


They are abit big for your engine setup. I mapped a b16b a few months back with those cams, it had a heavy headskim and 2 layer HG. They didn't really shine until past 7500-8000rpm and low-midrange power did suffer however if your breathing mods are good and the engine can support the revs, they will carry power well past 9000rpm! I think on one run where I revved it to see where the power would start to tail off it was still going at 9400!
 
Interesting info. Depending on the ptv I can skim it too of course. It should peak lower on the b18 though. I guess I will see! Im hoping for circa 215-220bhp and strong torque.

Im trying to do a budget build...is there such a thing?!
 
We seen just under 200bhp on that b16b with Toda cams. A better intake would have probably netted him a few more bhp. Just for reference a healthy b16b with good breathing mods and a map will see around 180-185bhp on my dyno(Dyno Dynamics). If it is strong torque your looking for I don't think those cams in that engine is going to fit the bill! You can try play with the cam timing to increase your midrange torque but typically what you will gain low-mid from cam timing changes you loose out on at higher rpm's so bit of a catch 22!

lol, depends on your budget! Good luck with the build :nice:
 
Budget build with toda c's good luck but may be well worth doing it right 1st time good luck anyway look forward to results :)
 
EK4 Luke said:
Budget build with toda c's good luck but may be well worth doing it right 1st time good luck anyway look forward to results :)
Click to expand...
Just because it's a budget build doesn't mean it's not being done right!
Cams can be swapped out easily anyway if it doesn't deliver the desired results
 
Haha...indeed.

Nothing will be bodged (the builder Im using do more race engines than anything else) - also there is plenty of engines of this exact spec - found reference to 2 in the states and 2 in Aus. All made 200whp pretty much exactly.

And indeed - should the cams prove too wild (by peaking at over 9k) - I will swap them out.

Honestly I think people are sometimes too quick to go straight to forged. There is a lot of snobbery in the Honda world that doesnt exist in other circles.

If this was a street engine I would be more likely to spend more money - I have it, but read my thread. I wont risk lunchung a 5k engine!
 
I totally agree with what you are saying, it would be nice to buy the best forged parts and build the engine to the highest spec but there has to be a line drawn where its both affordable to do and then affordable if something goes wrong in a race application and it needs rebuilt again

I look forward to seeing the results
 
Point taken
Build, race, break, repeat
am genuinely also looking forward to power graph :)
 
Been busy there! Look forward to results, whos doing your map?
 
Nice build man hope it all goes well for ya you could always get that spoon sump kit and bottom end thing that lets the engnes rev out to 10000 rpm then ud see power gains haha but budget build so mabey not haha
 

Not my finest performance... I had a bad cold, and it rained a bit, and I was worried about my temps. (See light on gauge after 1 lap!)
Then I reallised I wasn't wearing gloves and was trying to hide my hands from marshals.

I was close to bottom, compared to 11th or something at Angelsey.

Oh well!
 
Looked a slippery one mate, & once that grass gets a hold! Good dice with the red Puma :nice:

Build latest?!
 
Build...bought ARP studs, Crower steel retainers and Ferrea 6000 series valves from the states. Oh and a Cometic bottomend gasket kit. Basically my top end will be pretty high quality.

Otherwise Im trying to coax Impulse to start work on the required machining. They seem busy!!
 
If you hit your target power, with the right weight you should be battling in the top ten, no pressure :naughty:

Seems like you have plenty of time before Snett, but it comes around quick!
 
Bored out to 82.5mm and honed.


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Full head recondition including degrease, sleeved bronze valve guides, recut valve seats, blasted ports and chambers, painted silver, oilways cleaned and light skim.

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Also got my pistons fitted to rods, and crank journals polished.
 
This should be good!

Hopefully its reliable for you compared to the luck you've had so far
 
Spot the stupid mistake:-

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...cue a 2nd pack of valve seals!

There is some debate a to whether valves should be lapped on modern engines, and in fact there is no mention of it in the Integra R manual. I decided to do 20 seconds per valve to check the seating and remove high spots, with a fine paste.

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This is my home made valve seal installer. Its a drilled out piece of PTFE rod. I can get the seals on 95% of the way by hand, followed by 4 taps with a ruber mallet and they are seated.

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This time i remembered to install the valve spring seats first:-

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OEM retainer (right) vs Crower steel retainer left.

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Fitted all my Toda valve springs to the Ferrea (6000) valves with the crower retainers and Skunk2 seals!!

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Refitting Rockers...

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That's the head pretty much done for now.

On to the bottom end....

Checking ring gap with a feeler gauge. Measures 0.012" which is in Honda tolerance (8-14 thou for a new one).

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Fitted rings to piston 1. This is much easier than I anticipated but the pliers to help and were cheap.

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