JohnTurbo's B18C EK4 Race Car


I've lapped in valves on a b series before, I don't see any reason not to, at least you can be sure it's sealing
 
Good job mate!
I think you'll make great power with the ek9 pistons on a b18 stroke. Esp with your head setup now.
 
Definitely worth lapping the valves, i noticed some light pitting on the sealing faces before I lapped my valves but with some fine paste they come up very well to make a nice seal

I did the same thing with the valve stem seal! First time building a head myself and got excited when the head came back from machinining, knew I made a mistake as soon as I knocked the first seal on... But sure that's how you learn

That's a well spec'd head which should work well with a bump in compression, I coated the followers, cams, lma's in assembly lube to help with first start before the oil gets up around everything
 
Cheers!

I have spare S2 valve seals now if anyone elase does one in!!

What are you guy's views on stock LMAs? Mine are smooth so I thought I'd leave them be, but Matt (off here) commented on Facebook about them. I can't find anything about them having travel issues/binding - only that they gum up over time.

Well these are not gummed up at all.
 
If they compress and return to there unloaded position smoothly then no need to change but I will say that the newer spring type LMA's are quieter and won't suffer from the issues which can occur with the old style LMA's.
 
Thanks for that. I will have a listen to them and maybe add them to my list.

So, Bottom end day. (As well as fixing my Saabs airbags!)

Pistons installed with ring compressor. Getting the oil rings to go inside the bore is the hard bit for sure.

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Refitted squirters. Also fitted and lubed up the ACL Race bearings to the conrods.

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Mains fitted and lubed:-

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Thrusts fitted.
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Crank lowered in with 2 and 3 conrod journals up as per honda instructions.

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Conrod caps fitted to 2 and three finger tight, then 180 degree rotation and 1 and 4 fitted finger tight, then torqued up in two steps as per honda instructions. I was expecting it to demand a stretch gauge that I do not own.
Then mains fitted and torqued in 2 steps from inside out order.
Crank turns freely (a touch tight as one might expect) - feels just right for a new build.

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Bottom end gasket set:-

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New seal fitted. Plate liqi-gasketted.

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Oil pump refitted, windage tray refitted, oil pickup refitted. All torqued up. Will most likely get a new oil pump soon.

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We got the same ring compressor, agreed it's the bottom oil ring that's a pita, there's a technique to it though, I got all mine in with my thumbs in the end. Keeping the compressor perfectly flat to the deck.
I put my crankshaft on first, so did it arse about face but seems to be ok, same as you abit of resistance but feels smooth.
Going along well though! All oem parts?
 
Pistons are Nippon, seals Cometic, bearings ACL - so no basically, but good quality.

The rods are stock ITR.

Pushing down firmly on the compressor seemed to work well. I lowered the pistons by tapping with a hammer handle as per Honda manual.
I followed the manual to the letter with my new trust 3/8" torque wrench - then discovered that they totally omitted reassembly of the windage tray - the other M6 bolts were all 11Nm, so I did them to that.
 
Ah right, didn't see a Honda manual when I built mine, would have been handy lol
 
I used th USDM Integra manaul - it covers the B18C5 which is the C-R,C6 and also the C1 which is the C4. I have two version I downloaded free, its worth looking for.
 
Silver engine paint time:-

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Then came a lot of boring work cleaning all the cam caps etc which were very dirty from some years of poor maintenance on this engine. (Though low wear suggests it was only recent years)

At this point I used plasticine to partiall fill the piston recesses on cyls 1 and 4. This was so the valves would leave impression to work out the P2V clearance.

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Then I built the engine up with the old head gasket shown, fully torqued it, and timed it.
Then I set valve lash on cylinder 1 - I left it on the others as it was touching the lobe - it would exaggerate any clearance issue I thought.

4 complete crank revolutions (2 cam revs) and then stripdown showed no marking at all to the Plasicine.

This is a bit odd, as I was expecting it to be really close. Its not close at all!!

So then i built her back up with a new genuine Honda gasket, and killed myself getting the ARP 85lbft torque settings.

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Did you lock the vtec cam on? It's the high lift cam that could cause you issues with P2V
 
So easy to miss a step isn't it! Worryingly easy tbf.
 
To save stripping it again you may be able to use some soft thin solder to check you p2v by feeding it down the plug hole. Not ideal and a bit of a fiddle though
 
Its the duration difference thats the bugger as there was at least 3-4mm of clearance and the low lobes are 11mm vs the 12.5mm vtec lobe.

Basically its still definately clear enough - unless the duration causes a problem.
 
Yeah if they are open later then it could couldn't it.
Think it's best to just do it again, small inconvenience now but could save a lot of aggro later.
Probably will be fine like you say but you've done it all properly so far...
 
Its the brand new HG in the bin thats the big issue. I will try the plasticine on a cable tie covered in wd40 method - if no joy then new HG it is.
 
Finally got the engine moved to my new house.

Will look at finishing it but with work needed on the house its slowed shizzle right down.

John
 
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