Track car?????


ohhhh this sounds like a pain in the arse lol

so safety is obviously the top priority for a roll cage right?
does the structural integrity of the of the car make a difference on the track be it stiff or not? or will just a good suspension setup make it good along with the roll cage?

it just wont go in my head:angry2: lol
 
so safety is obviously the top priority for a roll cage right?

IMO Yes this is the most imortant reason for fitting a cage. All me and chris are saying is that many cheap cages are more for show and struturally not as good. For example my Cusco one is near a grand brand new and for ulitmate chassis rigidty and protection you want a full weld in cage. With a bolt on any rigidty gain is a bonus but is not your main reason for fitting one.

does the structural integrity of the of the car make a difference on the track be it stiff or not?

I would say so. Untill you fit a cage IMO your driving in effectivly a bath tub untill everything is all tied in together and working well.

or will just a good suspension setup make it good along with the roll cage?

A good suspension set up and tyres will make a very good fast road and track car. My EK4 had a fair bit done to it and i was impressed on track. Just needed stickier rubber and better brakes.
 
For starters dont worry about a cage, stick to your limits, just get out there and have some fun, it will become apparent what you will need as you get more experience. For me I will soon be trying slicks, been doing TD's for 3 years, last year I pushed the EK9 to the limits on a couple of days, I will either get a cage or get a new car next year, it is a gradual process building up the car and your experience - some move faster than others, trick is to move at your pace & have fun doing it.
 
cool well thanks guys some superb advise:nice:

ill see how it goes at coombe on the 16th as i have 2 sessions booked
then hopefully try and get a few other airfield days on the go!:drive:

if any of you guys would like to sort one out with me let me know, possibly keevil or colerne?
 
a custom cage will cost you 2 grand fitted + painted minimum,(my shell is just getting painted) probably nearer 3 if you get custom cages to do it, so not a budget mod:nono:
 
If you are using semi slick tyres isn't it best to have a baffled sump?
 
Well spotted Andy, for the first couple of outings try road tyres to get a feel on how the car reacts, but then as you push your limits a baffled sump is a good buy.
 
ash-EK4 said:
cool well thanks guys some superb advise:nice:

ill see how it goes at coombe on the 16th as i have 2 sessions booked
then hopefully try and get a few other airfield days on the go!:drive:

if any of you guys would like to sort one out with me let me know, possibly keevil or colerne?
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Give me a call at combe and i'll make sure i get some good action shots of you on track mate. :nice:
 
will do buddy:nice: hopefully she should be a flyer it wasnt exactly slow when i had the 1.5 engine in there:drive:
 
new rally car just getting painted, start the build in a couple of weeks:nice:
 

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thats why it costs so much then! lol i take it thats the best one they do then?
no wander its cost you 3k!
should be quite a weapon once its done so what have you got planned for it then?
 
club rally car, been collecting bits for ages, dog gearbox, 282 brakes, camber arms + all the saftey gear, underbody gaurds, engine is a b16a, modified head, toda cams, itb's so should be fun, but money has run out now so need to rob a bank next !
 
cusco cage (blue in color) = made out of chromoly and has weird bends and pivot points if you opt for the 6pt one. That is the one people get ridiculed the most about stateside and refer to as the "toy cage." Not certified for sanctioned racing events, and is regarded as a "street cage" in Japan.

safety 21 (black in color) = mild steel DOM - iirc (drawn over mandrel). Also comes with the option of having lame bends that "hugs" the contours of the dash but also comes in a version that pierces the dash right up to the pillars. This one is available with or without pivot points I believe and would be the one that is suitable for club racing as it is certified by the JAF (Japan Automobile Federation) which is Japan's version of the FIA.

This is the cage that I have for my DC2-R.

In terms of starting out on mods alone:

-baffled sump (protect your motor)
-shifter bushings (you will be doing a lot more shifting)
-new engine mounts or inserts if you can tolerate the vibration (motor does a lot of violent things when shifting at high rpm)
-decat (high rpm = heat = melted cat = failed testing)
-solid bucket seat
-steering wheel of your choice
-good pads and fluids

These are just the general basics I would do to any car to prep for the track.

AshEK-4: If mods are necessary, again being biased here, I would focus on drivetrain components. Lightweight flywheel, final drive or close gears or both and as you've already mentioned, the clutch.
 
i have all of that stuff listed, apart from the baffled sump solid bucket seat and transmission mods i have a b16b flywheel and ACT stage 2 clutch thats it on the transmissoin side
 
Assuming you've yet to take it on track then I'd just go and use it as it is for the moment. If you get bitten by the bug then maybe worry about making it a bit more specialised then.

Personally, out of all the things you listed, changing the driver's seat to a fixed back and getting a decent harness would be what you'd find the most benefit from.
 
Definately go and take it for a trackday as it is now, then you'll know which bits aren't performing as you want.

Take note on the EK9 setup with regards to suspension setup, springs rates, ARBs and so on, and you will definately 100% want an LSD. I would recommend going for the EK9 S4C gearbox or the 96 spec ITR box, the 98 Spec S80 doesn't really look like it has the right ratios for a 1600, bigger drop between the higher gears, most people strive to shorten them up not increase them!

Also, make sure your discs and pads, particularly pads, are good quality equipment. Since you've upsized the fronts you may also want to look into upgrading the rears too.
 
clockwoRk said:
Assuming you've yet to take it on track then I'd just go and use it as it is for the moment. If you get bitten by the bug then maybe worry about making it a bit more specialised then.

Personally, out of all the things you listed, changing the driver's seat to a fixed back and getting a decent harness would be what you'd find the most benefit from.
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clockwoRk said:
Doh!
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How did you manage to drag this one up jim!:win:
 
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