Spoon EK9 Hi Comp B18C Track Car


ijwhiteman said:
I won't be, as ground clearance seems to be a real issue with the Hytech and smsp headers.
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Have you looked at Bisimoto? Mega ground clearance! This is mine below:
hello10p.jpg
 
Vtec6000 said:
Was under the impression engine alone cost the 8500. Yeah I can see where all those bits would add up:nice:
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Yeah there is a lot more to just the engine build than meet the eye. Still a lot of cash though :nerv:

turbowizard said:
This build is ace!!
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Thank you :nice:

matt o said:
go on goon boy havnt seen ya for ages xx
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Would love to come but i'm not gona be able to make it :(

Hope i can find some dollar to do Donnington with you both.

House warming soon though :p

Ash-EK9 said:
Looks amazing ian! Jealous.com!
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Thanks mate, much appreciate it :nice:

Mr Ross said:
Can you add a bit more detail and pics to your build thread mate, took no time at all to read through it.....
Your cars acceleration, cornering and braking is awesome. I liked it a lot.... so much so im going to buy one.
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Ha ha added some more for you mate. :) Be great when you've got one too. :win:

tama666 said:
Have you looked at Bisimoto? Mega ground clearance! This is mine below:
hello10p.jpg
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I've got a full width Koyo radiator aswell though..... Bisimoto won't fit in with that.

I'm not convinced that a new manifold will make that much difference over the Mugen one i've got? How can it?
 
If its HOT Donny your talking about, dont forget price is only £250 until the end of July, hope to book it on Friday myself.
 
haitch said:
If its HOT Donny your talking about, dont forget price is only £250 until the end of July, hope to book it on Friday myself.
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Not sure Martin mentioned it. I can't afford to book it yet. Move into our first home in 10 days. :dance:
 
The manifold will make a hell of a diffrence. You would of been better off changing the manifold over the exhaust. I've seen a manifold totally change a High comp setup with a big set of cams before (Brian Crower stage 3). The manifold can be just as important as the cams believe it or not.

If you ever want a decent amount of more power out of this car in the future you'll need to work out a way to get a **** hot manifold on there. Trust me....
 
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martin251184 said:
Yeah it's the HOT one. I am hoping to book it on payday.
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Damn it!!!

Rich777 said:
The manifold will make a hell of a diffrence. You would of been better off changing the manifold over the exhaust. I've seen a manifold totally change a High comp setup with a big set of cams before (Brian Crower stage 3). The manifold can be just as important as the cams believe it or not.

If you ever want a decent amount of more power out of this car in the future you'll need to work out a way to get a **** hot manifold on there. Trust me....
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I'm even more confused now after looking and searching arround.

I need a Good ground clearing full width rad clearing race header. What about getting one made..... :nerv:
 
ijwhiteman said:
Damn it!!!



I'm even more confused now after looking and searching arround.

I need a Good ground clearing full width rad clearing race header. What about getting one made..... :nerv:
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The 4 tube collector is the issue as it relates to ground clearance...custom or not to gain ground clearance it needs to be moved further up or back on the header/manifold...like on bisimoto and others. If moved forward you loose clearance on the radiator [swap it out for a duel core 1/2 radiator, 2 pass cooling much like your full radiator, 1 pass].

Custom header/manifolds are not low cost either, for the headers/manifold that work that is.

Or go with a 4-2-1 setup
 
tama666 said:
The 4 tube collector is the issue as it relates to ground clearance...custom or not to gain ground clearance it needs to be moved further up or back on the header/manifold...like on bisimoto and others. If moved forward you loose clearance on the radiator [swap it out for a duel core 1/2 radiator, 2 pass cooling much like your full radiator, 1 pass].

Custom header/manifolds are not low cost either, for the headers/manifold that work that is.

Or go with a 4-2-1 setup
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Ok so its about increasing the tube length not the dia? I am absolutely keeping my radiator only just bought it! lol

At least with a custom header he could make it to fit better...

I have a 4-2-1 now?
 
ijwhiteman said:
Ok so its about increasing the tube length not the dia? I am absolutely keeping my radiator only just bought it! lol

At least with a custom header he could make it to fit better...

I have a 4-2-1 now?
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Both length and ID are equally important on the manifold.

The reason the bisi manifold is weird looking is due to keeping the tube length long; the collector in front of the engine block, as well as the ID changing per bend in the manifold [bigger per bend/turn in the tubes prior to the collector]. But as you can see, no room for long radiator.
This is why custom is pricy, but works when designed and built correctly.
The manifold is more important than the radiator in my view especially if you have options on the radiator.
 
Could you take some measurement from your for me. Perhaps i'll design one for my motor....

Primary tubes ID

Primary lengths

I track my car so cooling is very important to me.
 
You would certainly get better options with a half width rad, full width is overkill, wish I had used a half width as mine has caused plenty of unnessary hassle, you would get your money back on a resale easily.

Choose you custom builder carefully, the quality on mine is good, price was great at £450 but it only produced a smidgen more than my DC unit and after two tuners it is proven to have a flat spot, Will has almost ironed it out but still..

I would look to a top US builder with proven rep, send your requirements and plenty of pictures to help, that is unless you know of one here that can put in the R&D that is definately needed, as I have found its not a case of just 'putting one together'. Or you could try the DC as Will suggests..

I have spent similar to you on my swap and months on, the header choice still needles me..
 
ijwhiteman said:
Could you take some measurement from your for me. Perhaps i'll design one for my motor....

Primary tubes ID

Primary lengths

I track my car so cooling is very important to me.
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Mine is custom made for 12:1 compression, 1.8liter, 3" exhaust...specific to my requests/custom made for my setup only. I have no way of measuring the ID of the tubes, as I can not access them. I can check each step of the OD but what good would that be without knowing what gauge wall tubing used at bisi? Basically locked out of knowing without cutting a manifold from bisi into small parts to measure. Not going to happen.

Cooling is very important to me too but there are other methods to cooling and gaining space to add more power in which both can be achieved. Your long radiator is fine, you just need to work around it, like your Mugen does today. Toda also with a smaller gain over the Mugen. But that is the limiting factor for you, long radiator and where the collector is on the manifold/header. I would say that my 1/2 rad 2pass is as good as your full 1 pass rad.
 
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I stand by the full width i'm affraid water cools the oil inturn too. Also i'm not chopping and welding my chassis again to return it back to a single rad. No way. :nono:

Maybe a DC but i really don't see it gaining much over what i've got already... 5-6hp maybe? Is it really worth chucking a further £1500 at? If it was 20hp i'd be more tempted but i'm not finding any real evidence only hear say.

haitch said:
You would certainly get better options with a half width rad, full width is overkill, wish I had used a half width as mine has caused plenty of unnessary hassle, you would get your money back on a resale easily.

Choose you custom builder carefully, the quality on mine is good, price was great at £450 but it only produced a smidgen more than my DC unit and after two tuners it is proven to have a flat spot, Will has almost ironed it out but still..

I would look to a top US builder with proven rep, send your requirements and plenty of pictures to help, that is unless you know of one here that can put in the R&D that is definately needed, as I have found its not a case of just 'putting one together'. Or you could try the DC as Will suggests..

I have spent similar to you on my swap and months on, the header choice still needles me..
Click to expand...
 
ijwhiteman said:
I stand by the full width i'm affraid water cools the oil inturn too. Also i'm not chopping and welding my chassis again to return it back to a single rad. No way. :nono:

Maybe a DC but i really don't see it gaining much over what i've got already... 5-6hp maybe? Is it really worth chucking a further £1500 at? If it was 20hp i'd be more tempted but i'm not finding any real evidence only hear say.
Click to expand...

Then I would recommend to stick with your Mugen header and full rad [DC is a down grade]. Nothing wrong with yours, its actually a very good setup! But this is your bottle neck.
 
Fair one mate, I wouldnt change my rad now either :lol: , all my pipework has been sorted around it, my manifold is on the other side though, depends how badly you want it sorted. The DC may be cheaper but it might produce better torque?
 
So the only 2 option i see are

Stay as is...

Or get a Hytech copy and get my exhaust builder to modify it to

A fit my custom system

and

B the 2-1 collector part for more clearance if need be?
 
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