My B16a Dyno


M

moon*

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
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247
Hey guys, recently i did a dyno on my b16a.

155.29whp n 141.22 of torque:P

but my A/F Ratio kinda jumping up n down :(

can anyone tell me wats my A/f suppose to be?

the straighter the better?? should i keep it around 13.5??

anyone here heard of UNICHIP b4? would that be a good investment??

The mods:

4-2-1 Header
Simota Twister Intake w/ customade heatshield
aftermarket Radiator
stock b16a ECU
RSR Exhaust
De-cat

here's the result

 
Nice numbers, I really don't know how you got that much torque, since I've only seen that torque numbers in B20 motors.

Definitely you have problems with your air fuel ratio, you need to have it between 13.6 - 13.8 thats the "safe" place to be. You are running very LEAN between 5900 to 7300 rpm. You should get a aftermarket ecu and a fuel regulator, I don't know the climate of your country, but in my country we all run with the a/f ratio between 13.5 to 13.8 because we have the track at the sea level and its very very hot.

In what gear did you ran on the dyno for this dyno sheet?
 
he bro rvm, thanks for posting.

ehm.. mebbe its the conversion for the torque??
cos i compared mine n urs.. mine is in N-M n urs is ft-lbs??

i did a conversion online. Torque Conversion

144.2nm torque = 106.36 ft-lbs torque

i m on 3rd gear during the dyno. here in KL/MAS is quite HOT as well.. especially in the noon. i notice the jump especially when my VTEC engage. it does crazy :shocked:

i m planning to get UNICHIP, u heard of tis b4?? btw.. wanna check your full tank can store how many litres of fuel? 40-45??

my full tank can travel about 5xx-600 km PER full tank..
my other frens' b16a doesnt seem to be able to do tis.

oppsss sorry, forgot u'r on b18c.. hehe nvm, ignore that den :P


rvm said:
Nice numbers, I really don't know how you got that much torque, since I've only seen that torque numbers in B20 motors.

Definitely you have problems with your air fuel ratio, you need to have it between 13.6 - 13.8 thats the "safe" place to be. You are running very LEAN between 5900 to 7300 rpm. You should get a aftermarket ecu and a fuel regulator, I don't know the climate of your country, but in my country we all run with the a/f ratio between 13.5 to 13.8 because we have the track at the sea level and its very very hot.

In what gear did you ran on the dyno for this dyno sheet?
Click to expand...
 
Ohhhhh now it makes sense you have between 109 to 110 lb/ft of torque, that sounds right to me now.

Yep, I've heard of UNICHIP, I don't like the fact that this "ecu" sits in between the oem ecu and the male / female harness, I think this can make this mod unreliable.

I'm pretty sure this ecu cant control ignition? for me is just like a VAFC.

How much money are you going to pay for it? I think that for the money or a little more you can get something better.

I'm pretty sure someone else will comment on UNICHIP, keep in mind I just gave my personal opinion, I can be wrong about UNICHIP :)

moon* said:
he bro rvm, thanks for posting.

ehm.. mebbe its the conversion for the torque??
cos i compared mine n urs.. mine is in N-M n urs is ft-lbs??

i m on 3rd gear during the dyno. here in KL/MAS is quite HOT as well.. especially in the noon. i notice the jump especially when my VTEC engage. it does crazy :shocked:

i m planning to get UNICHIP, u heard of tis b4?? btw.. wanna check your full tank can store how many litres of fuel? 40-45??

my full tank can travel about 5xx-600 km PER full tank..
my other frens' b16a doesnt seem to be able to do tis.

oppsss sorry, forgot u'r on b18c.. hehe nvm, ignore that den :P
Click to expand...
 
i think the torque numbers are uncorrected as that is insanely high and virtually impossible per the horsepower to torque relationship...

per your dyno, if the tq numbers were correct you would have 155whp by 6000rpm and 205whp by 8000rpm. never forget horsepower is a function of troque. all dyno's read torque then calculate horsepower based off that:

horsepower=torque multiplied by RPM then devided by 5252
 
blinx9900 said:
he torque numbers are uncorrected as that is insanely high and virtually impossible per the horsepower to torque relationship...

per your dyno, if the tq numbers were correct you would have 155whp by 6000rpm and 205whp by 8000rpm. never forget horsepower is a function of troque. all dyno's read torque then calculate horsepower based off that:

horsepower=torque multiplied by RPM then devided by 5252
Click to expand...

Its 141 Nm! hehehe its 109 ft/lb for us lol
 
ehhm..
if unichip tats around rm 2199 = USD710 (inclusive of tuning n dyno)
(UNIVERSAL) can plug n play to any NA vehicle)

if apexi Power fC rm 3000? = USD968 (inclusive of tuning n dyno)
(only on ek)

its stated in the webbie that the unichip can do the following :-
Fuel Control
Ignition and Control
VTEC / MIVEC / VANOS Control
Increases Rev Limit
Removes Speed Limiter
Idle Control
Warning Lights
Launch Control
Full Throttle Gearshifts
Boost Control
Extra Injector Control
Water Injector Control
Nitrous Control

rvm said:
Ohhhhh now it makes sense you have between 109 to 110 lb/ft of torque, that sounds right to me now.

Yep, I've heard of UNICHIP, I don't like the fact that this "ecu" sits in between the oem ecu and the male / female harness, I think this can make this mod unreliable.

I'm pretty sure this ecu cant control ignition? for me is just like a VAFC.

How much money are you going to pay for it? I think that for the money or a little more you can get something better.

I'm pretty sure someone else will comment on UNICHIP, keep in mind I just gave my personal opinion, I can be wrong about UNICHIP :)
Click to expand...



ehhm.. did u mixed up the conversion part?? after conversion i have about 100++ of torque only

hey blinx, u mention my OCT is placed wrongly? mind to correct me??

blinx9900 said:
i think the torque numbers are uncorrected as that is insanely high and virtually impossible per the horsepower to torque relationship...

per your dyno, if the tq numbers were correct you would have 155whp by 6000rpm and 205whp by 8000rpm. never forget horsepower is a function of troque. all dyno's read torque then calculate horsepower based off that:

horsepower=torque multiplied by RPM then devided by 5252
Click to expand...
 
It sounds ok, now the question of the 10000000 dollars! hehehe

Does your tuner can tune using UNICHIP or Power FC or both?

Ask him with what ecu did he get better numbers ?

Depending on this answers you can decide which ecu you are goint to buy.

I use apexi power fc, and I love it hehehe :)

moon* said:
ehhm..
if unichip tats around rm 2199 = USD710 (inclusive of tuning n dyno)

if apexi Power fC rm 3000? = USD968 (inclusive of tuning n dyno)

its stated in the webbie that the unichip can do the following :-
Fuel Control
Ignition and Control
VTEC / MIVEC / VANOS Control
Increases Rev Limit
Removes Speed Limiter
Idle Control
Warning Lights
Launch Control
Full Throttle Gearshifts
Boost Control
Extra Injector Control
Water Injector Control
Nitrous Control





ehhm.. did u mixed up the conversion part?? after conversion i have about 100++ of torque only
Click to expand...
 
moon* said:
ehhm.. did u mixed up the conversion part?? after conversion i have about 100++ of torque only

hey blinx, u mention my OCT is placed wrongly? mind to correct me??
Click to expand...

whats OCT? i didnt see the first post about the nm, i thought it was in torque when i first read it lol.

unichip is great if your tuner can tune it, its not that popular here but its pretty good.
 
ehh.. both tuners are from different company..

wel.. unichip is universal, so it can be transfered to other vehicles if i plan to move on.

and powerfc.. i heard its quite hard to tune?

still having dilemma between tis 2.

rvm said:
It sounds ok, now the question of the 10000000 dollars! hehehe

Does your tuner can tune using UNICHIP or Power FC or both?

Ask him with what ecu did he get better numbers ?

Depending on this answers you can decide which ecu you are goint to buy.

I use apexi power fc, and I love it hehehe :)
Click to expand...



OCT = Oil Catch Tank.

u mention earlier in the other thread, my setup is wrong. i was hoping u can point me OUT , show me some pics or guildlines on how i should relocate the pipes to catch the oil??

blinx9900 said:
whats OCT? i didnt see the first post about the nm, i thought it was in torque when i first read it lol.

unichip is great if your tuner can tune it, its not that popular here but its pretty good.
Click to expand...
 
Your OCT setup isn't wrong, but if you are not tracking your car seriously, then its not a requirement.

You can set it up as a basic PCV can though.
 
eheh.. i do plan to visit Sepang International Circuit with my frens tho :P

my ride is more setup for track, not drag. my 180sx fren gonna smoke me

dying to try it out there.. but lack of time due to work :(

MFactory said:
Your OCT setup isn't wrong, but if you are not tracking your car seriously, then its not a requirement.

You can set it up as a basic PCV can though.
Click to expand...
 
BTW; wanna ask.. i m on a stock b16a with the stock TB.

if i was to change to a bigger TB, lets say 1 b16b TB or b18c TB.

how will it affect my performance? will it increase?? will my fuel consumption be affected? or will be degrade my performance since my engine is stock n so much air is sucking in??
 
moon* said:
BTW; wanna ask.. i m on a stock b16a with the stock TB.

if i was to change to a bigger TB, lets say 1 b16b TB or b18c TB.

how will it affect my performance? will it increase?? will my fuel consumption be affected? or will be degrade my performance since my engine is stock n so much air is sucking in??
Click to expand...

Hello, you answered yourself, if your engine is stock, it is ok to leave your stock TB maybe you should get a cold air intake instead, I recommend you the mugen one.

Also you don't need to buy a B16B throttle body, you can polish yours and make it a 62 mm one.
 
the b16b tb is same as the b16a unit. both are 60mm, only the ITR unit is 62mm.
 
eheh. :P

i do have a CAI now. i customade the heatshield n drill a hold @ my bumper for direct cold air intake :nice:

rvm said:
Hello, you answered yourself, if your engine is stock, it is ok to leave your stock TB maybe you should get a cold air intake instead, I recommend you the mugen one.

Also you don't need to buy a B16B throttle body, you can polish yours and make it a 62 mm one.
Click to expand...


alrite men, thanks :)
blinx9900 said:
the b16b tb is same as the b16a unit. both are 60mm, only the ITR unit is 62mm.
Click to expand...
 
I believe even 13.5 AFR is still too lean. 12.5-13AFR is the safest place. Theres only 1hp difference between 13.5 and 12.5-13AFR, but anywhere from 100%-200% more stress internally.

In hot countries, you really need a cold air intake. But with $1000(mugen) you can build a Short ram intake + enclosed box + cold air feed which will give you MAX performance.
 
oh izzit?? 13.5 still too lean?

i was going thru couple of forums n came across few fella posting the figures got na n turbo.

na = 13.5
turbo = 12.5

u were saying to adjust the reading to 12.5. wont that be a turbo figure that i'll be using?

jugbugz said:
I believe even 13.5 AFR is still too lean. 12.5-13AFR is the safest place. Theres only 1hp difference between 13.5 and 12.5-13AFR, but anywhere from 100%-200% more stress internally.

In hot countries, you really need a cold air intake. But with $1000(mugen) you can build a Short ram intake + enclosed box + cold air feed which will give you MAX performance.
Click to expand...
 
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