My B16a Dyno


jugbugz said:
Dynos vary all over the world.
My cars figures are;
EK9 123whp
DC2R 133whp
DC5R 143whp

Probally because i'm in the southern hemisphere and using dyno dynamics. EK9 on dynojet read 137whp. :)
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True..very true.
You are not far from me... :)
We are using dyno dynamics too, i asked them about their dynos and they said if you want 200+hp it is a simple tweak on the computer, the main thing is the gain after tuning under same environment.
They also said, note hp(ps) in the graph means flywheel power, c_hp = wheel horsepower.
So all the dyno graphs i see here is it really WHP? Or wish it was WHP?
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I'v just had an uni chip installed. Didn't see this tred till now. When it was tuned the afr was running v lean peeking at 14 someting. But i had shell vpower in the tank at the time. Would this b the reason it was running lean? I'm still in contact with the tunner an we are both resurching what can be done when tuning and how to get the most power gain out of the uni chip system.
Cheers
 
Number are so far 187bhp before unichip and after 197bhp but was lean so changed it back to safe ratio but then didn't get a final readin. Am goin back to get one soon. N e advise about what to do?
Cheers
 
14 is running a bit lean, i would not run at high rpm for long. It could mean higher temperatures. But leaner does usually make more power. Thats what i was told any way.
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Ashton22 said:
I'v just had an uni chip installed. Didn't see this tred till now. When it was tuned the afr was running v lean peeking at 14 someting. But i had shell vpower in the tank at the time. Would this b the reason it was running lean? I'm still in contact with the tunner an we are both resurching what can be done when tuning and how to get the most power gain out of the uni chip system.
Cheers
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wtf? you better hope its not peaking 14 at the top end.
 
Ashton22 said:
N e one else have n e advise. I'll keep it between 12.8 - 13.4.
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in the bottom end, you can keep it around 14

in the mid range, keep it around 13

start of 6000rpm, keep it 12.7-13

near redline or 8000rpm+ keep it around 12.5

So basically, your AFR should gradually go down.

Only turbo cars need to go down to 11
 
yer it was wtf at the time 13.5-14.5 after 6000rpm. we did rectify this before we finished. now it normal ish 11-12.5 all the way form 500-8600rpm
 
put the bottom end to around 14 and you'll make more power there. Then gradually down to 12 at top end. Going to 11 is not necessary for a N/A motor. Your loosing power and running rich Atm.

Ofcourse you dont need to take my advice.:)
 
I am not sure if it helps but my EK4 as dynoed and tuned with e-manage.
Note the A/F was abit wierd but smoothed the power out.
Mods:
P&P head
Skunk 2 intake
62mm throttle plate
Mugen exhaust + 5-Zigen manifold.
Panel K&N filter

Stock B16A4 engine
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YourBettina
 

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moon..i really doubt that those dyno number are from ur 'stock b16a'...more likely to looks like a b16b..a 155atw will translate to merely 180+bhp! thats a type r spec bro...hehe.. anyway...this actually indicate a healthy n powerful engine setup..kudos :)
 
EK4_SIR said:
I am not sure if it helps but my EK4 as dynoed and tuned with e-manage.
Note the A/F was abit wierd but smoothed the power out.
Mods:
P&P head
Skunk 2 intake
62mm throttle plate
Mugen exhaust + 5-Zigen manifold.
Panel K&N filter

Stock B16A4 engine
Click to expand...

well, one things for sure is you need put more fuel in after 7000rpm. Its running too lean and heat will be a problem. You will always make more power running lean but at 7000rpm+ your going to over heat and make it not so realiable and damage something. Just bring it down to 12.5-12.7 at top end, if your living in hot countries, 12.2 is better...

It also looks like you might need new injectors. They look like they're dying. If you plan on getting cams, calculate the injectors you need for your target HP, otherwise, for the time being, try to add more fuel if you can.

Normally at the end of the run, it should run rich, but yours is going lean right off the chart.
 
jugbugz said:
well, one things for sure is you need put more fuel in after 7000rpm. Its running too lean and heat will be a problem. You will always make more power running lean but at 7000rpm+ your going to over heat and make it not so realiable and damage something. Just bring it down to 12.5-12.7 at top end, if your living in hot countries, 12.2 is better...

It also looks like you might need new injectors. They look like they're dying. If you plan on getting cams, calculate the injectors you need for your target HP, otherwise, for the time being, try to add more fuel if you can.

Normally at the end of the run, it should run rich, but yours is going lean right off the chart.
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Thanks Jugbubz for the advice, I am sure trying to convince the tuner (Hong Kong) to listen to me, he is very arrogant and says adding too much fuel kills power. I tried to access the E-manage (Blue) but it's password locked. A tuning session costs around 150 pounds which is alot in my case for tweaking the fuel in the upper range. I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I will see if adding more fuel pressure will increase the performance a little. I will also take out the plugs and see if they white or brown after a hard run.

Cheers.!
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GoldyDoll4You live
 
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EK4_SIR said:
Thanks Jugbubz for the advice, I am sure trying to convince the tuner (Hong Kong) to listen to me, he is very arrogant and says adding too much fuel kills power. I tried to access the E-manage (Blue) but it's password locked. A tuning session costs around 150 pounds which is alot in my case for tweaking the fuel in the upper range. I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I will see if adding more fuel pressure will increase the performance a little. I will also take out the plugs and see if they white or brown after a hard run.

Cheers.!
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You can just check your plugs whenever, but definely something is going to melt soon. Its true that running lean will give you more power, but the amount of heat and stress its generating isnt worth 3hp increase, which isnt something you can feel. Sure it has its bragging rights on paper, but man, its going to get expensive rebuilding the engine.

Thats why you should run 14+ in low RPMs, 13 mid and 12.5 Top end. As RPM rises, more stress and heat on the motor. I remember someone here said they had problems with timings and then realised that their Spark plugs melted. lol! I bet their pistons and valves aint in good shape either.

So, do you have a B16A or B16B? You have stock mods, so your injectors are more than sufficient. Only thing is, they might be dying or your tuner loves to run everything lean.

When you run lean, your engine gets very hot, therefore, your performance will also go down when its too hot. As well as your coolant getting a good beating. Do you live in hot country?
 
I would like to see the printout of the torque curve that goes with the a/f map. did u see it? was it smooth or erratic like the a/f?
 
EK9Zilla said:
I would like to see the printout of the torque curve that goes with the a/f map. did u see it? was it smooth or erratic like the a/f?
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To be honest, i don't think the guys knows what he is doing. In Hong Kong there are only one or two good tuners and this was one of the better ones. I do not have a torque curve which is wierd. I will go again sometime soon though and speak to them about plotting the torque curve, correcting the A/F after I have installed the Apexi Filter. They did say the standard B16A airbox was a striction even with a K&N.

Thanks
Brian
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