K20 costing and requirements


one way to keep costs down is to have a good friend who is american and can ship all your parts over for free. So no shipping or import taxes :)
 
Why not jus go B20?

because unless you spend mega bucks they don't rev as high, generally don't last very long and rarely produce more power than a B18C with bolt ons albeit there is a bit more torque lower in the rev range. you'll spend the cost a k swap doing a decent B20 build and it won't produce as much torque as the k20 nor is it likely to be as reliable

the EKK2 mounts are a good idea as it means that the driveshafts are at a better angle than if you use the others with the stock ek9 subframe.
 
you'll spend the cost a k swap doing a decent B20 build and it won't produce as much torque as the k20 nor is it likely to be as reliable

Not striclty true.. My built B16b bottom end (more or less 2l) made 172lbft or 186lbft (at TDI north's dyno) pretty decent, for completely OEM top end eh? :nice:
 
the cost of your sleeved bottom end as opposed to a B20 from a crv or the like plus it's unlikely that your low rev-mid range torque was as good across the rev range. (pretty unusual that you didn't up the ante on the top end too which costs stupid amounts)

also wasn't your car running a ram air setup on ITB's?
 
the cost of your sleeved bottom end as opposed to a B20 from a crv or the like plus it's unlikely that your low rev-mid range torque was as good across the rev range. (pretty unusual that you didn't up the ante on the top end too which costs stupid amounts)

also wasn't your car running a ram air setup on ITB's?

I wanted to maintain a certain amount of reliability, which was pretty decent having said that.

Sleeves were, ~£400, machining was the hardest part (finding the correct company which could do them ~£450-550

My low torque was immense lol, 135 lbft @ 3,5k rpm and 140 @ 5,5k pre-vtec then 172lbft.

Was running itbs with a cold airfeed from the bumper which didnt reap any gain from a colder source as to the filter being in the engine bay.

EDIT: wow I just realised this is a new K-swap thread - how cool is that, haha.
 
So its hell alot of work time and minimum £5000 worth it pr not can't decide!
 
The main thing I want to know is do you have to cut part of the underside of the bonnet for the engine to fit with the bonnet closed?
Just don't fancy cutting my kevlar bonnet :/
 
I took a hammer to the underside of my oem bonnet, here is a pic of my Seibon where it was catching.

Undersidescuff.jpg

Underside1.jpg
 
so did mine, but the hose split after a week due to the pressure of the bonnet on it!
 
Took some better pics of where mine was catching the other day...

8574aca4.jpg


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16edb3b8.jpg


This is how I left the Seibon..

33a05713.jpg


4d52c0fc.jpg
 
Not too bad compared to the amount of cutting required for a k24 taller block
 
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