Would I benefit from stage1 Cams


Zen

Zen

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Joined
Jun 20, 2007
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My mods so far....Mugen Intake,5zigen 4-2-1 manifold,High flow cat, Mugen bpipe and Mugen Twinloop Muffler.
I want to go stage1 cam route as I don't really want the ecu changed with the extra cost of getting it tuned.

Would the Skunk2 Stage1 cams give me worthwhile gains over the stock cams and run with stock ecu?

Pro or tuner series ? Could I actually fail an mot due to fitting Pro series cams as Ive read these aren't as emissions friendly?

Finally, I've been quoted 3-4 hours labour to replace the cams (if the cam belt need removing and retentioning) Does this sound fair ?

Cheers
 
Any changes involving cams despite having the option of going from mild to wild will need remapping of the ECU to benefit the most.

Would it be safe to use a stage 1 cam with the stock ECU? It will probably be OK, but it would not be optimized and you won't experience the full benefits.

Pro cams are not for you in this case as they have been proven to be quite challenging to tune for inexperienced tuners.

The quotation for fitting the cams is fair. FWIW, since you don't want to change the ECU, I would start small and change the cam gears.
 
most stage 1 cams are stock type R copies in my opinion, like the skunk stage 1, blox a,crower, etc... if you already have type R cams, i would not use a skunk stage 1.
 
MFactory said:
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Pro cams are not for you in this case as they have been proven to be quite challenging to tune for inexperienced tuners.
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Click to expand...

I am curious as to why they prove any more difficult to tune. Maybe more time consuming at part throttle, idle, decel, etc....

Maybe if you are trying to tune a turbo motor for less lag, or something advanced.

Not saying you are wrong, just wanting to learn from your experiences.
 
the large primaries makes them difficult to idle properly at the usual 800+/- 50rpm on the USDM cars.

JDM ECUs for whatever reason idle at 1100rpm even when warm...but that's besides the point... :p

Zen, I would suggest going with gearing if that's a viable option to you.
 
blinx9900 said:
most stage 1 cams are stock type R copies in my opinion, like the skunk stage 1, blox a,crower, etc... if you already have type R cams, i would not use a skunk stage 1.
Click to expand...

I agree :nice:
 
I would go for a more aggressive cam & change the ecu, if you are going to do it at all, go all the way. As later you wont be happy with a stage 1 and you will have to do it all over again, meaning more expense for parts & labour.
 
If you dont plan to upgrade the valvetrain and Custom ECU, then you can't use Pro 1 series. Tuner 1 is something you can use. Pro 1 is the same top end as Stg 2 Tuner except its got a lot more bottom end and hard to tune from what I heard.

Tuner 2 was said to be a lot easier than Pro 1 to tune.

Anyway, if you want to do it cheap. Stg1 and valvesprings is a good mod. If you plan on getting a custom ECU, then you'll have a choice of going all out, or finely tune your stg1 cams.
 
Ok, so it seems any Stage1 cam I get will give me no noticable gains over my stock ek9 cams without a programmable ecu to fine tune.

If it's the case that I'd need an ecu I agree that I may as well buy Stage2 cams and go all out. Maybe some Toda spec b like this? Integra DC2 :: Log in

I'll look into the ecu type that my local tuner uses and the costs to buy and tune.

Alternatively I'll go with the gearing mod and forget the cam upgrade.

Thanks
 
hmm, I think TODA B is also hard to tune because of the large primarys like *ragingangel* said. My friends friend has TODA B in his DC2R, and says its **** below 3000rpm, not good for daily drive. Basically, bottom end will go. Thought you might like to know as its normal for large primarys...

Skunk Tuner 2 is highly recommended if you love the feel of your stock B16B, wild kick at Vtec point, small primarys easy to tune.

This might help you decide for your choice of use.
 
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