Wilwood 4 pots problem


I don't sell them, I just came up with the idea.

Tama actually fitted and tested one, so knows which parts to use, maybe he'll chime and say what bits he actually used. If not then I'll have a search tomorrow and see if I can find a suitable valve from a UK supplier.

Maybe I should start selling them actually, I reckon the VAG lads would like them as VAG cars tend to have hideously overboosted brakes...
 
i have steel stndard lines and s/s Flexi's

kozy that would be great mate awsome.

will get a brake stopper anyway me thinks am looking into getting a 1inch mc too .
 
My wilwoods feel good, they used to feel spongey, but I found rebleeding them after a weeks driving made a massive difference.

I too wouldn't mind a valve though :-D
 
"T" this into the existing hose running from the intake to the booster, but after the check valve on the hose. Adjust the amount of booster assistance by opening or closing the valve as you need.

JEGS Performance Products 23630 JEGS Adjustable Vacuum Relief Valve

55523630.jpg


You do not need to use this very one, but it is the smallest I could find.

This is a 15 minute project.

I use this to correct the "feel" of the brakes, not help bleeding the system, FYI.
 
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i did understand that tama, i just thaught it mite help with pedal travel slightly?

because when the car is off i cant push the pedal to the floor ...

anyway cheers for that what about a T piece ? anything specific needed ?
 
Nice one Tam! Always a great input at the right time!

Is there a write up or anything for this?
 
Mallyauto86 said:
i did understand that tama, i just thaught it mite help with pedal travel slightly?

because when the car is off i cant push the pedal to the floor ...

anyway cheers for that what about a T piece ? anything specific needed ?
Click to expand...

The reason you can not push the pedal to the floor is because the booster is not functioning when the engine is off, yes the booster provides some serious torque to the system.

With the Kozy adjuster you can bleed off as much as you feel or as little as you feel.

... standard T fitting you can get at any corner automotive store, one that will fit your vacuum hose. $0.99 item.

Again, this may not actually help your pedal travel. This mod changes the feel, not travel. Kinda like having power steering assist or manual, it all works the same, the feel is different.

For me, I dialed in less vacuum to get to the feel I like, this allows me to modulate the pedal WAY better during aggressive braking allowing me a larger foot input with less actual stopping force, over using the Booster at 100%. I think I am at about 90% on booster power being used on my setup. May not be good for most, but I love it myself.

100% booster, to me with my setup, make the brakes feel way to touchy leading to flat spots on the tires.

At 90% I can feel in the pedal when the tires are reaching their limit.
This is the best I have come to describing this modifications feel on the system.
Sorry if its too wordie.

FYI, im using 4pot brembos with 12" disks...good stopping power!
 

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ok so i still need to change my MC basicly but this should be a good upgrade tp get a decent feel to the pedal. awsome.... the travel is the problem on my pedal really it only becomes stiff near the floor and if i push really hard i can hit the floor ofcorse i will never stand on the brakes when driving but yeah
 
Mallyauto86 said:
ok so i still need to change my MC basicly but this should be a good upgrade tp get a decent feel to the pedal. awsome.... the travel is the problem on my pedal really it only becomes stiff near the floor and if i push really hard i can hit the floor ofcorse i will never stand on the brakes when driving but yeah
Click to expand...

Drive then hell out of it for a week then redo the fluid as ASH referrs to, bleed all 4 corners too. If that does not work, upgrade the MC to a 1". If its too touchy after that, try the Kozy adjuster. That is the path I would take.
 
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Lastly, I am using a CTR booster.
Made this change when I did the 1" master upgrade in back 2000.
I moved from the standard Civic EX coupe booster
which was smaller than the CTR booster.
 
Did you allow all the fluid to drain out of the reservoir when you changed the callipers? I made this mistake once and after two days spent conventionally bleeding, vacuum bleeding and pressure bleeding it made f*ck all difference. The brakes felt exactly as you described. I then drove the car like that for two weeks and re-bled the system with instant results, the pedal was back to it's solid state. my will woods had a better feel on the pedal than the standard setup.

As said these brake servo pressure regulators will do absolutely nothing for the functionality of your brakes, they only reduce the assistance offered by the servo to change the feel at the pedal. Fitting one would only cover up the underlying problem
 
dan22h said:
as said these brake servo pressure regulators will do absolutely nothing for the functionality of your brakes, they only reduce the assistance offered by the servo to change the feel at the pedal. Fitting one would only cover up the underlying problem
Click to expand...

^^ ace! ^^^
Your setup should be working properly prior to the Kozy adjuster being added into the mix.
 
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Like i said in first reply im in the same boat.

Thanks a lot for you´re tips....i will take more milles on them and re-bleed the system if not work i will search for 1" mc and take off 15/16" oem.

Im feeling exactly the same as Mallyauto86 :)
 
I assume I'm quite likely to have the same issues when I get round to fitting mine then. Out of interest are the you running the oem EK4 rear set up or something that uses 260mm discs?
 
Clockwork, you'll have that issue. seriously don't even piss about just pit an ek9 master cylinder an servo on
 
When I upgraded to a set of AP brakes I needed the 1" master cylinder to make it work. I would def try that. You shouldn't get a spongy pedal tho, sounds like there's either air in the system or there is old "cooked" fluid in there. It will make your pedal spongy as has happened me before and took me ages to work out
 
robbyp said:
When I upgraded to a set of AP brakes I needed the 1" master cylinder to make it work. I would def try that. You shouldn't get a spongy pedal tho, sounds like there's either air in the system or there is old "cooked" fluid in there. It will make your pedal spongy as has happened me before and took me ages to work out
Click to expand...

Just a note, old fluid shouldn't really cause noticable sponginess, it just has a lower boiling point due to the water content it has absorbed from the atmosphere being a hygroscopic fluid
 
Fluid is new and did not let the fluid drain out i did a really quick swap only took the hoses off the old brakes when the others were fitted. i'm going to drive it as said then will ofcorse rebleed next weekend if that has not helped i've fount a 1inch MC with helper, from VTECperformance.

As for the rear i have not had chance to updrade yet but it is on the list but not yet i always felt the back end had too much braking power while i was on my standard brakes when i took the ABS fuse out the rears would always lock up first ... so i dont know yet...

So there we go i do understand the kozy thing, i think my pedal is not as spongy as before. it feels more progressive it just has a massive travel. going to go out for a drive later so will let you guys know what's the verdict
 
For now i have oem 240mm in car but have a set of ek9 rear calipers to upgrade. if the next weekend re-bleed works its fine to me but when install 260mm rears i will do mc upgrade
 
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