turbocharging an ek9 with b18..


T

turbodailydan

New Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
131
hi guys

im looking at getting an ek9 type r, having some fun on track with the N/A and then building up a turbo motor to drop in.. i have a few questions (sorry im new to these engine's and still soaking up as much info as i can :) )

it will be a daily used street car so looking at 300-400WHP at the moment. reliability is a big factor, as in my eyes power is worth nothing without it..

the plan is to get a b18 bottom end, forge it up and then put the b16b cylinder head on it..

what b18 engine code is the best to turbo?

what power can the stock sleeve's handle reliabley ?

what options are there for uprated sleeve's? (brands etc)

is there anything other than rods and pistons in the bottom end that need uprating for use with a turbo? is the crankshaft up to the job? stock honda oil pump? etc etc

if i use the b16b cylinder head, does anything need uprating? (ie valve springs etc)

what forged rods and pistons are recomended? and where from?

what brand head gasket and thickness?

uprated head studs needed? ARP? where from?



i will have many more questions so i do apoligies in advance :bow:
 
Honestly mate, if you are looking for an every day 300-400whp build then it is not going to be cheap...


First off i would suggest using a b20 bottom end, and then do lots of research as you are asking alot...

Have you even thought about management,or how you are going to put that much power down onto the road without spinning up the wheels??
 
well ive just come from having a 320bhp starlet gt which was my everyday car and had no probs, as it was built with reliability in mind.. the power of an engine is irrelivent to wether its to be used everyday or not, if its given regular servicing its no different to a stock engine.. :)
 
turbodailydan said:
hmm seems like not many people on here have built turbo vtec engines? :wow:
Click to expand...
I ? I'm one of the few.
It's really a money issue, when it comes to the turbo set up. To spare no expence, it will be a selection of one at a time items. Everyone could would agree that research makes it easy for the buyer.
If you are looking for a great DD and not to much crazy power go with a Gready full kit, t4 i would say, perhaps to start with just take on 5-8 psi. Now if you want some hella power go Turbonetics with Hondata S300 and 1000cc RC injectors and have one hell of a tune done. Your looking at well over 400 with an eagle rod CP piston and bearing upgrade plus 18 psi. It's all up to you. Like all other things money plays a hell of a roll. Like Wedgie said, he mentiond wheels. The power has to travel somewhere. Get a set of nice rubber don't becought without some rubbers.

Cube....
 
Last edited:
Cube said:
I ? I'm one of the few.
It's really a money issue, when it comes to the turbo set up. To spare no expence, it will be a selection of one at a time items. Everyone could would agree that research makes it easy for the buyer.
If you are looking for a great DD and not to much crazy power go with a Gready full kit, t4 i would say, perhaps to start with just take on 5-8 psi. Now if you want some hella power go Turbonetics with Hondata S300 and 1000cc RC injectors and have one hell of a tune done. Your looking at well over 400 with an eagle rod CP piston and bearing upgrade plus 18 psi. It's all up to you. Like all other things money plays a hell of a roll. Like Wedgie said, he mentiond wheels. The power has to travel somewhere. Get a set of nice rubber don't becought without some rubbers.

Cube....
Click to expand...


well the plan is to build a bottom end up (forged low comp pistons and rods, arp head studs, uprated gasket) and run hondata.. have been looking at AFI turbo kits, which seem reasonably priced.. just scoping out whats available at the moment really.. looking at running somewhere between 300-400whp, obviously start small and work my way up until happy with the power. wont be touching the cylinder head or cams, as i want to retain some drivability. but like i say ive had high powered starlets and a couple of gti-r's pushing over 400bhp and they were my daily drivers..

yep money sure does play a roll, i wont be cutting any corners, and i know traction will be an issue but then thats always the way when modding a fwd car :p but theres way of improving that, so its not too much of an issue. :)

what im trying to find out now is do most people uprate the sleeves, and is there any other part in the bottom end that needs uprating, other than the rods and pistons? the crankshaft will be lightened and balanced too, nothing major.

your input much apreciated chaps. :nice: thanks - dan
 
what b18 engine code is the best to turbo?
does not matter if its balanced and assembled properly, i personally like the b18c4 and b18c1 because of the crank girdle, a b16a is also a nice choice.

what power can the stock sleeve's handle reliabley?
about 450whp, some have pushed them to 500whp but i personally would stop at 450whp max, i would feel extremely safe at 400whp, i would worry about rpm more than power on the stock sleeves at the 400whp level.

what options are there for uprated sleeve's? (brands etc)
erl/golden geagle/darton/benson/aebs theres A LOT.

is there anything other than rods and pistons in the bottom end that need uprating for use with a turbo? is the crankshaft up to the job? stock honda oil pump? etc etc
Everything else is fine as long as its all built properly, you will obviously need new bearings, a new OEM oil pump may be a good idea if yours is old.

if i use the b16b cylinder head, does anything need uprating? (ie valve springs etc)
nope.


what forged rods and pistons are recomended? and where from?
Pistons: Ross, Wiseco, JE, CP, etc... any will handle the job as far as Rods: Eagle,Manley,Oliver,Crower etc... The Eagles are the cheapest and have been proven to hold over 600whp so i would just go with those.

what brand head gasket and thickness?
OEM Honda.

uprated head studs needed? ARP? where from?
ARP.

Well i hope that answers your questions :nice: I personally am on my third motor and second turbo setup so i do speak from experience. My current setup uses b18a/b pistons on factory b16a rods with factory sleeves with a b16b head, its holding 333whp nicely and thats with crappy 91octane fuel.
 
Last edited:
:clap: thats great matey thanks. ive used wiseco's a few times and found them to be good pistons, quiet on cold starts as far as forged pistons go.

so...

wiseco low comp pistons
eagle rods
arp head studs
gen honda head gasket/or uprated
lighted balanced crank/rods/flywheel
new gen oil pump
new gen crank bearings
AFI turbo kit or something like that..
hondata ecu

and what about clutch? whats the most user friendly for everyday use but still strong enough to hold the power? i was running an ACT extreme paddle clutch in my starlet and that wasnt to bad for everyday use as far as paddle clutches go

thanks again for the info :bow:
 
wiseco low comp pistons Yes
eagle rods Yes
arp head studs Yes
gen honda head gasket/or uprated No, only use OEM head gasket
lighted balanced crank/rods/flywheel No, do NOT lighten OEM crank, only balance if needed by a highly skilled mahinest
new gen oil pump Yes
new gen crank bearings Yes
AFI turbo kit or something like that.. Yes, consider the GT turbo upgrade
hondata ecu Yes, or what ever else your tuner likes

As far as clutches go its really too subjective to comment on, ACT has at least 3 or 4 pressure plates they offer with each kit which will have a dramatic affect on what you consider "drivable". I personally went with a custom clutch built by clutch specialties using a 1800lb pressure plat and 4 pad rigid disc and 11.5lb flywheel, it goes in tomorrow, i will let you know how i like it ;)
 
top man :clap:

one last question, regarding the b18 bottom ends.. whats the difference between the engine codes, and what makes one better for turbo'ing than the others?

i will have more questions im sure buddy so i will be picking your brains again at some point if you dont mind :bow: apreciate it :nice:
 
Wedgie said:
Honestly mate, if you are looking for an every day First off i would suggest using a b20 bottom end, and then do lots of research as you are asking alot...
Click to expand...

From what I remember, B20 has thin, relatively weak sleeves so I wouldn't use them.
 
turbodailydan said:
top man :clap:

one last question, regarding the b18 bottom ends.. whats the difference between the engine codes, and what makes one better for turbo'ing than the others?

i will have more questions im sure buddy so i will be picking your brains again at some point if you dont mind :bow: apreciate it :nice:
Click to expand...

I pretty much gave my opinions on the engines in my first post :nice:
 
A mate of mine had his crx on the rollers today,


360bhp 266lbs/ft @ 12.8 psi..


The car is meant to be an animal,and it aint even finished yet :clap::clap::clap::clap:

Im getting a spin in it @ the weekend,cant wait ..God knows what it will be like by the time TOTB comes around
 
Very impressive Darton flange lined B16A block, welded coolant flowed block guard etc - built to handle 500+HP
Stock crank micropolished
Eagle Rods
Wiseco pistons
ARP Top/Bottom stud set set
King main bearings & Thrust washers
King Big ends
New water pump and modified oil pump
B16 head with B18C4 cams & followers etc
B16 HKS cast manifold modified by Reyland to take Tial 44mm external wastegate
Mark spec Cossie style Garret T35 turbo with stainless teflon lined oil feed
550cc injectors fed by B&M FPR monitored by B&M gauge
Mocal thermostatic oil cooler
Mark patented oil breather PCV system, with exhaust scavenge and extra front vents
NGK CC spark plugs
8.5mm Magnecor leads
Spal fans
Full OBD1 conversion, Dizzy harness, and ECU harness by Mark
Hondata with full nitrous control, Datalogging and G sensor
Motorola 3 bar Map sensor
Pipercross air filter, Samco induction pipe & cold air shroud
Baily DV24 dump valve
Racelogic traction control
Front mount intercooler with SFS silicon pipework and aircraft hose clamps
Haywood and Scott full stainless 3-inch exhaust system from Turbo back, including PCV scavenge pipe

Wizards nitrous kit with 30hp shot to keep things cool



Thats a teaser
 
Wedgie said:
Well when you have already won at TOTB using them,why change???
Click to expand...

F/I is well over rated, lol

N/A's best :win:

on a serious note mate, u need to decide how far you wana go with the care & what your going to use it for then take it from there. you can go absolutly crazy & get massive power but no point if you cant put it down.
 
yep ive built a couple of high powered front wheel drive motors over the years and i find that 300-400 is about as far as id want to go, to be able to still make use of the power.. (even if it is only from 3rd gear onwards LOL)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top