Strut brace help!


ShaunEk9

ShaunEk9

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
857
Right guys, my ek9 is running a b18c4 lump with a rep of the skunk2 inlet, thing is my strut brace doesn't fit anymore as the inlet sits high!!
Any recommendations on what strut brace I could use on it?
Thanks
 
That's strange, never known anyone else to have that problem. What mounts you using?
 
Standard mounts. I thought it was strange. Ill have a proper look when I go get my car
 
strut brace should fit fine mate!

no offence in this but are you sure the inlet manifold is on properly ?
 
You have it on back to front :D They hit mani if wrong way round.
Dunx
 
After getting my car back today, the strut brace actually doesn't fit :/ map sensor is in the way
 
I didn't have the stock strut brace fitted in my EK4. Never seemed to make much difference if I'm honest.
 
Kozy is correct, I hate to say because I like that look.
If the front strut bar is not welded to the towers it will not work as intended.
Its bling.

Be different and leave it off. :p
 
I like the look too. It is however largely unnecessary weight in the worst place to have unnecessary weight - above and in front of the center of gravity. OK, it's only a small weight, but every little helps...
 
Both my cars its been taken off. Yeah, its a cleaner look. As Kozy refers to, weight is weight, less is better in a car.
 
tama666 said:
As Kozy refers to, weight is weight, less is better in a car.
Click to expand...

Weight is better in some places than it is others.

Weight above the CG is bad, weight below it is OK. The more weight below it, the lower the CG is.

Weight in front of the CG is bad, weight behind it is OK. The further back you add weight, the more you move the CG rearwards.

Weight above and in front (bonnet/strut brace) is really bad, weight below and behind (boot/floor area) is actually kinda good. When autotesting and on track, I always kept my tank full and the spare wheel in place for this reason.

I'd happily add a heavy aerodynamic flat floorplan for instance. Low slung weight stretching right out to the back of the car helps to lower the CG and move it rearwards, it would benefit the handling more than the increased weight would harm it.

Obviously the power/weight ratio is affected, but you can always add moar powaaarz! :dance:
 
Kozy said:
Weight is better in some places than it is others.

Weight above the CG is bad, weight below it is OK. The more weight below it, the lower the CG is.

Weight in front of the CG is bad, weight behind it is OK. The further back you add weight, the more you move the CG rearwards.

Weight above and in front (bonnet/strut brace) is really bad, weight below and behind (boot/floor area) is actually kinda good. When autotesting and on track, I always kept my tank full and the spare wheel in place for this reason.

I'd happily add a heavy aerodynamic flat floorplan for instance. Low slung weight stretching right out to the back of the car helps to lower the CG and move it rearwards, it would benefit the handling more than the increased weight would harm it.

Obviously the power/weight ratio is affected, but you can always add moar powaaarz! :dance:
Click to expand...

weight is weight, you can move it around all you want, weight takes away from performance. Balance in a car is achieved with weight, but the same balance can be achieved in a lighter car. just say'n
 
tama666 said:
weight is weight, you can move it around all you want, weight takes away from performance.
Click to expand...

It's easy to lose weight from low down and far back though. Not easy to lose it high up and up front.

But if you think that losing 50kg and shifting the CG upwards and forwards in the process works for you, who am I to argue. :))

I just know mine drove better with a full tank and the spare wheel in the boot (about 40-50kg total).
 
Kozy said:
It's easy to lose weight from low down and far back though. Not easy to lose it high up and up front.

But if you think that losing 50kg and shifting the CG upwards and forwards in the process works for you, who am I to argue. :))

I just know mine drove better with a full tank and the spare wheel in the boot (about 40-50kg total).
Click to expand...

to that, I would add a rear wing and loose 1/2 tank and the spare wheel would be what I recommend. dead weight is dead weight...
 
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