Ok...so let me summarize this:
- You need to adjust your geometry for maximum cornering grip/speed
- Then you want the softest springrates at which your geometry doesn't turn into positive camber under the hardest cornering situations. Because higher springrates creates more slip angle.
Yes that's one way to look at it, and you definately need to set up the geometery to get the most out of any suspension set up. Simply lowering and stiffening will not get the best out of it.
Also:
- Weight transfer doesn't play as big a role in cornering as slip angle and geometry; pushing geometry beyond it's optimum settings is a bigger problem than some more weight shifting. But it's still all about balance.
- And you actually wouldn't need arb's on the ideal road right? You could create the same effect with higher springrates but still have independent suspension and not have lifted wheels in the corners
Weight transfer is something I do not know a great deal about unfortunately, but the one fact I do know is about the the effect on geometery, and also having the weight bouncing from side to side on a soft sprung car is not conducive to a well balanced car.
And I think you have a point on the ARBs, as essentially they do link the wheels together, the stiffer the bar, the less independant the wheels on the axle are. They are a compromise design to allow the fitment of softer springs for ride comfort.
Summary of summary:
- Biggest emphasis is on geometry and slip angle when setting up suspension, but don't forget other factors.
Are these all right?
Yes, but don't get the impression I am saying increasing slip angle is a bad thing (as I think you are). Remember that the whole principal can work in your favour. A softly sprung car will build slip angle slowly, and so turn in and repsonsiveness will be slower as a result. So it might not understeer, but by the time the tyres have decided to respond and create cornering force, you could be beyond the corner! (Over exaggeration) This is another reason I forgot to mention in favour of fitting hard springs.
I know that in between driving my EK and my girlfriends Ford Ka, when I turn the wheel in mine, the car changes direction instantly. In hers, I turn the wheel, the car wallows, the nose dips down, and then it turns.
Hers is still good fun to drive with soft suspension, but it is never going be as responsive as mine.
The point is, you can safely fit harder springs without creating boat like understeer, you simply have to find the right balance between front and rear rates. Keep the balance the same as stock, and the over/under steer situation should be the same as stock, but the whole car will be more responsive to inputs.
Forgive me not making much sense on this, I know all the theory in my head but writing it out has never been my strong point!