SPOON ECU!!! It actually works!


You forgetting that he had R888s when he did the 14.4?
 
888s will not do anything for speed in a straight line, infact, they may slow you down a little
 
Ah, see what I mean ;)

@Dunsy: not true afaik, you can put your power to the ground way better. No slip = no loss of speed/time. With my G-Tech Pro RR the best times you get are with very little or no slip (but at the limit of your grip). Between a good and bad start there can be as much as 2 seconds.
 
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Dunsy said:
888s will not do anything for speed in a straight line, infact, they may slow you down a little
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Decently warm, so not true lol.

My mates did a 13.5 in his JRSC ep3 on r888's and a 14.00 with toyo proxies.

And John(J700ock) did his best time 14.4 on r888s too iirc.
 
I Know slicks/semi slicks are slightly slower on straights on the track, maybe the Drag strip is different i dunno...
 
Same idea to why slicks/semi slicks are better on track Duns, more traction!!!!

If you get the tyres warm before you launch, will get loads more traction off the line

Overinflate the rears to help negate the extra drag caused by the sticky tyres, OR even better run standard road tyres on the back and R888 up front

****, why am i giving constructive input about the 1/4 mile, straight line racing is boring as hell :nono:
 
689R said:
You forgetting that he had R888s when he did the 14.4?
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no not forgetting he had r888s on but when i was there with him it was prada spec 2 he had on and a track that was wet in the morning and dryed out in the afternoon and he put in a 14.5 so was still on road tyres at this point. so the ecu still gained him a good bit of time no matter what
 
So many people like revving the stanard engines so high... when I strip engines down that have been run like that theyre out of round at the top of the cylinders and the sideloading is simply excessive which is the cause of this.

It may all sound cool that it lets you rev to that rpm but in reality the engine isnt built to take thsat for any lengthy time.
 
A spoon ecu is a generic setup, its designed to work on a broad range of set ups. it WILL over fuel and have a more aggressive ignition map to make it "feel" wild. But in reality its more than likely far from perfect.

Im not sure of the avergae price of a Spoon ecu, but a socketed, chipped and tuned Ecu would probably be less money and could be tuned to suit your indivicual mods etc.

An Obd1 conversion harness can be had for less than £100, couple that with a P28/P30 socketed ecu and some one to tune it on crome/ectune etc would be the better option.

Vtec points can only relly be set properly after a car has been on the dyno. as this is the only way to find out the exact point its needed.

When i tune vtec cars on the dyno we run the car up with vtec very high say 7k, then another run with vtec very low ie 3k, than over lay the high and low graphs and you will see a seamless curve where low cam and high cam join to make a seamless transition, its at this point vtec should be set, this will then give a smooth cross over into vtec, the fuel and igntion curves can be tweaked to allow for a virtually un-noticable cross over (as it should be)

As for revving high ie past the peak power other than putting strain on the motor (as EK9turbo said) its pointless, The only reason i can think of to rev past peak is to allow the change up to drop your revs into a prime torque range. (but with out seeing that on a dyno you would never know)

road tuning can be had for as little as £150 and dyno tuning starts at £300 for what its worth through our selves.

Daz
 
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You couldnt spend £1000 on a Hondata S300 being setup then sell it for the same money at any point later in time.

Spoon ECU...£400, plug it in, enjoy it for however long, unplug, sell it for the same money.

I dont disagree with you that a individual map is better than the generic spoon ECU, but for the simplicity and ease and value for money of the spoon ECU you cant get much better
 
It's easier, yeah. But not cheaper. You don't need a Hondata S300. Two options:

- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune done by someone else: 150 quid

That make 250-270 quid.

Other option is to do everything yourself, gain a lot of knowledge an have the ability to do your own tunes, which is handy if you want to change anything on your engine. Cause you can do it yourself without any additional costs.

- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune package from xenocron.com (wideband, EPROM emulator for realtime programming, USB datalog cable) for 370 quid

That makes 470-490. So for less than 100 quid more you can start doing your own tunes.
- When you have to do a second tune you already spent less money than having it done
- You can tune any other Honda you might get, with OBD0, 1 or 2 and b-series or d-series
- You can start tuning other cars when you have the needed knowledge and earn everything back + more
 
_JT said:
It's easier, yeah. But not cheaper. You don't need a Hondata S300. Two options:

- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune done by someone else: 150 quid

That make 250-270 quid.

Other option is to do everything yourself, gain a lot of knowledge an have the ability to do your own tunes, which is handy if you want to change anything on your engine. Cause you can do it yourself without any additional costs.

- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune package from xenocron.com (wideband, EPROM emulator for realtime programming, USB datalog cable) for 370 quid

That makes 470-490. So for less than 100 quid more you can start doing your own tunes.
- When you have to do a second tune you already spent less money than having it done
- You can tune any other Honda you might get, with OBD0, 1 or 2 and b-series or d-series
- You can start tuning other cars when you have the needed knowledge and earn everything back + more
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Spot on, Thats how i got started in tuning, did my car then a mates car, and over the years got good at it and we know ofer it as a service.

Daz
 
EK9turbo said:
So many people like revving the stanard engines so high... when I strip engines down that have been run like that theyre out of round at the top of the cylinders and the sideloading is simply excessive which is the cause of this.

It may all sound cool that it lets you rev to that rpm but in reality the engine isnt built to take thsat for any lengthy time.
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Don't dissagree, however the extra rpm's will OCCASIONALLY help me out on track when i need to hold a gear. Just cause it has a rev limit of 9k does NOT mean i will be using it. If the engine is not making power why for god sake continue to rev the nuts off it!!!

Daz81 said:
A spoon ecu is a generic setup, its designed to work on a broad range of set ups. it WILL over fuel and have a more aggressive ignition map to make it "feel" wild. But in reality its more than likely far from perfect.

Im not sure of the avergae price of a Spoon ecu, but a socketed, chipped and tuned Ecu would probably be less money and could be tuned to suit your indivicual mods etc.

An Obd1 conversion harness can be had for less than £100, couple that with a P28/P30 socketed ecu and some one to tune it on crome/ectune etc would be the better option.

Vtec points can only relly be set properly after a car has been on the dyno. as this is the only way to find out the exact point its needed.

When i tune vtec cars on the dyno we run the car up with vtec very high say 7k, then another run with vtec very low ie 3k, than over lay the high and low graphs and you will see a seamless curve where low cam and high cam join to make a seamless transition, its at this point vtec should be set, this will then give a smooth cross over into vtec, the fuel and igntion curves can be tweaked to allow for a virtually un-noticable cross over (as it should be)

As for revving high ie past the peak power other than putting strain on the motor (as EK9turbo said) its pointless, The only reason i can think of to rev past peak is to allow the change up to drop your revs into a prime torque range. (but with out seeing that on a dyno you would never know)

road tuning can be had for as little as £150 and dyno tuning starts at £300 for what its worth through our selves.

Daz
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We are getting very off subject!

Do you have any evidence to back up this comment?

"A spoon ecu is a generic setup, its designed to work on a broad range of set ups. it WILL over fuel and have a more aggressive ignition map to make it "feel" wild. But in reality its more than likely far from perfect."

Are we not all forgetting that Honda and EVERY other car/motorcycle manufacture use ONE generic map for each car or bike made. They don't remap every single one to suit geometric changes within the engine???

If Spoon use this ECU on there cars and is mapped to there parts it has to be benefical in some way particularly if your using there parts.... as i am! This will be backed up with a DYNO before and after stock v's spoon this arguement needs to stop!

I've not disputed that a custom map is not better, and even stated i would NOT buy a generic ECU new. Complete waste of money. However second hand prices are good and its convenient.

You are absolutely correct with laying 2 runs on top of each other to establish vtec point. However the stock ECU changes very violently and the spoon has smoothed that. I'm looking for a lower VTEC point to keep me in VTEC when i have to short shift or accidently shift early on track. Waiting for it to cross back over is a right pain.

Dunsy said:
I dont disagree with you that a individual map is better than the generic spoon ECU, but for the simplicity and ease and value for money of the spoon ECU you cant get much better
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Very much agree with you Ross!
 
It maybe isn't the best way to a better ECU, although better than stock, but it IS the easiest and fastest and then it becomes a matter of everyone his own (I believe, English is not my native language :D ).
 
_JT said:
It maybe isn't the best way to a better ECU, although better than stock, but it IS the easiest and fastest and then it becomes a matter of everyone his own (I believe, English is not my native language :D ).
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I understand what your saying, but this thread was never about custom maps just how i felt the Spoon ECU performed. Its not suppose to be a debate! :lol:
 
We could let the topic die, or we could have a debate about how it works, personally I don't see the harm in it :) I'd still love to see a direct comparison against the stock ECU. What would that cost? Maybe we could put some money together with a few persons and you could take it to the dyno for a comparison.
 
_JT said:
We could let the topic die, or we could have a debate about how it works, personally I don't see the harm in it :) I'd still love to see a direct comparison against the stock ECU. What would that cost? Maybe we could put some money together with a few persons and you could take it to the dyno for a comparison.
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I like that idea mate! Contributions would get it done quicker:thanks:

I will get some prices, i imagine it will be arround the £50 mark for some dyno runs. Then irrespective of numbers we'll be able to see a direct comparison,AFR and determin the shape of the graph.
 
_JT said:
It maybe isn't the best way to a better ECU, although better than stock, but it IS the easiest and fastest and then it becomes a matter of everyone his own (I believe, English is not my native language :D ).
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I love the dutch !! Sums up three pointless pages of irrelevant debating perfectly there. Couldn't agree with you more!
 
Alright, then I assume you're in for a bit of donating to compare the ECU'? :p Who would want to contribute to it? If we could get 10-15 persons, then it won't cost that much.
- _JT
 
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