Sorry I have to ask what would you build!
- Thread starter bosniacrx
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From what we've been discussing so far, will be a 2.0l with S2 Pro 2's and Performer-X IM. Will probably take Blinx up on his offer and go for the GE-built block as well. Of course, there will be other special parts added to complete the full package, but this should hit low 12's no problem.
Of course, the main ingredient to all of this though is TUNING, but unfortunately, there really isn't anything I can do about this short of flying out to Bosnia
Of course, the main ingredient to all of this though is TUNING, but unfortunately, there really isn't anything I can do about this short of flying out to Bosnia
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You mentioned the suspension is quite new, but is it a new DRAG suspension? Suspension is all crucial to your launch, both blinx and myself recommend the PIC drag rear coilovers, you only have to buy two. But some real drag radials will do more for your launch than anything else.
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I have talked with tuner about all this. He tuned this civic:
King of Europe
StockStreet 12sec:
1. Gregor Tus - Honda Civic - Frankie or H22 I think. He has both setups.
2. Franck Clemendot Opel Kaddett
3. Lasse Nielsen - Fiat Uno Turbo
Guy is in Slovenia 1000 km from me.
King of Europe
StockStreet 12sec:
1. Gregor Tus - Honda Civic - Frankie or H22 I think. He has both setups.
2. Franck Clemendot Opel Kaddett
3. Lasse Nielsen - Fiat Uno Turbo
Guy is in Slovenia 1000 km from me.
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Dear friends, i got green light today to buy basic setup. Not all parts that I need but basics, and I am very thankful for you support Blinks, Stephen and others.
Thanks.
I have to wait for the paper work, they need to make contract to agree on.
After that first thing - Block done by GE.
Thanks.
I have to wait for the paper work, they need to make contract to agree on.
After that first thing - Block done by GE.
blinx9900
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oh ok, thats fine then, those should be big enough
bosniacrx you are going t tow the car to the tuner correct?
RagingAngel
本田 Gearing Authority
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If you're staying NA with intention of pulling as much power as you can... you need a new header to replace the Vibrant....side exit? Well only if you don't plan to drive this on the street any longer. Is this a full out drag car now?
As discussed before in our email to you, you should get lighter rods too. Eagles are great econo-rods and offer up great strength due to their construction, but maxi-lites from crower are ideal here.
Just make sure if you go 2.0L, you run an ATI damper too, or at least the stock crank pulley. I'm leery of running LS/VTECs with no block girdle - but then again I literally do 9000rpm all day long on a circuit course and not just 20 seconds at a time (burn out, run and "cool down")
Who is porting the head? What are the current spring rates on your suspension kit? Which Kayabas are you running?
If it's a full out drag car, I'd run the 9.0inch rotors up front and 4 lug and bolt-on some proper slicks to hit those pesky 1.6x 60ft times. Do you have a minimum weight requirement?
As discussed before in our email to you, you should get lighter rods too. Eagles are great econo-rods and offer up great strength due to their construction, but maxi-lites from crower are ideal here.
Just make sure if you go 2.0L, you run an ATI damper too, or at least the stock crank pulley. I'm leery of running LS/VTECs with no block girdle - but then again I literally do 9000rpm all day long on a circuit course and not just 20 seconds at a time (burn out, run and "cool down")
Who is porting the head? What are the current spring rates on your suspension kit? Which Kayabas are you running?
If it's a full out drag car, I'd run the 9.0inch rotors up front and 4 lug and bolt-on some proper slicks to hit those pesky 1.6x 60ft times. Do you have a minimum weight requirement?
blinx9900
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i agree with you about the rods but i suggested eagle to stay in the budget, you know how easy it is to go 4x over budget if your not careful, in regards to the ATI damper your right for drag its not a major as long as the crank and all other parts are balanced properly.
you really think the vibrant header will be a restriction? he has to have an exhaust system all the way back (i too suggested a side exit lol), i think worse case scenario he can just mod the collector to 3" to match the 3" exhaust he will be running.
RagingAngel
本田 Gearing Authority
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it's not the aspect of whether or not it's a restriction....then again I suppose it could be summed up as a restriction.
it's proper tuned length which will maximize the power potential. If all it took was to open up the collector for power production, we could just get away with hacking off the stock collector and then magically we'd have a header optimized for 240whp.
It just doesn't work that way.
Vibrant, Toda...I'm sure they will work very well for 1.8L motors not exceeding 210whp (approx 240bhp) but when you're hunting for 240+whp (270bhp) in a 2.0L...let's just say length and diameter of the tubing makes a big difference. It's no different than tuned intake lengths or properly designed intake manifolds (think Endyn here and why they only use Hytech)
it's proper tuned length which will maximize the power potential. If all it took was to open up the collector for power production, we could just get away with hacking off the stock collector and then magically we'd have a header optimized for 240whp.
It just doesn't work that way.
Vibrant, Toda...I'm sure they will work very well for 1.8L motors not exceeding 210whp (approx 240bhp) but when you're hunting for 240+whp (270bhp) in a 2.0L...let's just say length and diameter of the tubing makes a big difference. It's no different than tuned intake lengths or properly designed intake manifolds (think Endyn here and why they only use Hytech)
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Our intention is to make full drag car. Due to restricted budget we have to leave vibrant for now.
I will ask blinx how much additionaly will cost crower to this build, and try to find funds. I have to make block as much good as possible, that is thing I can not make here, bolt on part are easy on the other side, wait for money and buy.
You are right it is definitely good thing i will buy. Well I hope to run 12 sec at the time!
No one but from all b16 heads, the one I have is B16b head, maybe the best one.
Ultra SR Kayabas.
1.4"/1.2" Eibach Pro KIT
There is no minimum weight requirement. I have striped the car. will make fiber hood soon. will try to make it as light as possible.
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To be clear on this I have 10000 $ to spend, including shipment, and taxes.
The list came down to:
1. GE block bored to 2.0 which is now most important to give as much quality and lightness as it can
2. S2 Cams pro2, springs, retainers
3. RC 440 injectors
4. Hondata + P28
5. Performer X or S2 Pro intake
6. ACT F1 Racing Clutch
7. AEB Throtle body
_________________
8. MFactory I (3.070) gear
_______________________________________
This is 10156,80 $
I have:
9. Fidanza flywheel
10. Walbro pump
11. MFactory Final drive
Because I can make block only in States and not here, and because it is most expensive i find it most important for me.
Thank you guys for your suggestions, i really appreciate this.
The list came down to:
1. GE block bored to 2.0 which is now most important to give as much quality and lightness as it can
2. S2 Cams pro2, springs, retainers
3. RC 440 injectors
4. Hondata + P28
5. Performer X or S2 Pro intake
6. ACT F1 Racing Clutch
7. AEB Throtle body
_________________
8. MFactory I (3.070) gear
_______________________________________
This is 10156,80 $
I have:
9. Fidanza flywheel
10. Walbro pump
11. MFactory Final drive
Because I can make block only in States and not here, and because it is most expensive i find it most important for me.
Thank you guys for your suggestions, i really appreciate this.
RagingAngel
本田 Gearing Authority
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- Mar 26, 2008
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- 2,161
based on our experience with a 2.0L setup with a stock ITR ported head JUN 3 cams + 13:1 compression and a DC header with 2.5' collector. It was really hard to break 210whp.
Is it fair to say the header and ported head is worth 30whp?
Who knows, but back in 2002 when "everybody else" was running around with 240whp, it was easy to accept the 30whp "loss" when the header alone costs $1250 with a port job from portflow costing another $1000.00 with a grand total of about $2350.00 including shipping. The two major pieces of the puzzle that were missing.
This is with 31 pulls on the dyno trying pretty much everything possible. It's a shame we never did get a chance to fit the proper head and header on it, but later on this year, we may and we'll see if our suspicions are correct.
What does all this mean? Welp, I don't know what the condition of your track is like, but where we run, our track is known as the fastest in the west.
Mission Chamber of Commerce - Mission Raceway Park
Mission Raceway Park one of the continent's best, and fastest drag strip in all of Western Canada and the U.S. Northwest. The low elevation (24' above sea level) boosts horsepower, making it one of the fastest tracks. Sanctioned by the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA), Mission Rasceway features some of the quickest dragsters on the planet with speeds in excess of 270 mph.
With that said, we could "only" muster a 12.83
http://www.ek9.org/forum/53264-post28.html
Here it was in action.
Is it fair to say the header and ported head is worth 30whp?
Who knows, but back in 2002 when "everybody else" was running around with 240whp, it was easy to accept the 30whp "loss" when the header alone costs $1250 with a port job from portflow costing another $1000.00 with a grand total of about $2350.00 including shipping. The two major pieces of the puzzle that were missing.
This is with 31 pulls on the dyno trying pretty much everything possible. It's a shame we never did get a chance to fit the proper head and header on it, but later on this year, we may and we'll see if our suspicions are correct.
What does all this mean? Welp, I don't know what the condition of your track is like, but where we run, our track is known as the fastest in the west.
Mission Chamber of Commerce - Mission Raceway Park
Mission Raceway Park one of the continent's best, and fastest drag strip in all of Western Canada and the U.S. Northwest. The low elevation (24' above sea level) boosts horsepower, making it one of the fastest tracks. Sanctioned by the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA), Mission Rasceway features some of the quickest dragsters on the planet with speeds in excess of 270 mph.
With that said, we could "only" muster a 12.83
http://www.ek9.org/forum/53264-post28.html
Here it was in action.
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My opinion is that length of air intake tube and header design have really much impact on overall performance - power. I will sell Vibrant hopefully and use the money to buy Toda (HondaTech forum found compare diagram of headers and Toda made highest gain) or ANR, and just to mention Toda is 950 $ without shipment and tax which is more than 10% of all budget i have now. But lets see how much we will pull out with Vibrant.
As I can see, there is a little difference in setup:
You did not mention that Integra was completely naked?
Was your transmission stock? Hope to get some good accelleration gain.
You done tuning with stock fuel injectors and fuel pump. Maybe the fuel heated too much thus injecting with reduced density.
With old D series (D16z5) engine I run 15.9. It came idea to me to try to freeze the gasoline. I took big box and nylon garbage bags, poured water in bags, also I took canister of 10 liters of fuel and put in between. I waited couple of days till all water had friezed, put the box into trunk and on reserve went to race track. I run my car till i spent all gas. 2 min before driving I poured cold gas. My time was 15.5 !!! There was no change on the car in between.
Also You had stock intake.
Last time on the track my 1/4 mile was 14.1 sec.
Stock B16B and password jdm intake. Stock header with 3" exhaust.
ON Bad tires, and bad dirty track.
But from all this, I have to ask: 12.4 compression or higher, as I can get 100, 103 Vshell power fuel??
As I can see, there is a little difference in setup:
You did not mention that Integra was completely naked?
Was your transmission stock? Hope to get some good accelleration gain.
You done tuning with stock fuel injectors and fuel pump. Maybe the fuel heated too much thus injecting with reduced density.
With old D series (D16z5) engine I run 15.9. It came idea to me to try to freeze the gasoline. I took big box and nylon garbage bags, poured water in bags, also I took canister of 10 liters of fuel and put in between. I waited couple of days till all water had friezed, put the box into trunk and on reserve went to race track. I run my car till i spent all gas. 2 min before driving I poured cold gas. My time was 15.5 !!! There was no change on the car in between.
Also You had stock intake.
Last time on the track my 1/4 mile was 14.1 sec.
Stock B16B and password jdm intake. Stock header with 3" exhaust.
ON Bad tires, and bad dirty track.
But from all this, I have to ask: 12.4 compression or higher, as I can get 100, 103 Vshell power fuel??
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