Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by MotorMo, Nov 19, 2016.
Moto, where did you get these rims, I'm looking for some to put on my GA3.
Those rims are a hand down from a friend. They originally came on a Honda he bought some years ago. So I am unsure as to where you can get those today. They are Integra Type R rims, with a 4x100 bolt pattern. Your set may be out there waiting for you. Happy hunting.
They're original then? The gunmetal ones seem especially hard to find as OEM. There's a number of replicas, but ironically, they seem to be state-side, not in the land of JDM here in Japan, so I haven't been able to find them. I thought you might have had a hook up. Too bad.
I never knew how weak the 96-00 Civic motor mount set up was until I swapped out my stock D16y7 for the B18C1. Its been very obvious and annoying since the beginning of the build.
Shorty after the swap, I had to bend the A/C lines due to the power steering pulley trying to rub its way through. Sometime later, casing a noise upon acceleration, I noticed that the power steering belt was rubbing into the adjusting knob of the headlamp housing. Evidence of this was left by a white mark on the belt.
My engine is moving at least this much-
- no good.
So the journey started to strap the engine down, with out transmitting too much vibration into the cab of my ride. Believing that the weakest point of my mount set up was the Left upper mount, I set out to find the best "engine damper" I could find. Ingall's "Stiffy" fit the bill.
The product is amazing. Direct bolt on installment. Quality hardware. I'm finding its able to handle it own during 'hot laps'. There is no more vibrations in my car now than before the install. But the engine feels much stiffer.
The next step is to fit a Hasport transmission upper mount, to compliment the stiffer left side.
Upgraded the brake master cylinder and booster to a 99 spec Integra. The booster was huge compared to the old one. Almost comically so.
I needed only to shave down a bracket a bit for everything to fit as factory. The performance difference was huge with the now 1" cylinder squeezing the rotors (was 13/15").
Agreed very nice work MotorMo
Thanks guys. When you pour you life into your build, many smaller upgrades always get forgotten in all the years of work. Its nice to have a place where I can keep track of all the mods I've done haha. Always seems every mod creates the need for another mod to counter balance the new upgrade part. lol. Yup, I got car issues.
But she's finally starting to come together as a unit a bit more. Looking forward to balance out the front 24mm sway bar with a 22mm rear sway next month.
Today I fixed an area of my engine swap that has been bugging me from the start.
During the swap I learned that the GSR throttle cable didn't fit in my EJ6 chassis as it did in the GSR. I suspect this was due to different dimensions between the firewall, throttle body, and the pedal.
I was able to work around this by using a 'spacer' that consisted of two nuts stacked together. It worked like a charm sure, but who wants that there permanently?...
While at work, I noticed the throttle cable bracket on the 2001 CRV was very similar to my own. I sourced one up and sure enough it fits. It took the extra slack out of the cable as I was hoping it would. Finally able to get rid of those 'spacers' behind the bracket, cause after all its nuts.
First AutoX was this last weekend, and it was a great time. The days leading up to it were packed with last minute upgrades and long nights.
I installed an ASR rear brace and the EK9 rear sway bar about a week prior. I loved this combo due to its low bling factor.
With 18 hours before the race event, I was able to install the last brake upgrade from my Integra donor, the rear brakes. Using 2000 Civic Si E-brake cables, I left my existing trailing arms and swapped the Integra hubs, rotors, calipers, and hoses. I laughed at how small they look with my over sized tires.
On to the race to break in the brakes...
I was super impressed with the balance of the 'rotation' during the ins and out of the corners. Funny, seems I had the three wheel motion going on for most of the turns haha. Looks like I need to tune my suspension some more.
So this happened today...
Some times in between getting the real dream parts of my build, we tend to toy with left over parts laying around. Changed the color of the cluster bulb out put by cutting the plastic out where the light bormally shines through. I then glued a Transperant red film, that I got from a hobby store, over the new cut outs.
It turned out better than I expected. It lights the gauges and the needles red at night. Got my eyes on a EK4 cluster, but until then, this fit the bill.
Haha not bad for a little DIY job! you going for the full red cluster, or just the red needles one? quite rare over there right
After saving a few pennies I'll bee looking for an UKDM red on red in mph. With the EK9 CF back board, I think it'll look pretty nice.
They are some what rare over hear, but you can still get your hands on them. Seems Parts are getting harder and harder to source up. All the more reason to preserve such things. (car crazy).
The Si clusters out here are easier to come across. The 8,000 RPM Si redline is fitting, but it says "Si" on the gauge. And it doesn't feel right to have it in there. Plus the needles are more orange than they are red haha! America never sees the cool stuff
Doing some port matching on my stock GSR manifold. The castings weren't too far off, but every little bit helps on a NA build. Found it tricky to get the three pieces in a position where I knew the ported holes were going to stay 'true' when bolted back together- as the OD of the stud is obviously smaller than the ID if the bolt holes in the mani so it was easy to distort. But got it all sorted. Hope to do some work on all the intake plumbing soon.
I find that America has the better stuff to ours infact, you lot had climate control and double dins as standard, only the Ek9 and SIR came with those
UK civics are as basic as it comes hence why everyone's breaking the ek9s down here for their parts, shame though to break what are usually good or saveable ek9 and dc2s to put everything in a basic ek, I say that and I have ek9 and dc2 parts in my EK haha.
Good parts are also hard to come by over here too, everyone usually mods their cars over here with cheap replica tat now, about 5 years ago is when people took their build seriously.
The 'Honda scene' has taken a huge dip out here as well in the past 5 years. Seems only the die hard enthusiasts are all that is left. Out side from the youngsters scraping oil pans and bumpers seeing how low they can go.
Sounds like you guys did get a bit of the shaft from Honda. It seems that didn't slow you down much on your build tho haha. Your hatch is looking good man. Never stop.
That's it round here, cheap lows basically.
Thanks for the kind words, just taking my time with it, if I start going all out at once I will end up hating it and making mistakes.
HAHAHA!!!! So true. I spent 8 years building a DC2, but got tired of re-doing every thing that i had already done in my younger years.
I wanted a fresh virgin platform, so I sold the car to a friend I race against lol. I ran through a few Hondas before settling on this EJ6 hatch. Take your time and enjoy the journey.
Its been a while since I last updated this thread--
This month I am swapping out the GSR two stage manifold for a single stage. The obvious replacement was a Skunk2 manifold. Its "top of the line" , But when it arrived in the mail I found it was some what lacking in some very obvious ways.
For one thing, they installed the coolant passage from a Type R set up, which has two coolant ports, instead of my factory GSR single port.
So I figured best approach is to cap one of my existing coolant ports, and use the port on the manifold in the same manor as the Type R does.
There is a coolant port under the VTEC solenoid that connects a hose all the way back to the throttle body on the GSR head. This port serves the fame function as the new port in the manifold, so its got to be plugged. I think its going to look a lot cleaner after the install with out the lengthy hose drooping around the head.
I also found some of the casting in the manifold needed cleaning. So I got busy porting and making the radius of the casting was smooth.
Upon 'mocking up' the manifold to the head- I noticed that Skunk2 doesn't machine the upper holes for the studs. They drill them out, but due to the casting, the nuts for the upper manifold studs don't sit flush with their mounting point.
Really Skunk2...where's the quality control?.... Anyways, so I took the manifold to my machinist to have the mounting points machined flush.
Now the nuts can properly be torqued.
There is still much to do before I can turn key again- This includes re-doing the coolant plumbing on the back side of the head, and making a new wiring harness. I'll post as things progress.
I knew my engine had a lot of movement from the remaining stock motor mounts.
While I had had the intake off, I decided to finally buck up with the vibration and replace my rear mount with one of Hasports.
Super glad I did as upon inspection I found witness marks that showed me just how much my motor was flexing the crap out the stock mount.
All those years of replacing those rear mount in that tight area- I felt like I was cheating taking the intake manifold off first-She slipped right in.
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