Insane Oil Consumption

[Rich777]

Are you planning on replacing the stem seals with the head on ? There's a specail tool you can buy so you can replace the with the head on and the best thing is its piss easy to use. Have a little search on ebay for it, i can't quite remember what company makes it now but you should be able to find it.

Good luck, and i hope it is just that.

 

[Jimbo]

As he said. If it's dark smoke oil is being burnt. White smoke is your head gasket. Unlikely to be the head gasket though as you'd have over heating problems too. Piston rings or valve stem seals. Did you check the spark plugs for oil? Either way there's a oil leak going to the combustion chamber and this the reason for your oil consumption. I'd put my money on rings. They're known to go but not usually on that low of mileage but could be due to the gapping on the rings not being done properly

Gapping piston rings is to accomadate for thermal expansion not for controlling oil! That's the oil control ring! I did my stem seals and it was sorted! I had the same symptoms, it's worth a go mate! If I remember they cost me about £65 from Honda!

 

[Jimbo]

Are you planning on replacing the stem seals with the head on ? There's a specail tool you can buy so you can replace the with the head on and the best thing is its piss easy to use. Have a little search on ebay for it, i can't quite remember what company makes it now but you should be able to find it.

Good luck, and i hope it is just that.

Sealey tools do them! Cylinder compressor adapter and a single sided valve compressor! They work a treat!

 

[pimpinblackcivic]

head gasket might be the issue mate, any milkyness condesation etc in the oil cap? usually smoke out the exhaust and burning a lot of oil is signs of the gasket, expecially on an engine that has been rebuilt. worth a check mate.hope u find the problem

how would burning oil be a sign the h/g is away?

coolant would get into the bores before oil would....look at the makeup of a b series engine

 

[ijwhiteman]

Ah ffs mate! These B18 engines seem to be pretty siht with oil consumption.

Right

1st get a compression test done
2nd a leak down test! Absolutely vital!
3rd if it is valve stem seals check your guides! Mine where shot to siht and had 3mm of valve end play! (My oil problem) This is not mega bucks, guides are like £4 each and a machine shop will remove these for £50.
4th if its not the head then time to look else where hope its not your bottom end other wise your talking machine shop time and at the very least some fresh rings.

If you need to call me mate then do so i have been down EVERY possible avenue with mine and you know that! Don't blame the oil there is NO quick fix here i'm affraid!

Also worth changing your PCV valve just incase. These are £30 but its worth changing anyway.

 

[stevenEK9]

Ditch the PCV and run a proper breather, don't waste your money on a new PCV valve

Don't see what the argument is about oil, i've always used a decent 10w40 semi synthetic and consumption is not a problem at all for me

Looks like everyones given you plenty ideas Tim, hope you get to the bottom of it (

 

[DV8]

Thanks again guys, dropping it off at my mates garage for all the tests and checks tomorrow.

3rd if it is valve stem seals check your guides! Mine where shot to siht and had 3mm of valve end play! (My oil problem) This is not mega bucks, guides are like £4 each and a machine shop will remove these for £50.

Is it possible do change the guides with the head still on/engine in situe?

Steven, will take a look at a proper breather set up. Did you ever get a chance to take some pictures of yours?

Also one more question... if I do this with the head on, is it worth fitting uprated cams/springs/retainers or do most/all of these need higher comp to benefit?

 

[Barryl85]

Ditch the PCV and run a proper breather, don't waste your money on a new PCV valve

Don't see what the argument is about oil, i've always used a decent 10w40 semi synthetic and consumption is not a problem at all for me

Looks like everyones given you plenty ideas Tim, hope you get to the bottom of it (

I'm exact same here 10w 40 semi synthetic worked perfect on my B16a2 & B18C6 - both engines burned hardly any oil at all.

I took advice from oilman about using 5w 40 fully synthetic when i first got my VTi and my B16a2 burned the whole lot very quickly. Thought i had a problem there but it was actually just the oil was not suited for the engine at all.

 

[Barryl85]

Thanks again guys, dropping it off at my mates garage for all the tests and checks tomorrow.



Is it possible do change the guides with the head still on/engine in situe?

Steven, will take a look at a proper breather set up. Did you ever get a chance to take some pictures of yours?

Also one more question... if I do this with the head on, is it worth fitting uprated cams/springs/retainers or do most/all of these need higher comp to benefit?

Might be possible but you really want a machine shop to do the work and for that....

Head has to come off, and if you have the money you should do at the least springs / retainers as cams can be changed without head being removed and you need management and some cam pulleys.

You would just need to give the machine shop your head and the springs / retainers and get them to put new stem seals and valve guides in and they will do your springs / retainers while they are at it.

 

[ijwhiteman]

Thanks again guys, dropping it off at my mates garage for all the tests and checks tomorrow.



Is it possible do change the guides with the head still on/engine in situe?

Steven, will take a look at a proper breather set up. Did you ever get a chance to take some pictures of yours?

Also one more question... if I do this with the head on, is it worth fitting uprated cams/springs/retainers or do most/all of these need higher comp to benefit?

As barry says no your head needs to come off. A mild cam upgrade could be an option now but you will need management! Do your checks first before anymore speculation.

I'm exact same here 10w 40 semi synthetic worked perfect on my B16a2 & B18C6 - both engines burned hardly any oil at all.

I took advice from oilman about using 5w 40 fully synthetic when i first got my VTi and my B16a2 burned the whole lot very quickly. Thought i had a problem there but it was actually just the oil was not suited for the engine at all.

Its not that its not suited its that the 10w40 filled up the wear space in your engines. ANY good engine will not burn oil. Do not blame the oil. Just cause it burns with one and not the other is not the oils fault.

And it really bugs me how people keep passing comment on "well i used this oil and it was fine"??? Under what conditions and how where you able to check that? Any prolonged use of an inadequate oil will eventually result in engine damage or failure. It may not be visible or instantly recognisable! These expensive oils are there for a reason! And its very dependant on the intended use of the engine!

PEOPLE PLEASE STOP TALKING ABOUT OILS! Tim get your engine looked at simple as that! There are no quick fixes to oil consumption! I've tried them all in the last 2 years!

 

[Barryl85]

As barry says no your head needs to come off. A mild cam upgrade could be an option now but you will need management! Do your checks first before anymore speculation.



Its not that its not suited its that the 10w40 filled up the wear space in your engines. ANY good engine will not burn oil. Do not blame the oil. Just cause it burns with one and not the other is not the oils fault.

And it really bugs me how people keep passing comment on "well i used this oil and it was fine"??? Under what conditions and how where you able to check that? Any prolonged use of an inadequate oil will eventually result in engine damage or failure. It may not be visible or instantly recognisable! These expensive oils are there for a reason! And its very dependant on the intended use of the engine!

PEOPLE PLEASE STOP TALKING ABOUT OILS! Tim get your engine looked at simple as that! There are no quick fixes to oil consumption! I've tried them all in the last 2 years!

I never used the 5w 40 fully on my B18c6 just B16a2

50,000 mile fully honda serviced engine and your suggesting wear space?

The engine burned the oil - simple as, I kept topping up with 5w40 but it kept burning through it, until i changed my oil to 10w40 i was extremely unhappy and thought i had engine problems. I had used other fully synthetic oils and never had a problem.

I'd officially call that a quick fix !

 

[stevenEK9]

Tim is posting up regarding oil consumption in his engine, without sounding arsey, of course people are going to discuss oils

honda reccomend 5w30, so instantly he is using a different oil than that reccomended, as do most people

As for saying that using a basic oil will have prolonged affect on engine life, this is rubbish, most oil related issues are due to inadequate care to the engine (not allowing the engine to properly heat up for example) and service intervals (dirty oil, letting the engine run low on oil etc etc)

I'm not saying there isn't advantages to running fancy expensive fully synta oils, however you shouldn't believe everything you read

I used to run castrol GTX, but been hard to get local so now run mobil 1 pro 2000 (both 10w40 semi synta), have done for the last 28k miles. I also run a spoon ecu and rev it higher than the oem rev limit frequently on standard valvetrain, had this for about 15k miles now. engine is strong, burns almost zero oil. I don't for one see my engine as a ticking time bomb, am i going to change oil to fully synta because someone says it will be better? no

Sorry for the rant, but annoys me when people believe what they read too much

As bad as it sounds, i would hazzard a guess that it's your bottom end that has issues Tim, with no details of who carried out the work to the engine, for all you know the stroker kit could have been fitted straight into the block with no rebore/hone etc ( Cheap way to check the stem seals would be to whip off the inlet and exhaust manifolds, take a look in the inlet/exhaust ports for oily residue

 

[ijwhiteman]

I never used the 5w 40 fully on my B18c6 just B16a2

50,000 mile fully honda serviced engine and your suggesting wear space?

The engine burned the oil - simple as, I kept topping up with 5w40 but it kept burning through it, until i changed my oil to 10w40 i was extremely unhappy and thought i had engine problems. I had used other fully synthetic oils and never had a problem.

I'm not trying to cause arguement and debate but i'm getting very annoyed with persons making comment about oils ask the experts!

If its within the desired specifications for Honda it will work well! By this i mean 0w 30 5w 40 10w 40 bla bla and dependant on the temp range of the climate of course.

Did you own it for the entire 50,000miles? How was it run in? Did it ever get starved of oil? (Baffled sump) Do you know for certain it was spot on? What was the bore finsh like? Yes i am suggesting it had wear! An engine starts wearing the minute its turned over. Depending on its life depends on how accelerated that wear is! And FSH means jack if that engine had regular track visits and on Honda maintenance because the oil WILL have broken dwon long before it was serviced causeing accelerated wear.

Using a thicker oil covers up oil consumption but the problem will still be there. For most 10w 40 semi is more than adequate.

My B18C had 53,000 miles on the clocked and the valve guides and stem seals where shot to siht! I tried everything thicker oil different brands cooling etc etc etc 53k!!! That was all and The valves had 3mm of end play! Oil changed every 2000 miles... But how was it treated before i owned it!

 

[Barryl85]

I bought it off an older man who had a couple of hondas and was very **** about them, He gave me every receipt for the car even down to bulbs and wipers all in a ring binder everything punched and dated - he even shed a tear when i left with it.

I cant imagine he neglected the car and most definately didnt abuse it in any way.

You didnt suggest 'wear' you suggested 'wear space' your not gonna lose 1ltr of oil to wear space within every few to five hundred miles then be able to change oil to a semi synthetic brand and have a perfect non oil burning strong engine.

The 5w 40 fully synthetic was not suited to that engine whether it was the brand of oil i used who knows.

 

[DV8]

LOL I know it's not the oil in this case... It's using SO much it would unrealistic to blame the oil.

If the test results lean towards Valve Train issues we are going to change the seals first with the head still on. If that doesn't sort the problem we will take the head off and investigate the guides, at which point I will probably consider other mods too.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Tmus]

LOL, i suggested changing the oil because, if his engine was new then using such "thin" oil is not so good for the "wear in".

I have seen oil change a car's engine, from experience, so i thought why not give it a try.


BUT the 1st thing to do is a leak down test really.

 

[godfridge]

just to chip the engine in my car had the spoon stroker kit fitted too and it uses a fair bit oil if driven in vtec alot, and the exhaust does seem smokey but mainly when then engines cold and there is no cat too

dont think i use 1 litre every 50 mile, maybe 1 every 500.

1 litre to 50 miles is verrry bad!

 

[pimpinblackcivic]

I'm not trying to cause arguement and debate but i'm getting very annoyed with persons making comment about oils ask the experts!

If its within the desired specifications for Honda it will work well! By this i mean 0w 30 5w 40 10w 40 bla bla and dependant on the temp range of the climate of course.

Did you own it for the entire 50,000miles? How was it run in? Did it ever get starved of oil? (Baffled sump) Do you know for certain it was spot on? What was the bore finsh like? Yes i am suggesting it had wear! An engine starts wearing the minute its turned over. Depending on its life depends on how accelerated that wear is! And FSH means jack if that engine had regular track visits and on Honda maintenance because the oil WILL have broken dwon long before it was serviced causeing accelerated wear.

Using a thicker oil covers up oil consumption but the problem will still be there. For most 10w 40 semi is more than adequate.

My B18C had 53,000 miles on the clocked and the valve guides and stem seals where shot to siht! I tried everything thicker oil different brands cooling etc etc etc 53k!!! That was all and The valves had 3mm of end play! Oil changed every 2000 miles... But how was it treated before i owned it!

i remember reading your thread a while ago about your mystery oil problem - was it intake and exhaust guides that were shagged?

how did you figure that out? was the oil getting past the valve stem seal into the combustion chamber due to excess movement?

 

[Topher-EK9]

don't mean to jump on you rhtread but i am literally having the same problem.
i bought JDmarron' scivic EG6 SiR no offence to him he's a cool guy but i have spots of black over my bumper and it only smokes in Vtec but not until 7500rpm + sometimes its not until 8300 that it lets out a little puff. but i am going through a litre of oil in under 1000miles,
i'm gonna get a leak down test from a 3rd party so i know its a good test.
is ther such thing as performance valve seals, i have feels cams and valve train so maybe this is the weak part the valve seals.

if it is piston rings is this a rebuild?

as said mate odn't wanna jump on your thread just no point me starting my own thread as it is exactly the same problem.
If it is valve seals is this a rebuild of the head?

 

[689R]

if its not that much under 1000 miles thats not that bad. cheaper just continuing to buy oil than a rebuild