EK9 TURBO BUILD 423 BHP
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Leej8
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Closed Loop
In closed loop operation the ECU uses one or more oxygen sensors as a feedback loop in order to adjust the fuel mixture. This gives the name ‘closed loop’ from the closed feedback loop. The ECU won’t run in a closed feedback loop all the time, so ‘open loop’ is used to describe the operation of the ECU when the mixture is not being adjusted in this way (usually when the engine is cold or when running under high load).
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I know what closed loop means...
you still need to set base timing to match, I'd be pretty sure most tuners would recommend setting it at standard 16 deg
LORD WD40
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From doing a little research last night I have to use the 'Set Ignition Timing' command, the ignition timing will be set to exactly, enabling you to synchronize the distributor to the ECU rotating the distributor. The timing will be set
the selected value once the Set Ignition Timing window is shown, and will return to normal once the window is closed
the selected value once the Set Ignition Timing window is shown, and will return to normal once the window is closed
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Correct, you need to lock the timing in software otherwise it can correct up to +/- 5.25 degrees in order to try maintain the target idle. With the engine running and software open, hit F10 to start datalogging then go to "online" and select "set timing" a window will pop up and you can adjust the timing value you wish to lock it at. Default value will be 16 degrees. Once finished setting your distributor close the window and the timing lock is turned off.
LORD WD40
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Stupid Question again sorry. How do I get my laptop to connect to the ecu. So it reads rpm ect. Can't seem to get them to talk to each other
Leej8
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IS This Any Good
Now adjust your distributor until your at 16 degrees. Great, now check in your Hondata to make sure its BASE timing in the settings is 16 degrees, here is how to do that:
File-->Settings-->Vehicle tab---> Make sure its 16, and then hit OK. This is critical. You see, don't make the mistake of a rookie tuner by having the number in the Hondata different than the number on the distributor. Talk about confusing. Don't even think about starting without 16, and 16, I don't care who tells you otherwise. turbo, NOS, whatever, your doing it that way! DO IT! Because what these rookies didn't think of is that 99% of the time your driving around in less than 50% throttle and the reduction in timing due to the NOS, or Turbo, or Blower are not going to be needed until columns 6-10, for when your giving it alot of throttle. If you make the timing anything different than 16 in the Hondata, or on your distributor, your effectively throwing off your entire matrix of numbers. We want the numbers to stand for exactly what they came from the factory, at Honda, and go from there.
Ok, now we have the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1 at idle, and we have the timing at 16 degrees. That's excellent. Remember when i told you to rev it up and down a little before going to check the timing was at 16 degrees? Well now our work has paid off, and we are going to start to drive the car...Put the car in first gear and ease into it at a very low RPM, like 1500 or 2000. Drive it slowly up to like 3500 RPM and take note of the air/fuel ratio at light throttle up to 3500 RPM, if you did the first exercise right with the injector multiplier, your probably in the ballpark. Drive the car in say, 3rd gear, from like 1800 RPM to like 3500 RPM and try to hit all the columns between 2 and 6. This is your fuel economy area and attention must be paid to this area. If you are on a Dynapack, your going to have an easy time at this. Because you can lock in the computer at say 1750 RPM, and then you can give it throttle up to column 5 or so and it will stay at that RPM the entire way. So you just do it slowly, and deliberate, and make changes so your air/fuel is 14.7 up to column 5. Columns 6 will be 13.5:1 so just hit that column and stop there....making that last column 13.5:1.
then you do the same for 2000 RPM
then you do the same for 2250 RPM
then you do the same for 2500 RPM
then you do the same for 2700 RPM
then you do the same for 3000 RPM, you get the idea...you look at the Hondata program, and see what exact RPM, it has numbers you can change. And you tune to that exact RPM. Every other RPM in between is extrapolated from the last RPM and the current...so you want to be as accurate as possible and tune for the exact RPM's the unit you have displays.
Well pretty soon, your engine is loving it and your sitting pretty at 14.7 all the way up to column 5 at any cruising RPM. Say before 6k. Now take note of the cars responsiveness under these light throttle activities. When you give it a little gas, does the car feel responsive? If it does not you may require slightly more timing in these areas. Try adding like 2 degrees in areas you feel like it was not responsive, and see if it makes a difference. If it makes no difference, go back to the lower timing. If you put the timing up to high, and have a blower, or a turbo, and say its very hot outside, you might start detonatin
Now adjust your distributor until your at 16 degrees. Great, now check in your Hondata to make sure its BASE timing in the settings is 16 degrees, here is how to do that:
File-->Settings-->Vehicle tab---> Make sure its 16, and then hit OK. This is critical. You see, don't make the mistake of a rookie tuner by having the number in the Hondata different than the number on the distributor. Talk about confusing. Don't even think about starting without 16, and 16, I don't care who tells you otherwise. turbo, NOS, whatever, your doing it that way! DO IT! Because what these rookies didn't think of is that 99% of the time your driving around in less than 50% throttle and the reduction in timing due to the NOS, or Turbo, or Blower are not going to be needed until columns 6-10, for when your giving it alot of throttle. If you make the timing anything different than 16 in the Hondata, or on your distributor, your effectively throwing off your entire matrix of numbers. We want the numbers to stand for exactly what they came from the factory, at Honda, and go from there.
Ok, now we have the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1 at idle, and we have the timing at 16 degrees. That's excellent. Remember when i told you to rev it up and down a little before going to check the timing was at 16 degrees? Well now our work has paid off, and we are going to start to drive the car...Put the car in first gear and ease into it at a very low RPM, like 1500 or 2000. Drive it slowly up to like 3500 RPM and take note of the air/fuel ratio at light throttle up to 3500 RPM, if you did the first exercise right with the injector multiplier, your probably in the ballpark. Drive the car in say, 3rd gear, from like 1800 RPM to like 3500 RPM and try to hit all the columns between 2 and 6. This is your fuel economy area and attention must be paid to this area. If you are on a Dynapack, your going to have an easy time at this. Because you can lock in the computer at say 1750 RPM, and then you can give it throttle up to column 5 or so and it will stay at that RPM the entire way. So you just do it slowly, and deliberate, and make changes so your air/fuel is 14.7 up to column 5. Columns 6 will be 13.5:1 so just hit that column and stop there....making that last column 13.5:1.
then you do the same for 2000 RPM
then you do the same for 2250 RPM
then you do the same for 2500 RPM
then you do the same for 2700 RPM
then you do the same for 3000 RPM, you get the idea...you look at the Hondata program, and see what exact RPM, it has numbers you can change. And you tune to that exact RPM. Every other RPM in between is extrapolated from the last RPM and the current...so you want to be as accurate as possible and tune for the exact RPM's the unit you have displays.
Well pretty soon, your engine is loving it and your sitting pretty at 14.7 all the way up to column 5 at any cruising RPM. Say before 6k. Now take note of the cars responsiveness under these light throttle activities. When you give it a little gas, does the car feel responsive? If it does not you may require slightly more timing in these areas. Try adding like 2 degrees in areas you feel like it was not responsive, and see if it makes a difference. If it makes no difference, go back to the lower timing. If you put the timing up to high, and have a blower, or a turbo, and say its very hot outside, you might start detonatin
LORD WD40
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UPDATE
Timing issue sorted. Was 1 tooth out on a cam
Car was running fine till it dumped oil on the floor between the engine end gearbox
So then had to strip the gearbox off and found that the crank seal had failed.
Replaced with genuine honda and that solved the problem. But then the other side failed.
So yet again
Had to strip all the belts ect and replaced that one with a genuine honda one and seems to have done the job.
Not to self BUY GENUINE
fitted the breather pipes
Next step MOT then start running it in
Timing issue sorted. Was 1 tooth out on a cam
Car was running fine till it dumped oil on the floor between the engine end gearbox
So then had to strip the gearbox off and found that the crank seal had failed.
Replaced with genuine honda and that solved the problem. But then the other side failed.
So yet again
Had to strip all the belts ect and replaced that one with a genuine honda one and seems to have done the job.
Not to self BUY GENUINE
fitted the breather pipes
Next step MOT then start running it in
LORD WD40
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cometic . There headgaskets may be great . But there crank seals look like any old pattern ones. I have pictures I'll upload in a sec
Leej8
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Haha how long did it take you to figure that out?
LORD WD40
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Not long lol
LORD WD40
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Goes to show there not that good when it comes to seals. Oh well rather it happened now then down theroad