**Best Engine**


Yea the F20C is a nice high revving powerful engine but they blow up left right and centre no matter how old or new they are. They're weak by the looks of it... Add that to owners who haven't a clue and it's bye bye engine. I looked into buying an S2K and didn't purely because of the amount of horror stories. Trust me... There are plenty :(
 
b18c-r
..do I really need to say why? best bang for the buck and comes with a tad more tq.
 
Honda engines to me mean reliable high RPM screamers. The B16B is a proper race bred engine, the oversquare geometry and high R/S ratio allows it to be run harder for longer than any other B series. It is IMO the best of the breed and truest to the Honda ethos. The B18, while producing more torque, will not stand up to the kind of abuse the B16B will, and the B20 is worse still in this regard.

The K20 is the best road engine, the square geometry and iVTEC system gives it great all round flexibility and offers massive tuning potential.

Strangely I dont agree, I dont think a B16b could take any more or any less torture than a B18C

The B16B is an adaptation of the B18C that many stroke to revert the "adaptation".

As much as I like the B16b its lacking what the B18C does not.
 
for me id say B16B wins it,

For its age, The power from a 1600, revving to 9k is awesome, and as Kozy said it will deal with the abuse very well,
Can run Lightened crank pulleys (non dampened) without worry of the oil pump failing etc like it could on the B18c Or so ive heard,

even if thats not true, B16B is an amazing engine.
 
Yeah definitely in speed / power, I'm just saying that the b16b will withstand the extra vibration and IMO for its age its a more significant engine for its size :)
 
Strangely I dont agree, I dont think a B16b could take any more or any less torture than a B18C

Although it may seem that the B18 is just as reliable as the B16, simple physics means that the internal forces in the B18 are significantly higher, and this leads to reduced longevity, especially with regards to piston rings.

I estimate that the B16B can take handle another 1000rpm over the B18C before the internal forces start to equalize, at 8000rpm the B18C mean piston speed is 22.61ms, where the B16B is only at 20.07ms. At 9000rpm the B16B is up to 22.58ms, so still a tad less than the B18 at 8k, and there is roughly 17% less sidethrust to wear down the piston rings at any speed.

This is not to say the B18 is unreliable at all, but if you were to take two new crate engines and race them flat out for 24hours, then strip them down and check the cylinders for wear, the B18 will show a bigger cylinder ovality and significantly worn rings compared to the B16. It would not last as long as the B16 in an endurance racing environment for this reason.

Considering not many people run EK9s as proper race cars then this is a bit of moot point, 99% of people will happily trade a bit of longevity for the extra low down torque that the B18 offers, but talking purely in terms of race engine design, the B16B is the better engine.
 
Kozy - your knowledge never ceases to amaze me mate, thats some tech **** right there.
I do actually udnerstand what you mean though and its good to know.
Would i be right in saying that the F20C has actually got forged con rods and pistons hence why those chaps who supercharge them get them to 500 - 600 hp with no internals being needed to change.

To be honest i think i'm leaning towards the B16B. probably got the highest amount of R&D in it compared to the other engines... wnad from what i've read through it seems they are the nest B series engine.... also the fact its based on physics, which i trust, why this engine is so good..

well this thread did exactly what i wanted it to.... Make me understand more about the honda's range of engines.

keep it coming guys thanks for posting its really helpful. :)
 
I think that the EK9 was given a B16b instead of a B18c because they didn't want to take away from their flagship DC2 by making a rival. As said, technically the B16b is more reliable when driven on the ragged edge consistently, but in real terms their reliability is the same.
 
Although it may seem that the B18 is just as reliable as the B16, simple physics means that the internal forces in the B18 are significantly higher, and this leads to reduced longevity, especially with regards to piston rings.

I estimate that the B16B can take handle another 1000rpm over the B18C before the internal forces start to equalize, at 8000rpm the B18C mean piston speed is 22.61ms, where the B16B is only at 20.07ms. At 9000rpm the B16B is up to 22.58ms, so still a tad less than the B18 at 8k, and there is roughly 17% less sidethrust to wear down the piston rings at any speed.

This is not to say the B18 is unreliable at all, but if you were to take two new crate engines and race them flat out for 24hours, then strip them down and check the cylinders for wear, the B18 will show a bigger cylinder ovality and significantly worn rings compared to the B16. It would not last as long as the B16 in an endurance racing environment for this reason.

Considering not many people run EK9s as proper race cars then this is a bit of moot point, 99% of people will happily trade a bit of longevity for the extra low down torque that the B18 offers, but talking purely in terms of race engine design, the B16B is the better engine.

Running all out, on the edge, for 24 hours, I would think that other failures would occur prior to engine failure for either power plant b16 or b18.. Oil pump, water pump... And if you are racing these engines, a rebuild after 1 season would be recommended anyway.

...are we off topic or what?
 
"...are we off topic or what? "
NOPE thats the idea discuss engines more.
i'm getting sick of people asking basic "whats best for me" so i thought i'd get this going for people to actually talk about them and what they like as opposed to having to try and tailor your answer for someone buying an engine.
that way if someone does ask anyone can post this and then let them think again before asking a question that has SOO many answers and SOO much info.
people are gonna ask, get sent this, then ask again as its too indepth :lol:

but thats the idea, Just a load of tech info lol. so far its good info V.good info.
 
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"...are we off topic or what? "
NOPE thats the idea discuss engines more.
i'm getting sick of people asking basic "whats best for me" so i thought i'd get this going for people to actually talk about them and what they like as opposed to having to try and tailor your answer for someone buying an engine.
that way if someone does ask anyone can post this and then let them think again before asking a question that has SOO many answers and SOO much info.
people are gonna ask, get sent this, then ask again as its too indepth :lol:

but thats the idea, Just a load of tech info lol. so far its good info V.good info.

To many uses for to little honda engines. lol Hard to get one to fit all applications. B20 for hill climbs/drag, b16 for 24 road race, and b18c for 1 hour road course? lol, there is no "best"
 
Makes me think that a b20 with a stroke of 89mm round a track at 8k+ Rpm is not goint to last that long :nerv:.

Maybe the K20 is the answer :blinx: ??.....

(slightly off topic but relevant)
But then the clio 2L 16v F4R flagship engine that seems to take some fair beatings in rallying and track events from what i have heard, which rev to around 8k. And they have a stroke of 93mm:shocked: . Which is alot more than a B20 at 89mm and even further from the b16b at 77.4mm.

Soo hopefully i should be safe. :nice:
 
Found all of this thread to be somewhat on topic and a great info read aswell.

Appologies for the comparison to a Renault engine before i get a slating hahaha

Keep the opinions and tech info coming :nice:
 
what's best for daily road use with abit of power for a few quick races? and good fuel comsupmtion? b18c4? :)
 
"...are we off topic or what? "
NOPE thats the idea discuss engines more.
i'm getting sick of people asking basic "whats best for me" so i thought i'd get this going for people to actually talk about them and what they like as opposed to having to try and tailor your answer for someone buying an engine.
that way if someone does ask anyone can post this and then let them think again before asking a question that has SOO many answers and SOO much info.

Totally agree, I like to see this sort of discussion that makes people think about how and why stuff works, but it seems all anyone wants now is to be spoon fed what parts they should buy and then told how much power it will make. It seems like so little thought goes in to so many of the parts people buy for Hondas, and it's sad because if you do a little research there is so much you can learn about our cars.

Makes me think that a b20 with a stroke of 89mm round a track at 8k+ Rpm is not goint to last that long :nerv:.

True true, although really the dimensions are not that different to the B18C, you have 89mm to 87.2mm, and a 137mm rod to the B18s 137.9mm.
Compared to that piston speed I mentioned earlier of 22.61ms, the B20 is at 23.08ms at 8000rpm, so nowhere the difference between the B16 and the B18. Certainly not going to stand up to the kind of prolonged high RPM abuse that the B16 will do, but then with the extra torque you shouldn't really be needing to rev that high anyway.

(slightly off topic but relevant)
But then the clio 2L 16v F4R flagship engine that seems to take some fair beatings in rallying and track events from what i have heard, which rev to around 8k. And they have a stroke of 93mm:shocked: . Which is alot more than a B20 at 89mm and even further from the b16b at 77.4mm.

Soo hopefully i should be safe. :nice:

Stroke only tells you so much, the length of the rod does have a reasonable effect on engine performance (jury is out on how much exactly), if that 93mm stroke had a long enough rod then it could easy rev that high and remain reliable as you keep the rod angle down and so the piston side thrust is reduced.

The length of the rod not only affects reliability, but also the engine breathing at various engine speeds. A long stroke, short rod (low R/S ratio) motor pulls the piston away from top dead centre quicker than than a short stroke long rod (high R/S) motor. At low RPM, this works to pull a higher vacuum in the early part of the intake stroke, and so increases volumetric efficiency (and so torque) at low speeds. This also works against the high R/S engine in that it does not breath very well at low RPM, making it feel gutless.

Speed the engine up and it starts to change hands, the low R/S ratio doesn't give enough time to effectively fill the cylinders as the piston moves away too quickly, where the high RS engine is giveing the charge more time to completely fill the cylinders, so you get increased torque at higher RPM.

This same effect happens on the power stroke, with the piston moving away from TDC quicker in the low RS engine, it gives less time to fully release the combustion energy into the piston, and in extreme cases it can almost reach the point of outrunning the flame front resulting in less torque, at this point the engine has well and truely run out of breath. In comparison the high RS ratio is able to hold a high pressure for more of the stoke and as a result it can hold power much further up the revs. Since power is torque multiplied by revs, we can see how the little B16B is able to produce such high power with so little torque.

I have heard many people state that while the B18C feels like the more powerful engine all round (and it is), it just doesn't seem to rev as well as the B16B. Considering the engines are pretty much identical in all other aspects, I imagine these breathing characteristics as a result of the bottom end geometry are largely the cause of the difference. The B18C with its 1.54 RS is breathing more efficiently at lower RPM and the B16B at 1.84RS is breathing more efficiently at higher RPM.

I am not all that familiar with the K and F series engines, but the same principals apply.
 
Just to add, for the reasons mentioned above, if I was looking to increase the capacity of the B16B, I would go for a sleeved 85mm x 77.4mm engine. You keep all that natural rev happiness of the B16, but get the majority of the torque from the B18C, albeit biased towards the top end of the rev range. Best of both worlds! :nice:
 
Kozy - understand what you are saying just can't work out what R/S means
is it Rod stroke cause when i say that to myself and read the sentence its makes sense lol.
 
AH man i just found this.....

FTLRacing

its s*** hot info but i need a cup of tea and a good couple of hours to get through it.
equations always throw me and then you see a diamgram and it makes total sense.
oh dear ... if you click back there is some nice engine theory there. i want a degree once i get through all that lot.
 
R/S is Rod length divided by stroke. B16B is 142.3/77.4 = 1.84, B18C is 137.9mm/87.2mm = 1.58. The R/S is dimensionless, it's just a ratio between the two.
 
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