3rd gear crunching


johnowalker

mugenSIR
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
15
hi people question for you in my sir only when im in vtec 3rd is crunching can anybody tell me wats wrong :(
 
More than likely a worn 3rd gear synchro. Try changing the gearbox oil to fresh Honda MTF3 and see if that helps if not you will need to have the box opened and synchro replaced.
 
My 4th gear crunched.

Turns out it was knackerd mounts that has caused it to drop and not engage properly. Since changing my mounts it has been fine.

Phew!
 
MTF oil about €22-24 for 3ltrs. 3rd/4th gear synchro set roughly €220+vat.
 
Just read this about 3rd gear crunching, mine does it but only slightly, as in when I change into 3rd only after 8300rpm.

A local reputable transmission company has said they can inspect the gear box and it may just need the synchro de glazing.

I've never heard of this before, could anyone shed any light on doing this?

Cheers,

Alan
 
So really I would just need this . . . . .

MF-TRS-07 Honda B16A/16B/18C - Carbon-Moly 3rd/4th US$99.95 ??????

from this page?
MFactory Carbon-Moly Synchros

but it might be worthwhile doing them all as in
MF-TRS-07AS Honda B16A/16B/18C - Brass 1st/2nd + Carbon-Moly 3rd/4th/5th US$274.95 ???????

Cheers, Alan
 
I had the same problem, i just changed the fluid to pennzoil synchromesh and after a few days it went away :win:
 
Same problem as me blinx, very top of 2nd going into 3rd from about 8300+ revs?
 
Also, I have been trying to find the pennzoil synchromesh stuff to buy in the uk and realised in alot of previous threads nobody from the uk has managed to.

You say just get GM synchromesh, is this exactly the same but under a different name? So if I went into vauxhall and asked from transmission synchromesh they should be able to sort me out?

cheers
 
Go to your land rover dealer and ask for MTF 2 i think i, Got it in my 9. work's well same stuff as honda..
 
My EG done this 2nd to 3rd high rpm. Changed my fluid and problem was solved.

I would suggest new Gearbox oil and change your shifter bushes also.

If it still persists get a specialist to look at the box!
 
once the problem is there it isnt going away, changing oil to penz synch or similar stuff is good and can stop the crunching and will minimise further wear, crunching may stop for a year +, may not go way, all you can do is try cheaper option first and when it gets bad and isnt going away time to have box inspected and replace faulty parts (only prob lem is that whatever fualt is in first place may slowly lead to other parts wearing in that area so more bits may need replacing)
 
once the problem is there it isnt going away, changing oil to penz synch or similar stuff is good and can stop the crunching and will minimise further wear, crunching may stop for a year +, may not go way, all you can do is try cheaper option first and when it gets bad and isnt going away time to have box inspected and replace faulty parts (only prob lem is that whatever fualt is in first place may slowly lead to other parts wearing in that area so more bits may need replacing)

Yeah definitely, I know its not going to fix the root of the problem, but if I can get some more life out of the gearbox before having to rebuild it I'm up for trying anyway.

My EG done this 2nd to 3rd high rpm. Changed my fluid and problem was solved.

I would suggest new Gearbox oil and change your shifter bushes also.

If it still persists get a specialist to look at the box!

ah cool mate, Need to get some gearbox oil ordered then.

Go to your land rover dealer and ask for MTF 2 i think i, Got it in my 9. work's well same stuff as honda..

hmm, it already has honda mtf stuff in it and I have a 5litre tub of MTF94 land rover stuffin the garage but heard pennzoil synchro is much better.

if someone can clarify that GM synchro is the same as pennzoil I can get that stuff :)
 
dont just rely on that 1 oil because few peopple mentioned it, contact someone like opies oils and ask for list for similar oils with friction modifiers in them/similar properties, quite a few similar oils like penz out there, i very much doubt the uk stuff is same
 
cheers for your advice, I think thats what I'll do actually, better then just sticking some gm stuff in that i 'think' is the same. +1 :)
 
If this is only just starting to happen, I wouldn't try to the "fluid fix". Why? Because although it will help initially, the wear on the synchro teeth on the gear as well as the slider assembly (the most expensive part to fix) will get worse and worse.

You do this to save a few bucks, but then it ends up costing you even more to fix when the time eventually comes. $50 synchro ring vs $250 slider assembly.

However, if you fix the root of the problem now while the issue is still fresh (i.e the synchro rings), this may help prevent the need for an expensive rebuild of the gear + slider assembly further down the line.

Of course, this is provided there isn't another issue such as your mounts etc mentioned above.

For those that don't know, the "synchro ring" is basically just a brake pad for your gears i.e it rubs against the gear, causing friction and slowing it down. If the brake pad is worn, it doesn't matter how you try hiding the problem, the rotor will start to wear down eventually and performance will decrease. However, if you switch to a new brake pad, the problem will go away and performance will increase :)
 
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