Wilwood 4 pots problem


Copper grease?

Im very surprised at you recommending that, its not a lubricant, its an anti-seize compound (hence why used on the back of pads) and could cause more problems further down the line when the copper ''gubs up''. Ive allways used and have been recommended to use either a lithium based grease such as Castrol LM or a rubber friendly grease such as Red Rubber Grease.

But im not the one selling the brakes so i could be wrong :nice:
 
I've heard the same talk previously, but yet to have any problems smearing copper grease on the backs of the pads and the locking pins. They're not greasing sliding pins like the OEM calipers, they're just to stop the pads squeaking.
Also, there's no reason why copper slip would damage the rubber seals.
Just to note, this is for the Wilwood 4 pots, not the OEM sliding calipers.
 
geasing the pins stops the pads squeeling ? don;t get how that works really but i'm going to try it.
 
true indeed. but still it has not stopped the squeek lol.

Stewart i think i'm going to need some new pads soon mate can you pm me a price for some, give me a list of what kind of pads you can get with discs mate.

cheers
 
hi guys...

tell me about you're pedal feel :)

i re-bleed once with pressure machine and pedal become little better, but far from oem...

its better people test this before buy to see if like pedal feel or if its better buy smaller pistons
 
Marco, the pedal travel wont be like OEM, it will be longer as the calipers have a larger a piston area.
 
yeah they are fine now for me got used to the pedal even though if you really do like stand on the pedal it goes to the floor.

The only thing i've noticed is my brake fluid evaporating on track ...
 
Mallyauto86 said:
The only thing i've noticed is my brake fluid evaporating on track ...
Click to expand...

I didnt think brake fluid could evaporate, I recon you have a leak..

Edit: are you sure that's not the normal wear of the discs/pads - this will cause the reservoir to dip...
 
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Wazer said:
I didnt think brake fluid could evaporate, I recon you have a leak..
Click to expand...

When it starts to boil I'm sure it would start to evaporate, which I would assume he is meaning.

If this is happening I think it's about time you were to get some good racing bred fluid such as Motul RBF 600.
 
SRossi said:
When it starts to boil I'm sure it would start to evaporate, which I would assume he is meaning.

If this is happening I think it's about time you were to get some good racing bred fluid such as Motul RBF 600.
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True, but at like 260deg C yes, but why would it be reaching that sort of temp?..

Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.. has it been standing still for a while, then driven? As the moisture could of evaporated.
 
I would strongly recommend that you change out your fluid with a fresh batch.
Water in the system can be the cause of your pedal issue.

I bleed/refresh mine after every track day.
 
mines not that old i will change it though it's bendix 5.1 stuff mite need to invest in some better stuff i supose
 
Wazer said:
True, but at like 260deg C yes, but why would it be reaching that sort of temp?..

Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.. has it been standing still for a while, then driven? As the moisture could of evaporated.
Click to expand...

Could be reaching highish temps on track under hard braking and, as you say, has some water it will lower the boiling point. Especially, again as you say, if it has been sitting idle for a while.

As Tama say's get some new brake fluid in there and your brakes should feel better.
 
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