Wilwood 4 pots problem


yeah im un france though mate superturismos go for 500 euro's here !! in crap condition
 
4days after install 1" mc i see an improvment since the 15/16" MC but its not as much as i whant.

Less pedal travel and slightly hard pedal but when car its running if i hit brake pedal hard it goes all the way down, but do not touch the floor.

When driving in the city with little pedal travel is enough to stop the car with no problem, but if i have to break hard goes with more travel and do not came hard as i got on oem vti brakes.

I whant to understand if you´re brakes feel the same, as i have many opinions...sammy tell that pedal its hard, ashy tell that is more travel and less hard than oem.

as i change the mc i will re-bleed in the next week the brakes...i have trackday in june 17 and i really whant to go but i have doubt because my brake feelings :((
 
you will get use to the brakes mate i wouldnt worry about it i;ve done a track day with my vti Mc . was fine ...
 
Something still isn't right as your pedal shouldn't be going anywhere near the floor!
 
R11CH said:
Something still isn't right as your pedal shouldn't be going anywhere near the floor!
Click to expand...

After install dc2 mc pedal become better but far away from stock feeling...

do you know your pistons bore?

i didnt see any leaks and any bubles come from calipers

wich is best to bleed brakes, vacuum or pressure?
 
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Marco said:
After install dc2 mc pedal become better but far away from stock feeling...

do you know your pistons bore?

i didnt see any leaks and any bubles come from calipers

wich is best to bleed brakes, vacuum or pressure?
Click to expand...

Mine i believe are the 35.1mm bore size pistons but i would have to check when i next have them off but according to my paper work that is what i have.

I have the ITR 1" master cylinder and have zero problems with mine and the pedal is near on stock feeling.

I always vacuum bleed mine :nice:
 
R11CH said:
Mine i believe are the 35.1mm bore size pistons but i would have to check when i next have them off but according to my paper work that is what i have.

I have the ITR 1" master cylinder and have zero problems with mine and the pedal is near on stock feeling.

I always vacuum bleed mine :nice:
Click to expand...

Freakyparts kit use 44mm bore size, also have master and servo from ITR.

I would buy a vacuum bleed kit to test on them as i do the serviçes in lot of my family cars it helps me. what kit do you have?

Maybe the "problem" its really 44mm bore size...
 
Marco said:
Freakyparts kit use 44mm bore size, also have master and servo from ITR.

I would buy a vacuum bleed kit to test on them as i do the serviçes in lot of my family cars it helps me. what kit do you have?

Maybe the "problem" its really 44mm bore size...
Click to expand...

That will be because mine are the Dynalite callipers but they do supply them in 35.1mm and 44.5mm, i would need to double check mine but im sure they are the smaller ones.

I use a Clark vacuum bleeder but there older type, it connects to your compressor and i have bleed lots of cars with this from empty brake lines to simple fluid change and never had a problem with trapped air.
 
Just had a quick read of this thread and just wanted to add a tried and tested bleeding method that works wonders.

Find something that you can simulate you pushing the pedal all the way down like a block of wood trapped between the seat and pedal etc. make sure everything is tight as normal, leave reservoir cap on and leave it for a few hours or preferably over night remembering to disconnect your brake bulbs!

If you are suffering air problem I guarantee this method will work, if the symptoms persist then I'd rule out trapped air.

I myself was sceptical about this until I tried last week when my boss told me about it and surprise surprise.. After a few hours I had a perfect hard pedal.

Go try and let me know your experiences.
 
JDMarron said:
Just had a quick read of this thread and just wanted to add a tried and tested bleeding method that works wonders.

Find something that you can simulate you pushing the pedal all the way down like a block of wood trapped between the seat and pedal etc. make sure everything is tight as normal, leave reservoir cap on and leave it for a few hours or preferably over night remembering to disconnect your brake bulbs!

If you are suffering air problem I guarantee this method will work, if the symptoms persist then I'd rule out trapped air.

I myself was sceptical about this until I tried last week when my boss told me about it and surprise surprise.. After a few hours I had a perfect hard pedal.

Go try and let me know your experiences.
Click to expand...

This is a little trick we use on motocross bikes except you cable tie the lever in over night and by the morning its perfect, never though of doing this on a car. :nice:
 
Exactly! It's a tried and tested method used on bikes and also works exactly the same on cars! No one I have spoke to seem to understand the theory about this method but it must push the air to the highest point being the reservoir and somehow bleed through it. I think the reservoirs vent to air through a tiny hole which would explain the theory.

Works a treat :)
 
But in the morning must to open bleeder to air come off or not?

i understand the idea, the system all night pressurized the air come for the furthest point
 
Marco said:
But in the morning must to open bleeder to air come off or not?

i understand the idea, the system all night pressurized the air come for the furthest point
Click to expand...

Just leave it and let it do it's thing. No need to open reservoir or anything.
 
Thanks for the tip.

buy vacuum bleeer wich i will try and see what happens. pressure bleeder seems better system but kit its more expensive.
 
i must rebleed my brakes too. i think the pedal feel is wierd but in no way is it dangerous just takes getting used too.

the only real thing thats anoying is the frigging brake squeel from the DS2500 pads.
 
I run them on my race car and don't get any squeal and they're run HARD!
You made sure the backs of the pads, sliders and quick release pin have all been lubed up with some copper grease yes?
 
no i have not done that didnt think of doing it to be honest. so the pad clip and back of pads need to be greased?

i thaught it was just the shitty OEM bosch discs fault. other than that the brakes are perfect.
 
verry true never thaught to grease parts for brakes though will do it tonite. but i doubt it will stop the squeek
 
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