Too light of a flywheel


kasperwhoo

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Sep 17, 2009
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:clap:I am on my way to my first build and i have some concerns :( about stories i have heard :secret:that too light of a flywheel will infact spin a bearing no matter what the setup will be. I was thinking even with MSD 3-step (rev-control & launch control), the correct connecting rod bearing clearance and oil supply that maybe even a 7lb. flywheel :bow: should be safe (just pushing it)! :drive: please good info and no rubbish :nono: :welcome:
 
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A light flywheel will not spin a rod bearing, even if it only weighed 1 lb.
 
Please use the search function!!!!

This has come up before about different weights of flywheel......

As blinx pointed out, run as light as you want

Think you may be getting mixed up with the crank pulley on the other side of the engine..... As standard they are harmonically damped, N1 crank pulleys as well as some others are not and unless you have them accurately balanced before fitting, in the long term they can damage bearings
 
I just bought a fidanza 3.4kg flywheel, I'm sure a company like that would not want to sell something that could potentaly damage an engine! Otherwise they would be paying for alot of engine rebuilds!
 
That's not what I'm saying, why would they produce a product that will cause such a major problem???

Exactly..They aint going to make a product that will affect peoples engines as then they will be getting bad reviews from those people
 
Lol just read this thread. Mate everyone who has commented on this say's "its fine..run as light as you want" just take the advice and run with it! nothing else can be said on the matter.
 
:clap:I am on my way to my first build and i have some concerns :( about stories i have heard :secret:that too light of a flywheel will infact spin a bearing no matter what the setup will be....

This is not true, the purpose of the flywheel is a mass designed/sized to efficienty store and release kinetic energy. The only real downside to a lightweight flywheel is a slight loss in fuel-economy and low down torque.

A light flywheel will not spin a rod bearing, even if it only weighed 1 lb.

:blinx: Totally agree! :)

run as light as u want . its your decision .

:D

Lol just read this thread. Mate everyone who has commented on this say's "its fine..run as light as you want" just take the advice and run with it! nothing else can be said on the matter.

Top advice.

Note: JUNK deleted :angry:
 
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This is not true, the purpose of the flywheel is a mass designed/sized to efficienty store and release kinetic energy. The only real downside to a lightweight flywheel is a slight loss in fuel-economy and low down torque.:


My bad on the rubbish post but good advice still wondering about the msd-3.
Check out these whips so you can see what i'm thinking of!
YouTube - TURBO VTEC
 
Dont bother with the MSD 3step. theyre really for carb engines! you dont need an MSD yet anyway. If you did you'd be much better off getting the base version that doesnt have all the fancy extras. If you want launch control/shift light/full throttle shift etc then really you want some sort of aftermarket engine management solution tuned and setup properly.
 
Dont bother with the MSD 3step. theyre really for carb engines! you dont need an MSD yet anyway. If you did you'd be much better off getting the base version that doesnt have all the fancy extras. If you want launch control/shift light/full throttle shift etc then really you want some sort of aftermarket engine management solution tuned and setup properly.





:blinx: What are some aftermarket engine management that will do just as good if you know any! :blinx: And what is neptune & ectune, are these some. I have heard of these before!
 
nepttune and ectune are just software for burning chips. There is some hardware that can be used with tthem with similar paper spec as hondata..... but when it comes down to it most of the functions are in development still. You can real-time tune with eCtune/Neptune bu need an emulater, chip burner etc and suitable program licence.

Your best buying one of the following... MoTeC, DTA, Hondata , OMEX, Gems, AEM.

hondata is one of tthe cheaper and yet very capable options
 
nepttune and ectune are just software for burning chips. There is some hardware that can be used with tthem with similar paper spec as hondata..... but when it comes down to it most of the functions are in development still. You can real-time tune with eCtune/Neptune bu need an emulater, chip burner etc and suitable program licence.

Your best buying one of the following... MoTeC, DTA, Hondata , OMEX, Gems, AEM.

hondata is one of tthe cheaper and yet very capable options

Crome beats all of them what you listed Will :p
 
nepttune and ectune are just software for burning chips. There is some hardware that can be used with tthem with similar paper spec as hondata..... but when it comes down to it most of the functions are in development still. You can real-time tune with eCtune/Neptune bu need an emulater, chip burner etc and suitable program licence.

Your best buying one of the following... MoTeC, DTA, Hondata , OMEX, Gems, AEM.

hondata is one of tthe cheaper and yet very capable options


I have a cusin that wants to go to school for automotive computer programming. Would he be able to use my labtop. What kind of software would you have to buy for programing and adjusting all of those options! For a better idea i've seen labtops being used in cars on a dyno (fuel mapping). Would he be able to do the same with the programs!
 
Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement read up...fuel mapping, vtec, everything you can think of, even when the AC turns off by RPM, launch control and so, SO much more. http://www.hondata.com/s300.html

Im running the s300 with the obd2 to obd1 conversion built in. Fully programmable from my laptop. One of the best investments I have ever made. [besides the b18c-r hehe]

BTW, I would recommend buying power over building it any day, buy the power K20, K24, B18C-R and tune it via hondata or your ecu of choice...just my personal advice...as building power is not as reliable as getting it stock. Plus your going to save money and time.

If your very good, then building it is good too, but you need to know what your doing, I mean you really need to know what your doing. Honda engines are built very well and efficient, getting more out of them is no easy task for NA.

Building the engine up for forced induction is different, going lower compression to help with detonation while beefing up the bottom end to handle the boost/hp is a different build in my eyes, there is much that can be had with this type of build.

Just my friendly advice...ive been doing this honda crap since 1992, ive seen it all. Started with d16 my first fully built engine, moved to b16 and now b18, its way better to buy power "out da box", if you get my drift. [got my eyes on a k24 now]

Happy hunting...
 
Crome beats all of them what you listed Will :p

With no hardware to back it up!... I'm sure. :dance::dance::dance:<-Crackers! :p MoTeC is by far the best, all the others BY COMPARISON of standards are just playing at it.

I have a cusin that wants to go to school for automotive computer programming...

He would be best going to the school and learning from them on their equipment. Theres really basic guides all over the internet which make it look simple but the fact is theres a lot of physics in the background and a hell of a lot more involved than the basic guides will ever tell you on the internet. Which is why theres a alot of people who believe built engines arent/cant be reliable, ALOT of self proclaimed tuners out there from OBD flash remaps/resellers through to chip tuners and even established companies with bad reputations for blowing things up or bad quality. When a cars been tuned it should start/idle/run/feel like a new factory car. period. in every aspect.

www.hondata.com, read up...fuel mapping, vtec, everything you can think of, even when the AC turns off by RPM, launch control and so, SO much more.
Im running the s300 with the obd2 to obd1 conversion built in. Fully programmable from my laptop. One of the best investments I have ever made. [besides the b18c-r hehe]...

Good post, Its definitely a worthy investment for your Honda, and its so cheap yet capable. Great piece of hardware. Definitely not to be confused with plain chip-tuning.
 
Good post, Its definitely a worthy investment for your Honda, and its so cheap yet capable. Great piece of hardware. Definitely not to be confused with plain chip-tuning.

with all the customization going on with everyones hondas, all very unique, a programmable ecu is almost a must. Not a good place to save money on either, my s300 ran in the high $599 USD, would not call that cheap, but well worth every cent.
 
While I agree you should never skimp out on engine management, the NepTune RTP is only $399, $200 cheaper than a Hondata S300, and is just as capable if not more-so. It has an easy to use interface with a lot of configurability for whatever setup you're tuning, On-Board logging up to 3 hours, Anti-Theft, and a whole lot more than what most people are aware of.

Take a look for yourself:
NepTune RTP
 
:secret: Where is it do you acutally plug that up to! I'm a little new to this part of the car (pcm). :secret:
 
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