Rich777's B16 engine build


Cheers mate.

I've spent a good deal of today reassembling the engine again after having to have oil squirter no.4 drilled and tapped . I need to stretch torque the rod bolts down still, but i'll get onto that along with finishing things off with the bottom end on Monday.

This is the sealant what i'm using.

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Endyn oil pump.

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And a few of where i am at with the block. Note the B&R -10an adapter...

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Yeah i know the painting isn't the best on the back... :p

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Nah mate , there are plenty of high power b16's out there running without one. Girdles do help with main bearing wear, but there not strictly needed.
 
Here's the updates from yesterday :

My .051 Cometic head gasket arrived... do you guys recommend it treat this? I have Hylomar blue or copper spray. If so, which one?

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I also picked up x20 m6 1.0 x30mm studs so I could ditch all the sump bolts and run studs for easier installation.

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And stretch torqued the rod bolts down to the required .006

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are you gonna be running a cometic bottom end gasket set??? what sump you gonna be running?

looking good man
 
Why did you choose the cometic over stock? If your going to put anything on the gasket use the copper spray or dont, I have never used it on any of my boosted builds, if the head and block have been machined flat to a good tolerance I cant see why you would need it.
 
as above, i wouldn't put anything at all on the gasket

x2 on the question about running it over a stock gasket, a stock gasket is still good on up to 81.5mm pistons
 
I normally put a little bit of hondabond near oil orifice and near edges of oil returns from head to block, never had a leak yet(touch wood). I don't bother with copper spray. Hopefully that cometic gasket doesn't give you any issues, they seem to be hit and miss.
 
harvey j said:
are you gonna be running a cometic bottom end gasket set??? what sump you gonna be running?

looking good man
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Nah mate, I have a oem bottom end gasket set. I have a Moroso sump too :nice:

rs250nut said:
Why did you choose the cometic over stock? If your going to put anything on the gasket use the copper spray or dont, I have never used it on any of my boosted builds, if the head and block have been machined flat to a good tolerance I cant see why you would need it.
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I never had a choice. My piston to deck clearance was @ 0 and with the oem HG I would of only had .029 piston head clearance (at the most). I wanted at least .040 at the minimum to allow for rod stretch in the higher rpm band. It's not something I wanted to do....

Both Hylomar blue and Copper spray help ensure the head gasket seal is spot on. My machine shop swears by copper spray as a lot of there customers use it with great success (professional race teams) . If there is any minor surface imperfections it will fill them and prevent a leak. It's just for a backup more than anything... Neither of them will hurt anything...
 
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Vtec6000 said:
I normally put a little bit of hondabond near oil orifice and near edges of oil returns from head to block, never had a leak yet(touch wood). I don't bother with copper spray. Hopefully that cometic gasket doesn't give you any issues, they seem to be hit and miss.
Click to expand...

Have you had one fail on you personally mate.? I hear good and bad about them all the time lol. I know people that swear by them, and others that love to swear at them haha.

We'll see anyway... ones things for sure I've never heard a bad word about Honda OEM head gaskets.

If it does go I'll purchase a 1mm Toda head gasket.

P.S. just incase your wondering, I did consider getting the pistons machined but ditched the idea as I'd prefer to keep as much meat on the piston crowns as possible and add back to the deck height.
 
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No not me personally but friends in the industry have so I learned from their mistakes and avoided Cometic gaskets! I've had problems with Buddyclub and Spoon gaskets in the past so I just stick with OEM which has never let me down. I understand your predicament with p2h clearance so in your case there isn't really much other choice, well you could chance it and it may never be a issue but better to be safe than sorry. With a fresh decked block and head skim atleast you have a better chance of not running into HG problems.
 
I had my sleeves fitted with a .002 nip height so that they stand proud out of the block a tad. This should ensure that there's a nice strong bite on the firing rings which should help ensure the HG doesn't fail.
 
I got started on the cylinder head assembly today guys. I think I've run into a problem with one of the stem seals though. It seems all but one of the stem seals seat level with the spring seat. I'm thinking either the guide has been CNC'd wrong or it hasn't been pressed in far enough.... I'm going to call my machine shop on Monday to see what they have to say, but if anyone want to throw there opinion/advise in then please do !!

Clean down... (this took around a hour believe it or not)

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I gave the valves and spring seats a good clean down with brake cleaner...

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Now that its clean I can continue the assembly in my room for convenience sake..

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Began fitting the stem seals.. (note the little marks on where the cam journals sit isn't dirt. Its left of marks from the brake cleaner what have showed up black on the picture for some weird reason.

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Now this is the issue what I'm having. If you notice how the first seal is seated compared to the second you will see that there is around a 1mm - 1.5mm gap at the bottom of the seal. Just incase anyone is wondering, YES the seal does seem like its fitted onto the guide correctly.

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Guys, I've sorted the valve guide drama out. It turns out that the guide has been pressed in properly as its level with the guide next to it. It also seems as though they have a engraved line going around the circumference of the guides which is nearly in level with the cylinder head. The line must mean "press to hear" to ensure the guide installed height is correct. I spoke with my machine shop briefly earlier as well and they assured me that the guides would of been pressed in properly as they always check the installed heights.

Other than that i havent really got up to much this evening. I've cleaned and blasted down the rest of the cylinder head components that i have (basically stuff that was clean already). As some of you might have picked up, I am very fussy when it comes to cleanliness and I'd rather "do it myself" than relying on the manufacturers or hot tanks.

Just a little heads up for some of you guys... these are the valve spring retainers that I'm going to be using. They are made by Brain Crower and are steel so they are designed with high milage in mind... They weight in at 11.5g which is lighter than stock which are 12.9g-13.0g (not sure what your average titanium retainer weights ??). They may well be a future option for some of you...

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