Paul's EK4 Track Build


paul said:
Cheers, it was a toss up between orange and dark purple and I think I made the right choice. I got them off someone on Ebay, no idea of the brand.
Click to expand...

Yep Deffo! the orange looks good! need some driftworks orange harnesses
 
Looks clean!! And the orange... well it's something different that the usual colours you see :)
 
Hi all, the car is in the garage tying up a few issues before the mot and I have a question. The car is over fuelling and revving on its own when warm. I have cleaned the iacv and tested it and it works but I still have the issue. The garage think it's the exhaust and it's too big and the engine does not have enough back pressure. It's a fujitsibo rm10a which is 2 1/4 inches. Can anyone help with if this is the issue. Thanks.
 
Great build, can't be of too much help but I personally highly doubt its the exhaust
 
Could be an exhaust issue if you were to have an exhaust leak before your lambda sensor. As it would put the reading out.
 
So the car finally has an mot, took ages but It finally went through. I have a few questions though and hope someone can help me out. The rear drop links connecting the whiteline ARB and lower control arm are too long and causing the arm to hit the exhaust. Can I buy shorter ones and fit those instead, pulling the ARB down away from the exhaust? Also where can I buy strong radiator ties that hold the fan to the rad, all the ones I have got just snap when there is a strong breeze, need strong ones. Any help will be appreciated. Cheers
 
Awesome work, car will look great on the track! In regards to the droplinks, I had a similar issues and bought height adjustable spherical ones from F7, blox also makes them at a decent price.
 
Thanks, bought the asr adjustable drop links in the end, read nothing but good things about them. A small issue in having is as I have removed all air blower parts I have a large hole where the unit used to go in the scuttle panel. The hole has "walls" on it but I'm still not sure and think some water might get in and land on my electrics underneath in the passanger footwell. Ive put a pic below ad would appreciate some help. Thanks.
30158562-4E86-4182-85E1-A5130C2B4FB8-5367-0000070EAC73738A_zps82eb61f4.jpg
 
So I had the car running and then the engine died becuase the oil pumped failed. So now I am on the hunt for another b16a2 block, but I have been told that you get get a
B18 fitted for not much more cost.
My questions are what is needed?
I have a facelift EK4 with the loom for a b16a2 engine. I have an S4C gearbox and a
OBD1 ECU.
Can I buy the engine and bolt my standard gearbox to it without any problems? Will the engine mounts be in the same place, hoses be the same etc.

Any help will be greatly appreciated
 
Everything will fit mate. Just fit the b18 and use a suitable map for the engine
 
So I have come a bit further with the new engine, I am going to fit a B18c4 with a P30 ECU. My question is should I get the S9B gearbox with LSD or stick with my S4C with no LSD. I am aware of the longer ratios in the S9B, but does the addition of the LSD outweigh the losses from the ratios. I have never driven a car with a LSD and found my S4C gearbox great when the car was running.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
I would advise going with an LSD, especially as your on track. Get yourself a Y21, add a final drive and LSD.
 
I would love a y21 but the only two options at the moment are the S9B or S4C, what is best for the track?
 
So I have gone for the B16 gearbox and will LSD it later down the line. I am getting a P30 ECU with the engine and want to know what to do with getting it working with my loom.
I am aware I have to send it H-tune for a basemap and getting it chipped so it can be re-mapped in the future, but do I need a harness adaptor?
 
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