Oil Burning Only In Vtec ??


S

Stuarty

2000 CW B18c EK9-Rx
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
858
Alrighty people, need some more help!! I rebuilt a B18c and have done just over a 1000 mile since i built it. I only used vtec a few times during the 1000 mile period but now i'm using it a lot more i get puffs of blue smoke out the exhaust as soon as i hit vtec and it lacks power also. Ive also got hundreads of black dots all over my tailgate :((

I'm a bit worried thats its maybe something i've done during the build but i havent got a clue. I have been told it could be a faulty lambda probe and its overfueling and washing the bores causing oil to get into the cylinders. But would like to here from you guys first.

Its B18c block which has been skimmed, fitted with a Spoon stroker kit. OEM headgasket, head resurfaced, Viton stem seals, valves reseated.

Would really appreciate any help at all guys :bow:

Cheers
 
You should start by checking the compressions on each cylinder, this is a must! :(
 
As RVM and '6000 have stated... compression check first. did you test this before you fired it up?

also have the cylinders been re-honed at all?...what with?

what ECU are you running it on?
 
I've got the same problem, Found out to be valve stem seals fitted new ones but crush the seal on a few cylinders. How did you fit yours i found it running rich as well. Your find it will get worse.
 
you have new stem seals so its not that, but you said you installed the spoon stroker kit, did you bore over or did you keep the standard 81mm bore?
 
rvm said:
You should start by checking the compressions on each cylinder, this is a must! :(
Click to expand...

Just done a compression test - Engine was warm and full throttle - Each cylinder came up 200psi almost dead on. Is that ok?

EK9turbo said:
As RVM and '6000 have stated... compression check first. did you test this before you fired it up?

also have the cylinders been re-honed at all?...what with?

what ECU are you running it on?
Click to expand...

Before i had it running i done a compression test with the throttle closed and it was 160psi across all four.

As for the cylinders being honed, i was told it had been honed and it didn't need rebored when i bought it from thingee on here. I don't know what they used to hone it ethier.

Its running a 98 spec teg ECU with a harness adapter.

blinx9900 said:
you have new stem seals so its not that, but you said you installed the spoon stroker kit, did you bore over or did you keep the standard 81mm bore?
Click to expand...

The block wasnt rebored but it was honed and skimmed, so it would still be the standard 81mm bore.


Bigskank said:
I've got the same problem, Found out to be valve stem seals fitted new ones but crush the seal on a few cylinders. How did you fit yours i found it running rich as well. Your find it will get worse.
Click to expand...

I had the head rebuilt by a company called Piston and Components. It got the valves reseated, stem seals fitted, head resurfaced and head was cleaned. Its definetly running rich by im not sure why. What did you do to fix yours?
 
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Vtec6000 said:
200 psi across the board is fine.
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Good, so do you think that the block is fine and that its more to do with the head? I'm starting to think its the same thing thats happened to Bigskank, the stem seals havent been fitted correctly :((
 
you could do with putting it on a local dyno to findout how its runnign on full throttle and steady-state. Then youll know how the mixtures doing. If the place has an EGA then they can tell you alot more about the breakdown of the exhaust gasses :nice:
 
I think i might have to just give in to a specialist and see what they say. I'm dreading it!

Nobody have any ideas i can try out? I just ordered a new lambda probe there hopefully that helps.

I havent got a clue where a dyno is near me? Only one i actually know of is Dastek in Edinburgh.

Another question - See the philips screw at the end of the fuel rail, what exactly is that for?
 
the phillips screw goes into the fuel damper which smooths out any pulsations in the fuel delivery, I have never dissasembled one so couldnt tell you exactly what it does but I could safely assume it secures part of the dampener to the end of its casing.

No use guessing what could be wrong, that wont help you itll just give you more to worry about which is not the way forward for you.
 
your compression is ok,did u remove the catalytic converter? and add aftermarket exhaust? could be fuel mixture. could be your o2 sensor compensating for for too much or too little oxygen.
 
Ive fitted a decat along with a Spoon 4-1 manifold and Mugen twin loop b pipe and backbox but its still got a standard airbox n filter. Is it time for a remap maybe then?
 
Have you removed any of the plugs to take a look at the colour of them to give clues to how each cylinder is running? Also what plugs are you running and how old are they?

Also be worth checking the PCV valve, should be a red plastic valve (might be black) that is just plugged into the inlet manifold if you look down behind the oil cap. pull the valve out and unclip the hose that comes off it. The valve if you shake it should rattle as it's a ball bearing valve, basically squirt carb cleaner in from both sides until no more black stuff comes out, dry it off, make sure it rattles and then refit

If the PCV valve is clogged then it can cause the engine to burn a small amount of oil


Not sure exactly how it's done, but get a leakdown test carried out, gives a much better idea of the sealing within the engine and should give a good idea of what is up :)
 
Ways of oil finding way into compression space?

1. Spark rubber rings. Have to check them. -easy check
2. Valve stem seals. Not fixed well. Broke. - easy check
3. Oil ring. During brake out procedure you forced engine a bit. Compression ring was ok, but you broke oil ring on the piston. - **** check
 
Information on the leakdown test here Leak Down Test VFAQ

Also what oil do you use? Did you use a different grade/type of oil for breaking in? How often have you changed the oil and filter already?!
 
Sorry guys been busy all weekend first time ive had a chance to reply. I managed to fit a lambda sensor this weekend and it now goes really really well again. I'm thinking the oil thats burning has ****ed the old lambda sensor.

stevenEK9 said:
Have you removed any of the plugs to take a look at the colour of them to give clues to how each cylinder is running? Also what plugs are you running and how old are they?


If the PCV valve is clogged then it can cause the engine to burn a small amount of oil


Not sure exactly how it's done, but get a leakdown test carried out, gives a much better idea of the sealing within the engine and should give a good idea of what is up :)
Click to expand...

Took all the plugs out and there all a kind of dirty white colour on all 4 of them. Its oem honda iridium plugs and there 5k old now.

Checked the PCV valve and its free but i cleaned that also.

stevenEK9 said:
Information on the leakdown test here Leak Down Test VFAQ

Also what oil do you use? Did you use a different grade/type of oil for breaking in? How often have you changed the oil and filter already?!
Click to expand...

Cheers for the leakdown test info mate.

pimpinblackcivic said:
what break in method did you use? also what rings did you use?
Click to expand...

I didnt really use a method - Oil and filter change after 50 miles then one at 1000miles using vtec occasionally during the 1000miles but never up to the redline or using vtec hard. Just an occasional burst. I used Honda rings.

Break in i used was - Fuchs TITAN XTR 10W/40 High Performance Semi-Synthetic
Its now running on - Motul 300v 5w-40
 
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Does this mean your out and about in EK now? One of my best mates knows you, Stevo that used to have the Puma'd ZS?
 
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