Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Yeah the lower belt cover doesn't fit.
Miles off aswell.
I think I'm just going to keep it tbh. Not broken then don't fix it comes to mind lol
 
Did you get the pump from the U.S. or was it incorrectly supplied by someone over here? I may replace my oil pump as it's got to come off (funny leak) and don't want to fall in to the same trap with a pump that won't fit
 
Supplier over here gets them from the us.
Asked his contact to send over a b18c pump, he sent the American one lol
Being sorted so no love lost!
 
Coming together nicely.
What's the ussue with using the usdm oil pump? Does it stop the belt cover fitting correctly?
If you want to ditch the heat exchanger then some b16a's have pipes (between water pump and thermostat) with out the take off for the heat exchanger so it saves looping the pipes you can also get a bung to screw in to the block

All b16s have heat exchangers, or at least everyone ive seen.
If I were you, I would keep it in place. It helps the oil get up to temperature quicker. Even with the thermostat in there it always bypasses a small amount of oil, it is never fully shut.
 
All b16s have heat exchangers, or at least everyone ive seen.
If I were you, I would keep it in place. It helps the oil get up to temperature quicker. Even with the thermostat in there it always bypasses a small amount of oil, it is never fully shut.

Some don't, I can assure you of that, I've owned one and seen others, and it wasn't a case of it being removed as it had the different steel pipe across the back of the block,
If it didn't exist I wouldn't of suggested it as a solution
 
Some don't, I can assure you of that, I've owned one and seen others, and it wasn't a case of it being removed as it had the different steel pipe across the back of the block,
If it didn't exist I wouldn't of suggested it as a solution

Odd there is no mention of some b16s not having a heat exchanger even in the Honda workshop manual. Must have been the very early ones.
I know the b18c4s didn't come with a heat exchanger so there is another option for getting a water pipe.
 
Yeah I'm going to just plumb the oem system back up. Too much faff for no real benefit.
Good news is my rod bolts are out for delivery today, not got them yet but atleast they are close!
 
You should get adjustable cam gears man since uv such a nice build here the standard cam gears look out of place in my opinion haha :wtf2:
 
Money no issue I'd have a nice head set up.
Unfortunately money is quickly becoming an issue lol
I know what kind of performance I'm after and the ek9 head can give me that no worries.
 
Tiny update
Got my replacement rod bolts delivered.
Basically the Manley rods have a custom rod bolt from arp that essentially strengthens the rod further.
This means if your an idiot like me and over stretch them your stuck for finding replacements.
Found a set through summit racing in the us, over 2 weeks later they finally arrived.
Wanted to get them in this weekend but mrs car failed it's MOT.


So now I'm waiting on a new oil pump and then It's all systems go.
May get some friends round so I can get alot done in a weekend.
 
nice toy monkey... :gav:
Haha you got yours one I take it?
I got it for my little cousin, he's abit of a terror so I thought a slingshot monkey would be epic to him lol
 
Yeah the lower belt cover doesn't fit.
Miles off aswell.
I think I'm just going to keep it tbh. Not broken then don't fix it comes to mind lol

I've come across this a lot, just trim a little bit off the bottom of your lower t.belt cover and it will fit fine.
 
I did do that.
This was the result



As you can see, leaves a fair amount of space and would rather not risk something getting in there.
 
So got those rod bolts in.
Stretched perfectly on the gauge to a shave over 006"
Got the oem water-oil heat exchanger plumbed in correctly.
Alternator on
Engine mounts on
Put the sump on to keep the crap out of it while I wait for the oil pump to arrive.
Just waiting on the pump and then I can bolt it up for the last time and hopefully get the engine in!!!
Afew little pictures

Was so tempting to put the turbo on aswell, but I've already got the downpipe on it and would have to remove it to get the sump back off.
Looks like a complete engine now though.

Is abit busy back there, just got to get the oil cooler lines cleaned and hooked up, not sure where im going with the cooler yet. Probably where the aircon rad goes.

Again got to wait for the oil pump before I can fit the rest of the Cambelt cover and the crank pulley, feels abit silly putting the stock pulley on it seen as I've not got aircon or PS anymore but way too poor for fancy damper pulleys lol
 
So got afew more little bits done today.
Got some service items through from tegiwa, they where actually cheaper than opie which I found surprising.
Delivered quickly too
Two "shortie" hamp filters
Millers mineral running in oil
Motul inugel coolant

Fitted injectors and hondata 4bar map sensor. Real pleased with the quality of the injector dynamics injectors. Just holding them in your hand you feel the quality!

Fitted the oil filter, picture shows how much shorter the "shortie" filter is.
I got the short one for a small increase in oil pressure and because I have stacked sandwich plates I want to keep the weight down best as possible.

Also gapped the plugs down to 022" after speaking with romain that's alittle wider than he recommended but I can change this easy enough if it's too wide(doubt it)
Fitted the ignition leads
Took the wiring loom out the car and fit that too the engine to make things simpler when the engine is back in
Ran the oil cooler lines
Fitted the wastegate back onto the manifold(not fitting manifold onto block yet)

Decided I'm going to fit the engine back into the car with the wrong pump, then put the correct pump on when it arrives(before starting the car)
I can't sit around all Xmas and do nothing lol
Hopefully I'll have pictures of an engine in the bay tomorrow/sunday
 
Good progress :)
I was considering that running in oil but wasn't sure if it was worth it?
 
Running in oil is the most important bit of the first start up . As u need a lot of Zinc in the oil to bed thoses pistons in . I went for the driven oil had good reviews . £9 a litre
 
I've got two running in oils.
One is a classic sae 30 mineral and then I got this one aswell
Multi grade 10-40w mineral.
Might stick the classic in for the initial start up and first drive.
Drop that after like 20mins driving then run the multi grade stuff after that for afew more miles.
Not sure yet, running it in on the dyno is alittle tricky so going to do it on the road I think.
 
Back
Top