Is a turbo suitable for me?


_JT

_JT

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I'm making all kind of futureplans for my soon to be EK9 :p One of them at first was to tune it N/A. But after I had a ride in a 286whp ITR I was thinking about a turbo. However, yesterday someone told me it would be very limited of use, especially because of temperature issues. He said you can pull it open a few times but then you'd have to let everything cool down; the turbo will burn the oil. So it would sure as hell not be suitable for longer term full load, say a lap on the nordschleiffe. An oil cooler wouldn't be helping that much either.

So what do guys have to say about it :p
 
turbo's do not burn oil lol, if that was true evo's and porche's would not exist ;)

If you plan to do some lapping with a turbo motor then forged pistons and rods are a MUST, you can keep your factory sleeves if you plan for around 300-350whp and the stock head is fine also. You can get an oil cooler but i would upgrade the radiator from there and only use an oil cooler as a last resort if your still running hot.

Furthermore if you plan to go forward with this idea it would be best to find a b16a block and have it built with forged pistons and rods like wiseco pistons and eagle rods with new bearings of course, should cost about $1500 when all said and done.
 
listen to blinx.. good advice.

it sounds like you have been speaking to people who do not know about this. I can hammer my turbo engine all day long without worrying! :nice:

The main thing about running a turbo Honda is DONT CUT CORNERS for COST!... you need a built engine and quality parts if you want long term reliability. You wont have any over-heating issues with a good setup.
 
good answers. only in addition, if you tend to rev engine higher, be careful about the eagle rods. they are good for about 8500 rpm, any higher, could affect rod studs failure. i can say, that a friend had b20 N/A setup for drag racing, the car was revving on 9400 for two years, the last drag race in tokol (hungary) was fatal for engine.. third pull, boom.. the rod stud broke, unhooked from chank, you can imagine what happened... the car had 270.2 hp and 220 Nm torque pure N/A. the car ran 11.8. unfortunately, sad ending.
I am not saying, that you should'n install the eagle rods, but there's allways a dooubt when hammering it higher..
I only wanted to share a knowledge, not to contradict anybody's posting..

i will run my setup in two months time. i used stock b16 block, changed the bearings,stock rods, instaled gsr 9:1 comp oem pistons and rebuild the head. the goal is 'bout 320-330 crank and 16-18 psi.. I can let you know about the result..

cheers, Sparx
 
Well I don't mean burning oil like setting it on fire but just destroying the oil because of the heat the turbo generates. The guy who told me has a turbo on his B16a. But why use a B16a and not a B16b?
 
Sparx said:
good answers. only in addition, if you tend to rev engine higher, be careful about the eagle rods. they are good for about 8500 rpm, any higher, could affect rod studs failure. i can say, that a friend had b20 N/A setup for drag racing, the car was revving on 9400 for two years, the last drag race in tokol (hungary) was fatal for engine.. third pull, boom.. the rod stud broke, unhooked from chank, you can imagine what happened... the car had 270.2 hp and 220 Nm torque pure N/A. the car ran 11.8. unfortunately, sad ending.
I am not saying, that you should'n install the eagle rods, but there's allways a dooubt when hammering it higher..
I only wanted to share a knowledge, not to contradict anybody's posting..

i will run my setup in two months time. i used stock b16 block, changed the bearings,stock rods, instaled gsr 9:1 comp oem pistons and rebuild the head. the goal is 'bout 320-330 crank and 16-18 psi.. I can let you know about the result..

cheers, Sparx
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i highly doubt that was caused by a rod bolt failure, probably improper torqueing, eagle rods use ARP rod bolt which are some of the strongest in the world.


_JT said:
Well I don't mean burning oil like setting it on fire but just destroying the oil because of the heat the turbo generates. The guy who told me has a turbo on his B16a. But why use a B16a and not a B16b?
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nobody makes rods for b16b block, that is the reason to use b16a block, as far as oil just check it more often, maybe change it every 2000-2500 if you drive hard.
 
Don't mean to hijack, but if I got a b16a bottom end with wiseco forged pistons, and eagle rods, would the stock b16a crank be okay for 330ish whp?
 
Also no rods available for the B18c then? And I was thinkink, the 1500 was for building the block alone? Ex intercooler, turbo etc?
 
_JT said:
Also no rods available for the B18c then? And I was thinkink, the 1500 was for building the block alone? Ex intercooler, turbo etc?
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I'd assume that includes buying the block and pistons/rods, you can pick up pistons for around $450 and rods for $300.

Seen a guy selling both for $450.
 
_JT said:
Well I don't mean burning oil like setting it on fire but just destroying the oil because of the heat the turbo generates. The guy who told me has a turbo on his B16a. But why use a B16a and not a B16b?
Click to expand...
cheap turbos have crap seals, they lose alot of oil through there!...a quality turbo wont.

B16a turbo is street king. Thats why. :nice:
 
_JT said:
However, yesterday someone told me it would be very limited of use, especially because of temperature issues. He said you can pull it open a few times but then you'd have to let everything cool down; the turbo will burn the oil. So it would sure as hell not be suitable for longer term full load, say a lap on the nordschleiffe. So what do guys have to say about it :p
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:angry:

I think your mans talking poo poo.

The dam vtec on the B16B burns oil, my turbo cars have never.

Tempreture issues... You wont have any providing your radiator is adequate for the job as well as an approproate intercooler to cool the intake charge down.

And of course a good map with internals and compression to suit the boost applications.

There are so many rumours its unreal.
 
You will need to use a high quality synthetic oil, which will be able to with stand temperatures of around 130c constantly for like 7 hours before it begins to shear.

If you use some cheap semi synthetic on your turbo build and fire it around the 'ring' then yeah, you might have problems :p
 
Loaf said:
Don't mean to hijack, but if I got a b16a bottom end with wiseco forged pistons, and eagle rods, would the stock b16a crank be okay for 330ish whp?
Click to expand...

I have seen OEM B series crank handle over 800whp.

_JT said:
Also no rods available for the B18c then? And I was thinkink, the 1500 was for building the block alone? Ex intercooler, turbo etc?
Click to expand...

There are MANY rods available for the B18c, yes 1500 is block alone.

Gee said:
You will need to use a high quality synthetic oil, which will be able to with stand temperatures of around 130c constantly for like 7 hours before it begins to shear.

If you use some cheap semi synthetic on your turbo build and fire it around the 'ring' then yeah, you might have problems :p
Click to expand...

the old synthetic vs conventional debate, who knows what really works, i do use synthetic though :D
 
So it would probably cost me at least 3-4k? I'm looking for around 250whp.
 
the cost really depends on a lot of things, best to establish a budget and go from there.
 
Guess I''ll have to calculate what my initial N/A tuning plans would cost and see how big the difference is with a turbo setup.
 
A turbo'd B-series is very possible, BUT you MUST be prepared for the cost of doing it properly IMO....£4k-£5k+ for a proper build that will last

Simple as that really.....

If you skimp it will cost you in the long run....
 
4-5k pounds is just a bit too much for a student ;) I'll stay with my N/A tuning plans then (4.7FD, B18c stroking, J's racing replica intake + custom airbox with cai, other exhaust, Hytech replica header, other intake manifold and a good tune. Maybe cams).
 
would b a gd idea to get a ball point figure for turbo'n your ek9 an post it up on the forum would help others thinkn on doin the same thing m8.If ur reali set on that sort of performance y not keep mods to a minamal and jus save for a wile.
 
To be honest, I don't feel like saving 2 years for this kinda thing, providing I even want to spend that money on an engine mod that costs almost the same as the whole car. I don't know how long I'll be driving the car itself. Maybe I will buy a Silvia by then or something else. I find it hard to spend more on mods for a car than the car costed itself.

And even then, I don't know if I can keep myself from spending money on performance mods to make it faster :p But who knows, maybe I'll totally fall in love with it and I might do it anyway :p

About the ballpoint figure, you mean total costs? You shouldn't ask me but others here who've already done it ;)
 
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