Idle Issues after Rebuild


stevenEK9 said:
What have the valve clearances been set to? You rechecked them after running it for a bit after assembly?

Also worth taking the plugs out to see how it's been running
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Good shout on the valve clearances.... :nice:
 
Done some other bits today, still no luck... this is really getting me down now. Got an amazing rebuilt engine with a stupid niggly problem that's overshadowing it...

Here's what I've tried so far:

- Adjusted TPS to .45v
- Adjusted TPS to .5v
- Swapped TPS for a spare and adjusted to .5v (both read very smoothly)
- Cleaned out IACV and replaced
- Swapped IACV for a used spare (both read 11ohm resistance when checked)
- Checked plugs are tight
- Replaced leads with a spare set
- Checked/Set Ignition timing
- Checked for Vacuum leaks (this would cause a high idle though I guess)
- Checked with Lamda unplugged
- Tried spoon ECU instead of ITR ECU
- Checked TPS and Map sensor haven't been swapped (the loom reach doesn't really allow this anyway)
- Made sure there is no trapped air in coolant (car has now done around 100miles and pipes get nice and hot).


stevenEK9 said:
What have the valve clearances been set to? You rechecked them after running it for a bit after assembly?

Also worth taking the plugs out to see how it's been running
Click to expand...

ijwhiteman said:
Good shout on the valve clearances.... :nice:
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Will give it a go, although they were set before we disassembled the engine and havn't been touched since. Just out of curiosity is it common for this to affect idle?
 
Can do yes

If they are set too tight this can affect the idle, in worst case you can burn a valve, so best to check that they are all spot on

If you can find someone with a spare main relay then give that a go to rule it out, also worth checking your fuel pressure to ensure that there is nothing wrong with the pump

It's ****, i spent ages trying to find the cure of a idle issue, for me turned out to be the main relay

Also what condition are all your earths?? Could measure the voltage drop across the battery / alternator, another issue with my car not running right
 
Is the relay in my EJ9 the same as the EK9 one? If it is I could try that?
 
From my experience when the valve clearance is too tight they hunt on idle which this isn't doing correct?
 
Nope not hunting... had them checked and only one needed some minor adjustment.

May have sorted though... will update if we definitely have. :)
 
good luck buddy, I know how frustrating this can be.
 
Not 100% sorted but it's better, adjusted the throttle stop a little. :)

Something weird I noticed earlier though... the indicator was pulsing to match the indicator... anyone every heard of this before?
 
Is your throttle cable binding? A frayed or kinked cable line can cause issues.
 
DV8 said:
Not 100% sorted but it's better, adjusted the throttle stop a little. :)

Something weird I noticed earlier though... the indicator was pulsing to match the indicator... anyone every heard of this before?
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Have seen that on a few doesn't seem to cause much of a issue however check battery and measure voltage when its running. If you not getting in around 14volts with it running then there is a problem with your alternator.
 
Is your speedo playing up ? If so check the VVS fuse... (and i mean check it as it could be your problem)
 
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I hate this when this happens! you checked plug clearances? bad earths? alternator? and have you checked for any air locks in the coolant system? and you deffinately havent got TPS and MAP the wrong way round because it would just cut out right away.

have you replace the rotor arm or dizzy cap?

does it do it from cold or is it only when its warm?
 
mines started to do somthing similar to this but my o2 sensor is gone so it could be that.
 
tama666 said:
Is your throttle cable binding? A frayed or kinked cable line can cause issues.
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Nope, cable is all good

Vtec6000 said:
Have seen that on a few doesn't seem to cause much of a issue however check battery and measure voltage when its running. If you not getting in around 14volts with it running then there is a problem with your alternator.
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Will do, thanks mate

Rich777 said:
Is your speedo playing up ? If so check the VVS fuse... (and i mean check it as it could be your problem)
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Where is the VVS fuse located, under in the dash fuse box?

TheBooosh...! said:
I hate this when this happens! you checked plug clearances? bad earths? alternator? and have you checked for any air locks in the coolant system? and you deffinately havent got TPS and MAP the wrong way round because it would just cut out right away.

have you replace the rotor arm or dizzy cap?

does it do it from cold or is it only when its warm?
Click to expand...

I know its crap right... Plugs good, checked earth, checking alternator later, no airlocks, rotor arm and dizzy cap are fine.

Does it all the time...

shaggy ek4 said:
mines started to do somthing similar to this but my o2 sensor is gone so it could be that.
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Unplugged the O2/Lamda sensor and it still did the same thing :(
 
Its in the car under the dash. I think its a 7.5A fuse (think that is ?).
 
stevenEK9 said:
Can do yes


If you can find someone with a spare main relay then give that a go to rule it out, also worth checking your fuel pressure to ensure that there is nothing wrong with the pump

It's ****, i spent ages trying to find the cure of a idle issue, for me turned out to be the main relay
Click to expand...


that would be my shout. along with check all your earth straps are good and their contact patches are clean.
not really the same but have been having a few old e39 5 series in work for engine almost dying after being revved and coming back to idle. and they've been caused by corrosion betweent the earth strap and the body of the car
 
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Right bit of an update on this (still got the same problem).

Have replaced the O2 sensor (the connector on the old one was a bit stretched anyway) - still no luck sadly.

Also checked all the earthing points and have good voltage all over.

Flickering gauge only happened on that one occation so havn't investigated further into that.

It does appear to only cause the low drop in revs when coming to a stop or when moving... could a fault VSS be the cause of these issues?
 
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