Information on the most common cause of brake-judder and how to fix it
If the brake judder is the build up of brake pad material on the disc then this will fix it. I encourage customers of mine to do the same thing to bed the brakes in faster if theyre going to their next track event soon after fitment.
Location
find a long quiet road, preferably in an industrial estate with little traffic
Proceedure.
At between 70-90 brake very hard down to about 5mph WITHOUT STOPPING then bring your speed back up and repeat! You need to do this 8-10 times then simply roll your car to a stop WITHOUT using the brakes as they will be very hot by now. DONT use the handbrake, once youve stopped put it in gear with the engine off.
Relax and let it cool down for 10 minutes.
Then drive off braking gentlyfor the first couple of miles then test. Problem solved every time,
People get this alot too when they over heat the pads (glazed) and or brake very hard to a stop at traffic lights. Then you get a BURNED on imprint of the pad shape onto the disc. This uneven layer of material stuck in the disc is what gives you the brake judder.
let me know how you get on
Notes:
*Cheap blueprint/pattern parts/econo ebc or similar pads WILL glaze over with this proceedure, factory pads wont. Just to bear in mind.
*Harder the pad/disc setup the more you MAY have to do it to get rid of the juddering. Most track pads wont give you this problem though because of their temperature range
*If pedal travel has been greatly increased after a track-day and your brake system is in mechanically-great health then this is a sure sign youve boiled the fluid. I give my customers a free brake-fluid test that measure the ammountof water in the fluid and also indicated if it has exceeded its boiling point. This test is with a handheld machine and takes barely a minute overally
*If you have braided brake lines and they dont have a heatshrink cover then make sure you inspect them periodically. The factories dont use braied lines without a sheathe as dirt and grit gets between the braid and the teflon tube then before you know it you get a hydraulic leak from the damaged PTFE liner. !
*using the wrong kind of brake fluid (like silicone based fluids that are very hygroscopic) in your car or mixing fluids without a pressure flush can leave you with worn/leaving seals! Most topend racing brake fluids have to be changed every event because of this! which is why its good to find a happy medium for the street
If the brake judder is the build up of brake pad material on the disc then this will fix it. I encourage customers of mine to do the same thing to bed the brakes in faster if theyre going to their next track event soon after fitment.
Location
find a long quiet road, preferably in an industrial estate with little traffic
Proceedure.
At between 70-90 brake very hard down to about 5mph WITHOUT STOPPING then bring your speed back up and repeat! You need to do this 8-10 times then simply roll your car to a stop WITHOUT using the brakes as they will be very hot by now. DONT use the handbrake, once youve stopped put it in gear with the engine off.
Relax and let it cool down for 10 minutes.
Then drive off braking gentlyfor the first couple of miles then test. Problem solved every time,
People get this alot too when they over heat the pads (glazed) and or brake very hard to a stop at traffic lights. Then you get a BURNED on imprint of the pad shape onto the disc. This uneven layer of material stuck in the disc is what gives you the brake judder.
let me know how you get on
Notes:
*Cheap blueprint/pattern parts/econo ebc or similar pads WILL glaze over with this proceedure, factory pads wont. Just to bear in mind.
*Harder the pad/disc setup the more you MAY have to do it to get rid of the juddering. Most track pads wont give you this problem though because of their temperature range
*If pedal travel has been greatly increased after a track-day and your brake system is in mechanically-great health then this is a sure sign youve boiled the fluid. I give my customers a free brake-fluid test that measure the ammountof water in the fluid and also indicated if it has exceeded its boiling point. This test is with a handheld machine and takes barely a minute overally
*If you have braided brake lines and they dont have a heatshrink cover then make sure you inspect them periodically. The factories dont use braied lines without a sheathe as dirt and grit gets between the braid and the teflon tube then before you know it you get a hydraulic leak from the damaged PTFE liner. !
*using the wrong kind of brake fluid (like silicone based fluids that are very hygroscopic) in your car or mixing fluids without a pressure flush can leave you with worn/leaving seals! Most topend racing brake fluids have to be changed every event because of this! which is why its good to find a happy medium for the street