How to Change B-series Front Cam Seal


SPek9

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I changed my front cam seal today for an uprated Skunk2 seal after my b16b developed a small oil leak from this seal. It is a very common place to leak from b-series engines and I have made a simple guide on how to change this seal

Tools:
I used 3/8" drive because of the low torque involved

-10mm socket
-12mm socket and 12mm deep socket
-Torque wrench to suit above sockets and it needs to torque as low as 7 ft lbs
-Flat head screw driver

If you notice oil gathering in the area where the arrow is pointing then you can nearly be sure that this is caused by a leaking front cam seal

Photo0594.jpg




Ok to start with you need to remove spark plug cover/ leads, rocker cover breather pipe and power steering piping support bracket, Basically everything that attaches to the rocker cover. (just carefully pull the leads to one side as removing them from the distributor will mix them up and cause problems)

Then remove rocker cover bolts in the following order
helmsvalvecoverb18c1.jpg


Lay the rocker cover to the side, next remove all of the bolts on the exhaust (front) cam brace in the following order:
camorderb18c.jpg

(note, deep socket is used for the 2 bolts with threads for securing the rocker cover 3&5)

You will now have this so carefully remove the exhaust cam brace
Photo0596.jpg


When removing all of the parts lay them out in order so that they go back in exactly the same positions

Photo0599.jpg


Then with a large flathead gently pry the end cap off where the red arrow is, be carefull not to damage the edge of the head or cap as its aluminium but it sould pop off easily

Photo0598.jpg


The oem leaking seal
Photo0601.jpg


where the seal sits
Photo0600.jpg


remove the old seal and replace with the new one (new seal has 3 o-ring seals instead of 1)
Photo0602.jpg


-Now put everything back together in the same order that it was removed.
-Follow the same torque order for the bolts
-all of the 12mm head bolts on the cam brace are torqued to 20 ft lbs
-the 2 10mm head bolts at each end of the cam brace torqued to 7.2 ft lbs

camorderb18c.jpg


-Lastly apply a small amount of RTV high temp silicone gasket to each of the corners or the 4 cam end covers. See where the red sealer is
Photo0603.jpg


Now replace the cam cover with gasket in place and torque all of the bolts in the correct order again to 7.2 ft lbs

helmsvalvecoverb18c1.jpg


Photo0604.jpg


After replacing leads etc you are all done

New front cam seal in place
Photo0605.jpg
 
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mate i think you just solved my problem that ive had for a while now. thinking my head gasket is leaking because i can see oil where yours was showing!

thanks for the write up!! also rep added

:nice:
 
defo sticky!!! ive seen a few posts online from different forums saying they didnt know where this leak was coming from

ek9.org has saved me sooo much money lately lol. :nice:
 
Cheers lads Im glad it has helped people out as its a very common place to leak oil on the b-series engine
 
Helpful hint

Whenever I remove a rocker cover I take off all the nuts then leaver up the cover about 1/2" using the small lug on front of cover and PAS bracket.
This will release all chrome washers gently and save them from getting posted down back of engine :woot:
Dunx
 
nice write up , ive done mine a few months ago , and in that time i used some liquid gasket also...
 
can someone shed some light on changing the other cam seal..

ive changed the front cam seal like this guy but the other cams seal which is blocked by the dizzy is very different to what i got for the front cam.. so whats the best way to tackle this??

thanks
 
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The one on the distributor is a simple o-ring replacement, did this one myself aswell

Order the correct O-ring from Honda and fit it. Make sure to keep the leads attached to the dizzy or you will easily mix them up and dont turn the dizzy rotor before you put it back on to the cam
 
cheers buddy! ive got the seal from honda thats why i know its different to the front cam.

so just mark the dizzy so it goes back in the same place and keep the leads on.. thats basically it?

thanks!
 
Yep thats it, straight forward.

Mark the top metal part of the dizzy so you dont advance or retard he timing when you refit
 
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