how can i add power to a b16b (n/A)


L

Loki

New Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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4
ill be looking to add N/A power to my b16b the current set up is

2000 b16b about 60,xxx miles
S4C LSD Tranny
c.r.o.m.e. street tune on a p28
aem cold air intake (red one piece)
jdm style dc ceramic headers 4-1 (banged up on the bottom)
bosal performance bro speed exhaust 2.5 inch (love this thing)

all suggestions are welcome the car is a dd now but i would like more power (reliable)

i was thinking better headers
new spark plugs don't know whats best for the b16b
bigger intake manifold
bigger throttle body
bigger intake
i think ill keep my exhaust
maybe a better tune
better clutch
and i need an oil change what oil should i use?
anything else you guys think if so what are you running and if you can name off some brands for parts with part numbers...

Traded my hatch + and some stuff i had for another del sol... :winkok)

Here are the previous owners pictures of the car...

he kept the spark plug valve cover




here are some pictures i took with my iPhone



changed out the shitty ass apc/no name coil overs with tockicos and ground control it was pretty low but i think i could slam it a little more... the stering wheel the car came with would fold in half so it was a good thing my bussy gave me a new one...



here @ work!



found a aem cold air intake for $50



here at work you can see my bosal brospeed and the OZ rims


since i sold my stock headlights for $85 i decided to install my projectors in this del sol for daily use soon ill add EDM AUX lights with hid retrofit but for now here its is! (thanx once more to sax for the lights)


 
Sweet... I like it mate ! Have you thought about uprating your camshafts and valve spings mate ? I would of thought that would be your next step engine wise. If you dont want to touch the engine internals then a mfactory final drive or gear setup would go sweet in that.
 
I'd start with stroking it/B18C swap. Gives you 15hp more and even more extra torque and a wider powerband. OEM reliability and only about 600 pounds from what I recall for a swap and engine if you exchange yours.
 
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He could take that root, but he would loose the short stroke characteristic's of the b16b. Which is my and a lot of people's favorite thing about the engine.
 
It's not like the B18C yields less power in the top. If not much torque in the low and mid range is the characteristic you like, there are a lot of mods that will add top power that you can do on the B18, without adding to mid-range and low-range. There is even a very cheap one; lowering your VTEC point too low. That way you will have the same power as a B16b down low and in the high range you'll have B18 power.
 
I dont want to detract from the topic, but I have one quick question. I understand what a vtec controller does, i.e. change the change over point, what I dont get is how does it work by lowering the change over point lower down the revs, i can see why it works at high revs, and then you get the high lift of the cam, but i cant understand how the engine would perform by doing this at lower revs. I read somewhere someone doing it at something like 2500rpm etc, i just dont understand how that is any use as the engines not doing any work. Can anyone explain?

Ben
 
It doesnt thats why, vtec controllers are a pile of ****, end of !. All they will do is cause a lag if set to low due to the vtec cam lobe being to big for that rev range. Also your fueling and ignition could be out which could cause serious engine damage if the driver starts abusing the motor when the vtec point is stupidly low.

Seriously the only place for a vtec controller is either a bin or a fire, there pointless if you ask me. The vtec point is set where it is for a reason by either honda or the tuner, maybe a couple of 100 rpm might be ok to adjust as long as the map covers it. But whats the point ? like i say it is were it is for a reason.
 
^^^ i herd you can take the vtec kick point down using kpro management.

I seen 1 guy put it at 4,6k. Wud it be o.k if the point was set up lower and the car mapped using a proper e.c.u like kpro for a k20a for example?
 
Its down to the camshaft design, the rest of the engine and the level of torque, not what manament its running. Typically the bigger the cam lobe the higher it wll move the power up the rev range i.e Jun 3 Vtec set to 7000, any lower it just creates a lag up to 7000. It would be ok to lower the vtec point to that point as long as the engine was ok with it. But whats the point if it just creates a lag ?
 
Loki said:
ill be looking to add N/A power to my b16b the current set up is

2000 b16b about 60,xxx miles
S4C LSD Tranny
c.r.o.m.e. street tune on a p28
aem cold air intake (red one piece)
jdm style dc ceramic headers 4-1 (banged up on the bottom)
bosal performance bro speed exhaust 2.5 inch (love this thing)

all suggestions are welcome the car is a dd now but i would like more power (reliable)

i was thinking better headers
new spark plugs don't know whats best for the b16b
bigger intake manifold
bigger throttle body
bigger intake
i think ill keep my exhaust
maybe a better tune
better clutch
and i need an oil change what oil should i use?
anything else you guys think if so what are you running and if you can name off some brands for parts with part numbers...
Click to expand...

Please establish what kind of budget you have and what kind of power goals/expectations you have.



Rich777 said:
It doesnt thats why, vtec controllers are a pile of ****, end of !. All they will do is cause a lag if set to low due to the vtec cam lobe being to big for that rev range. Also your fueling and ignition could be out which could cause serious engine damage if the driver starts abusing the motor when the vtec point is stupidly low.

Seriously the only place for a vtec controller is either a bin or a fire, there pointless if you ask me. The vtec point is set where it is for a reason by either honda or the tuner, maybe a couple of 100 rpm might be ok to adjust as long as the map covers it. But whats the point ? like i say it is were it is for a reason.
Click to expand...

There was a time when a VTEC controller was rather useful but even then, it was not used properly. The Field's VTEC boxer was a simple but effective unit that allowed fuel metering.

Unfortunately, it was not proficient at adding fuel because it worked on the basis of tricking the MAP into reading a different column - which eventually caused a Code 3 IIRC.

So back in the day, you'd have to buy this vtec controller, PLUS a fuel pressure regulator to bump the baseline fuel pressure, then use the VTEC controller to subtract the fuel and then have the cool feature of setting the VTEC point lower.

How many people actually KNEW to do this and went through all that trouble? Probably less than 15% of all who purchased them. Most were just interested in setting the VTEC lower to smoothen out the powerband.

This mechanism was popular in Japan for 2 reasons and is still popular today for the same 2 reasons plus one bonus reason.

1) it removes the 185kph speedcut
2) you can adjust the vtec threshold to reduce the vtec spike during cornering at the expense of power

3*) The days of VTEC controllers costing well over $300usd are over. They can be had for generally under $200 retail and most like $150 street prices or simply put, buy it used for pennies on the dollar..
 
if can find another head built on side be good for you. and get hondata and find tuner. get good gain hp there if dont go ac or ps get ctr pully
 
first of all crx del sol are heavy as **** so even if you build you motor you still gona feel that is not enough
 
oscarsayco said:
first of all crx del sol are heavy as **** so even if you build you motor you still gona feel that is not enough
Click to expand...

oh please.... while 2522 for the Sol doesn't qualify it as a lightweight, it's hardly a whale either.

The EK9 is just under 2400lbs... 124lbs or so is a big penalty in weight, but pulling 50-60lbs without spending a fortune or hacking up the car so it's all junky isn't hard.

The aftermarket exhaust/intake is probably worth 30lbs in weight savings as it stands...
 
RagingAngel said:
Please establish what kind of budget you have and what kind of power goals/expectations you have.





There was a time when a VTEC controller was rather useful but even then, it was not used properly. The Field's VTEC boxer was a simple but effective unit that allowed fuel metering.

Unfortunately, it was not proficient at adding fuel because it worked on the basis of tricking the MAP into reading a different column - which eventually caused a Code 3 IIRC.

So back in the day, you'd have to buy this vtec controller, PLUS a fuel pressure regulator to bump the baseline fuel pressure, then use the VTEC controller to subtract the fuel and then have the cool feature of setting the VTEC point lower.

How many people actually KNEW to do this and went through all that trouble? Probably less than 15% of all who purchased them. Most were just interested in setting the VTEC lower to smoothen out the powerband.

This mechanism was popular in Japan for 2 reasons and is still popular today for the same 2 reasons plus one bonus reason.

1) it removes the 185kph speedcut
2) you can adjust the vtec threshold to reduce the vtec spike during cornering at the expense of power

3*) The days of VTEC controllers costing well over $300usd are over. They can be had for generally under $200 retail and most like $150 street prices or simply put, buy it used for pennies on the dollar..
Click to expand...

Intresting read RA, I never knew that myself to be honest.

I always get the impression that people only buy these because they think that they can just lower the vtec point to like 3500 rpm for example and expect the vtec to kick in as normal.

I see what your saying about how the Japenese use them and that makes sense as they have got that crappy speed restriction over there and seem to love those tight corners to lol.
 
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