help Needed URGENTLY


koruptEK9

New Member
Joined
May 31, 2007
Messages
444
so pissed

Heres the story, Finally after 2 weeks recieved my magnecor ignition leads today, fitted them at work lunch time, started/ran lovely....left work, drove home, got off the motorway, vtec'd it (for the first time with new leads), ran smoothly up RPM then, dead, running on 3 cylinders for a few seconds, pump throttle and engine totally died, put on hazards, popped bonnet and sure enough, lead 3 popped off at the distributor, put it back on, turn the engine over....wont start, police towed me to a safer road, realised i am very low on fuel, but no fuel light ( i have done 15miles with light on before, iknow naughty) so 5 litres of fuel later still wont start, got it home and now its sat outside.....NOT RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any tips, hints, special cut-offs or reset switches i am unaware of.

Help me pleeeeeeese
 
check for a spark, is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to ingnition light stage? check the plugs they might be drowned in fuel aswell?
 
most probably the dizzy has gone mate. nothing to do the fuel (i dont think) as i have ran with the light on for just lil over 30 miles before.
 
What millage/KM's has your ek9 done ?,it's most likely the dizzy
 
ummm, yes, fuel pump is priming, can here it, aint got time to check for spark now, car has done 66,000 miles, cant believe this has happend just because of a lead popping off :(, just a thaught the leads say for b16A , i take it theyre the same?
 
im going to bed, need a lift to work now!!! im so ****ed off, 2 bloody weeks waiting for the leads, fit em and the pile of **** falls off turning my car into a uselss TURD
GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR:angry2::angry2::angry2::angry2::angry2::angry2:
 
magnecor leads are utter crap imo,, they used to be good but made by monkeys now days i think, the crimped on ends just come off easily, try the old leads back on for starters, may be worth while 4 you to order up a new distributor cap and arm as well chances are they never been changed since new, are you sure you have not nocked any other wires off when changing the leads?? try disconect the battery and leave for five mins and re connect, may help but not sure.
 
Id say its your distributor after packing in it can happen like that all of a sudden.
 
the b series engines all use the same aftermarket leads so even if it says b16a on it they should work fine...by the sounds of it could be ur dizzy givin trouble
 
reading all your posts it sounds like the ICM has failed and needs replacing. Ignition Control module is a little control unit that delivers tach signal to ecu and power to the mini-coil to initiate spark.

Ive had a B motor do the exact same as you described to me, It confused me at first as it had spark. But i checked the voltage going into thw dizzy..=fine, checked the sustained voltage over the ICM and was extremely weak so that was my problem. I found theyre about £80 from honda new, most breakers sell them used for 100+ (I told these companies what I though of these imaginary prices). But I ended up buying a new one for about £40 + shipping by Bernard_28 and I had a couple of B motors sitting aside so I took one out of the dizzy and switched it all excellant after that.

Its the only thing that actually fails on the B-series engines. The one I talk of had done 120000miles though, but the factory servicing as I recall reccomentds checking the voltage of these units and changing at I recall 120k!

to check if its this youll need a multimeter and a posidrive screwdriver OR 6mm socked on an entension or screwdriver handle....

The ICM (aka ignitor) unit has four wires 'screwed' onto it (metal tabs on the wires with screws securing it). These are..

White/blue goes to ignition coil
blue is TACHO signal
White is signal of ecu.
black/yellow is switched live from battery.

Blak yellow to ground should give a strong 12+ volts or close to the batteery coltage! if it doesnt (with IGN ON!!! of course) then your ICM needs replacing.

1.remove distributor cap
2.remove rotor and inner cover
3.check for battery voltage between the COIL's positive connector and ground... if there isnt voltage then look for a break in the black/yellow OR white wires
4.So establishing there IS voltage between those two connecitons....
unscrew/disconnect the blac/yellow from the ignitor and check for battery voltage between this and ground. if there isnt voltage then therelll be a break in the black and yelll wire between the ICM and the COIL. otherwise,,,
if you DO have battery voltage then....
5.DISCONNECT white/blue wire from the ignitor coil and again check for votage from this connection to body ground. If theres no voltage then you need to checkon the coil being connected properly, any other disconnected terminals, or an open between the white and blue wire between the COIL and ICM
6. if youve got voltage then you need to test the ICM is getting a good ground as it gets it through the little braket its screwed to. so check continuity between that and the distributor housing. if thats OK then You 100% definitely need a new Ignition Control Module'

a very quick way to test if its distributor related it to have a friend meet you so you can test their distributor on your engine to see it that corrects it (REMEMBER TO SCRIBE THE BACK OF THE TOP BRACKET SO ITS STILL SET AT THE CORRECT ADVANCE!!).



Hope this helps. PS. I use factory leads as make more than double your hp.! Factory works! no doubt about it. Anyone tells you any different then cover your ears and run the other way!

:nice:
 
the b series engines all use the same aftermarket leads so even if it says b16a on it they should work fine...by the sounds of it could be ur dizzy givin trouble

not true, b18a/b use different leads, another reason i use NGK or stock leads, hope it turns out to be a cheap fix :(
 
they do the same job! dont worry about the application. Factory is the ideal though.
 
I tried my original leads this morning with no Joy so i will get on with diagnostics this evening/tomorrow
 
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