Help car won't start after rebuild !


S

Stuarty

2000 CW B18c EK9-Rx
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
858
Alright people, i need some help. Almost a year back now i managed to blow up my B16b block so i bought everything needed to rebuilt a B18c bottom end. The car has sat outside my house since i eventually got everything needed to rebuild it. Now that ive rebuilt it all and fitted back into the car its not wanting to start.

It turns over.
It gets fuel up to the rail but i'm unsure if the injectors are firing.
It gets a spark.
I've checked the timing and its bang on.
I done a compression test and they are quite low, there all round about 160.

Heres the the list of bits that i bought for the bottom end - B18c bottom end parts
My original EK9 head got new stem seals, valves reseated and also resurfaced.

I need some help from you guys big time :(:)angry2::bow:
 
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everything earthed? theres an earth wire that stoped mine it was beside the thermostat wire. start it with the foot flat to the floor and take a spark plug out and it will smell of fuel if its getting any or might even be wet if you have flooded it.
 
Dont worry about the compresion mate it will read low if your engine is cold. What ecu are you using ? have you tried starting it up with your stock ecu ? (just starting it not driving)
 
Have you made sure the HT leads are connected onto the dizzy in the correct order?
 
Im pretty sure all the earths are fine. The ht leads are all on the correct way. Ive got a 98 spec teg ecu with a conversion harness and ive tried it with my original EK9 ecu but still no luck. I really dont have a clue. Could it be the dizzy? Anybody in the Glasgow area willing to come have a look :(
 
Stupid question but does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key? When I had mine off the road for a while I had the same problem, turned out the the standard fuel pump cut-off had activated while messing with the dash and just needed re-setting.

Long shot but you never know!
 
Kris! said:
Stupid question but does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key? When I had mine off the road for a while I had the same problem, turned out the the standard fuel pump cut-off had activated while messing with the dash and just needed re-setting.

Long shot but you never know!
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How do you re-set the fuel pump? I think i can hear it prime. It definetly gets fuel up to rail as soon as i turn the iginition on.
 
Is there a fuse for the injectors ? If so check it. Also when you turn the key twice does your engine light stay on ? if so have you read the code off the ecu ? Its probably somthink stupid mate i carnt see it been major.
 
Rich777 said:
Is there a fuse for the injectors ? If so check it. Also when you turn the key twice does your engine light stay on ? if so have you read the code off the ecu ? Its probably somthink stupid mate i carnt see it been major.
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I'll double check all the fuses tomorrow. I've got Alan from Accessory Zone coming down tomorrow with a spare dizzy to see if it sorts it. Thanks again mate :nice: Heres hoping we can get it running.

Thanks for all your replies and your help people, i'll let you know how it we get on.
 
^^X2 check any codes it came on, even before treing to fire up, usualy i do a check on sensores before start up, then i prime my oil pump and check for possibel flaws on the sisthem!

As far as normal ''whon't start'' problemes i sugest to check voltage of the Yellow/black wire on the PGMFI main relay and check the same on the injectors conectors! And juste to be shure check the valve clearences and T-belt alignement!

And Compretion is to low, did you did it with all sparkplugs taken out of the block and with TB Wide open???
 
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pumpingiron said:
^^X2 check any codes it came on, even before treing to fire up, usualy i do a check on sensores before start up, then i prime my oil pump and check for possibel flaws on the sisthem!

As far as normal ''whon't start'' problemes i sugest to check voltage of the Yellow/black wire on the PGMFI main relay and check the same on the injectors conectors! And juste to be shure check the valve clearences and T-belt alignement!

And Compretion is to low, did you did it with all sparkplugs taken out of the block and with TB Wide open???
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Thanks mate, i'll do all those checks tomorrow.

When doing the compression check all the plugs were out but i didnt have the throttle body wide open. I forgot. Will it make much of a difference then, yes?
 
Stuarty said:
Thanks mate, i'll do all those checks tomorrow.

When doing the compression check all the plugs were out but i didnt have the throttle body wide open. I forgot. Will it make much of a difference then, yes?
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Mate don't worry about the compression to much. I checked my B18 and it was 150psi accross all 4 i thought that was really low. Using the same tester i checked my B16 and it was exaclty the same. If you worried get a mate to come and check his with same tester to compare.
 
Your compression is probably fine ! ! you are checking it when your engine is cold, it wont give a proper reading till it is hot. Also there all around the 160 not 100, 130, 190, 160.
 
I agree, with a compression test you are not necessarily looking for the actual reading itself, you just want to have similar reading across the board.

Sounds like you might need some 'Pulstar Pulse Plugs' :lol:
 
True the mean point is that all 4 end up with almost the same numbers....BUT when you build some engines, you will notice that compretion numbers can also tell you alot of things.....Anyways!

Quick questions! Did you oversize pistons? How much piston to wall clearance?
 
pumpingiron said:
Quick questions! Did you oversize pistons? How much piston to wall clearance?
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It's standard sized pistons. When i bought the kit the guy had said he had the block skimmed and honed and it was in great condition and didnt need a rebore to suit the oversized pistons.
 
pumpingiron said:
Humm that's explains a little....

So did you check your stuff to start the car???
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I havent done anything this morning. I'm waiting on Alan (Accessory Zone) coming down and see how he gets on. :nice:
 
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