EK9 Gearbox Query - Tight at high rpm


ecksjay

ecksjay

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Joined
Aug 27, 2008
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260
Hey there guys

have just got myself an EK9, yesterday as it happens, swapped it for my EP3, that i'd only had for 9 days.

anyway, the car drives lovely at relatively low speeds, when you give it beans, the gearbox doesnt like to engage the gears. For example, cruising about, it slips in and out of gears fine, without any noises, perfect changes etc.

When you rev it, to say 8k, then try and change gear, it'll come out fine but then is very stiff, and at which point you'll obviously be slowing down slightly, and then it'll slip in. Often a blip of the throttle helps it go in, often like old fashioned double clutching, however this isn't something i've needed to do for a few years so i wouldnt expect to do it now :p

Any ideas? Im thinking it just needs a good service and an oil change (gonna get some of that land rover oil for it), however, if it sounds like something more sinister then obviously i'd like to address it asap.

There are no crunches, no knocks, no noises etc, it just is very tight at high RPM.

any help you can provide would be much appreciated :)

Thanks
 
Change gearbox oil. Use honda mtf3 and take it from there.
 
cheers bud, that was my thinking.

is there any difference between that or the land rover stuff? supposedly the same except the landy stuff is obv much cheaper. :)
 
Clutch on its way out? or already is?
I found it very hard to shift, and other symptons, turns out the clutch was no good and replaced it.
 
what are your engine mounts like?

the engine jumping would cause hard shifting at high output/power

although its always a good idea to change gearbox oil if you dont know how long its been in

i use land rover jazz and noticed a nice difference
 
Sounds clutch related. What is the history of the car, mileage/service etc?
 
relatively fresh import, so history is unknown, obviously.
servicing is what i'll be doing, prob cam belt etc, as im certain it hasnt been done since import, so i'll sort that and see how it goes. clutch was on my mind also, and fortunately its not a big job to do if it is on its way out, they arent exactly expensive so not the end of the world if it is gone.

It definately does need a proper service - is there any definitive guide to what main and important things should be sorted on import?

Im thinking cambelt, tensioner, water pump, engine and gearbox oils, and perhaps the fuel filter. Perhaps do the rotor/dizzy, plugs and leads etc.
Other than that, i can't think of any other important things that may need doing, as it drives fine apart from the high rpm shifting.
 
just a full service

oil
oil filter
feul filter
gearbox oil
plugs
cambelt if your worried

did you check for engine movement?

hold the handbrake on and put it in first gear

open bonnet and watch for engine movement as you let the clutch out slowly
 
i havent yet, but i will do. a friend of mine has recently replaced the mounts on his ek4 as they were getting a bit 'limp', so i may well do the same if they need doing.
 
I recognise your user name from TTGT ;)

Not really the same issue, but my 4th gear used to crunch. Tried different fluids but turned out to be worn engine/gearbox mounts.
 
Last edited:
ah yeah gee, hows it going.

i've not been on tgtt since it switched over, obviously. recently swapped my stage2 s14a for an ep3, then 9days later swapped it for this ek9, so at the minute i want to get it fully sorted before i go ragging it about. Obviously it's very underpowered compared to what im used to, but it's quite a lovable little machine even just looking at it.

In regards to the box, it doesn't crunch at all, so it could be anything really. Im gonna do the fluid if my technical guru said it isn't obviously something else like the clutch etc, but we'll check all the mounts and stuff beforehand rather than wasting a load of fluid etc. If it is the mounts then i'll get some new ones, and may aswell do the clutch and fly while im at it, it's not exactly expensive or even a big job, so it's worth doing really.

keep it coming though boys, much appreciated :)
 
Yup,

Eventually my Starlet was running 275hp but I don't regret getting the EK9. Better machine in everyway except power/torque.

B18C is going in next week..that should make up for it a bit ;)

You might want to change the mounts anyway, they are usually ****ed after 60,000 miles or so. Check my blog, mine were destroyed...all of them.

I uprated them for Hard Race mounts, a good alternative to over expensive JDM like SPOON and Mugen.
 
how much are the hard race ones mate? having it checked over on weekend as something really isnt right with the box, may need a new one. speaking of which, is your b18c going in with a teg box or are you keeping yours? wink wink ;)
 
HardRace mounts were cheap, cant remember exactly now! Bought them off Ebay, have a search on there.

I'm keeping my original box, sorry.
 
i'll have a gander mate. a friend has a vti with solid mounts and bushes etc and the pickup on that thing is amazing, so it's definately a worthwhile mod.

i'm hoping the box is nackered tbh, there's loads of them about at the moment for cheap with kaaz/quaife/spoon lsd's etc :D
 
Yup,

Check on Integra Type R Forum too..seen some on there for sale.

The engine response was increased through the use of uprated mounts I can verify.
 
just discovered it actually has a 2-way diff installed !!!!!

Would have been used for gravel type amateur sports in japan, such as gymkhana or something, basically a 2-way diff (either mugen or kaaz) is only useful on gravel or loose surfaces, where it'd be brilliant. i doubt i'll need it on the road, as i wont be tracking it for quite some time, so might have to sell the box for a stock one :p
 
sorted now - the clutch had completely disintegrated :p

Chucked in a new oem exedy (teg) clutch and 3.4kg fidanza fly, job done.

the clutch came out in pieces - a metal plate on the clutch plate spring has completely snapped, and then ripped the disc and clutch cover to pieces, which is why it eventually seized.

lovely stuff :D
 
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