DNR - All motor B20 ITR


Daz81

B20 Guru
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
101
Well i figure i may as well do a build up of my toy for this year.

Its a very tidy 96spec teg.

I deal with Johny/Luke and Tegiwa quite a lot with parts/engines etc

Last September we were up there collecting a B18c for SkoopEK9 off here ready for his engine conversion.

Whilst we there Johny showed me the Teg that the motor had come from, A tidy champ white DC2, they were planning on breaking it up for parts etc.

Now we had just broken the British record 2 days earlier with our CRX

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That little beauty.

I was looking for a new Base for my 2010 race car and after a chat with J+L we struck a deal on the Teg.

I didnt want alot of the re-sellable parts.
Rear seats, or front seats, steering wheel, front and rear hubs including brakes, front and rear access strut brace were all removed from the car, we replaced the stock bonnet with a carbon item and purchased a Series 21 half cage.

This is the car in question as it was before we started

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The reason for no seats was simple i have a pair of red recaros all ready as well as my light weight OMP rs-PT race seat, as i'm fitting a cage the rear seats are pointless and the rear will be fully stripped any way.

I have a very nice suede Momo steering wheel is going in so the stock airbag equipped item again not needed.

The hubs is just cost effectiveness, I have quite a few sets of wheel/tyres for racing all of which that came from the CRX

Wet track wheel/tyres (Raceline alloy MAG/rain sports)
Dry track (Work CR/Dunlop D208)
Road (Volk Group N-rs/Yoko PArada)
Drag (bogart/M&H slicks/BFG's)

(yes im a wheel whore)

All in a 4x100 stud pattern, also my Big brake setup again 4x100.

So im converting the teg to EG civic Hubs and rear trailing arms to utilise the 4x100 packages ive got.

Due to work i haven't had time to do any work on the car, since i collected it.

Well last week i decided to start the re-birth.:))

The Engine im using is my OLD B20 race engine, I pulled it apart and gave it a good going over considering the hard abuse over the last few years it was in tip top condition, all the main and rod shells were spot on so i re-fiited them i felt no need to replace them.

crankoutbottom.jpg


Also a few pics of the Wiseco's and import builders rods when they were new

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the motor hasn't been run since September last year when we broke the Record so i wanted to check it over really, a quick wet hone, gapped and fitted some new piston rings and a new cometic head gasket and bolted it all back together with a new cambelt and water pump.

I cleaned the block and gave it a nice lick of paint today and left it dry.

Our last run last year i launched a little harder than usual and i thought back then something gave up in the box, well when i pulled the box away from the motor i found out what had happened,

Turns out constant 2nd gear 7k launches have paid there toll on the gear box inside the bell housing on the outer side of the diff housing a rather large crack has appeared :shocked:

Not to much of an issue, I was gong to strip the box apart and replace the 4.9fd with a S80 4.7fd any way so i will repair the casings, the lsd is going back to Quaiife for a service and rebuild if needed.

The reason for gong back to 4.9fd is as a trial, 4.9 is great in a track only race car but in a road based car it can get annoying. The 4.7 should be fine with the b20 in the teg, if not the 4.9 will go back in.

The spec of the Motor going in as as follows:

B20b3 block - .5mm over bore, 12 point block posting line honed.

B20 crank, lightened, knife edged and balanced, oil ways opened up and chamfered.

ACL dura glide main,rod and thrust

Import builder con rods

Wiseco 11.7:1 84.5mm pistons

ARP Rod, Main and Head studs

B16A2 Cylinder head, Rob Walker full race polish and porting, port matched inlet, stepped exhaust port custom combustion chamber sizing, re-shaped inlet bridge.

Toda C2 camshafts (will be swapped for Skunk 2 Pro 3's mid season)

BDL cam gears

Toda valve springs

Skunk2 titanium retainers

Skunk2 +1mm flat faced valves

RC 370cc injectors

Golden Eagle VTEC conversion kit

Cometic head gasket

DNR Custom ITR baffled sump

ITR oil pump

ITR oil pick up

ITR windage tray

DNR Custom PCV set up, 6 port breating 3 head/3 block - 2 catch cans.

ACT 6 puk clutch

Fidanza flywheel

BDL 70mm TB

Edelbrock Victor X inlet manifold matched to head/TB

Big tube Tri Y header - On order

Custom 3" Exhaust system with a Border max style rear can.

Tuning will be Crome pro to start with and then i will move on to Hondata later on in the year.

I am planning to Run the car at Santa pod on the 17th of April, so we have a fair amount of work before then. With the Toda cams,

Our Targets for this year are

250bhp below 9k (we ran 248@8800 last year)

165ft/lb

900KGs Weights

12.9 1/4

I will document the build up in here when i get chance.

Daz
 
Can't believe they were gonna break that dc2 it looks mint. GL with the build should be interesting:nice:
 
nice to see people still doing n/a work, all the best

whats primary reason you decided on b20 though ?
 
nice to see people still doing n/a work, all the best

whats primary reason you decided on b20 though ?

Why not?

Simple, "There is no replacement with out displacement"

I started building B20's 6-7 years ago. I have developed them since then.

As far as we (DNR) are aware we have built and tuned more B20vtec's than anyone else in the UK.

They are an underrated motor, all the talk of them being unreliable in my opinion is bull, the sleeves are thinner yes, but a decent tuning sorts that.

I build them and tune them to work with there characteristics, they can be built to rev for sure i proved that with my motor last year 9500rpm on race days.

B16 needs to rev sky high as they have less inertia/low torque due to there design, B18/B16b better torque and r/s ratio for revving, B20's are good for torque on average we make 145-155ft/lbs on most stock cr builds (circa 9.5:1) raise that to mid 10's like a B16/18 and you get more like 150-160ft/lbs.
concentrate on a package to enhance the mid range and torque of the motor. For example, a mild B18 type r motor makes 200bhp, and a mild B20 has 200bhp, how ever the B20 will have more torque lower down, and usually a wider power band, it will make more power across the board up to the same peak power. Torque is what pushes your car forward, and lets not forget BHP is a calculation of Torque vs RPM.


B20's can be built to do everything a B18 does, so i see no issue, Ive built ALOT of B20's for myself, and customers, every single 1 is still running.

I make Stock K20 power from B20's using a stock B16 head with a stock B20b bottom end and worthy exhaust setup and induction kit.

I never understood why Honda never built a B20 vtec, they had it all there ready go.

I have built up a business and reputation around My B20's and will continue to use them.

Daz
 
if you had posted b16 or k20 id have asked same question, purely interested in personal reasoning, to me id say its what your heart really wants and where your loyalty lies, fair play

good to see peaks not being basis and talk of average torque and mid range enhancement is refreshing
 
if you had posted b16 or k20 id have asked same question, purely interested in personal reasoning, to me id say its what your heart really wants and where your loyalty lies, fair play

good to see peaks not being basis and talk of average torque and mid range enhancement is refreshing


After a re-read it did look a little defensive, Sorry wasnt meant to be.

Your right there is a certain amount of loyalty involved, I am a B20 nutjob:p

Peak is great for pub torque (lol) but to me mid range and drivability are key to a enjoyable motor. Nobody spends every minute of there drive at 9000rpm on street.

The Teg is going to be my Road car, that i occasionally take drag racing, sprinting, or track days. Were building an out and out FG front/space framed Drag civic at the moment for the future drag racing. I dont want to make a compromise on the teg, streetable or not at all.

Daz
 
It's gonna be a cracker Dazzy boy! Cant wait to finally get in it lol :)
 
Looks and sounds like its gona be a beast!! cant wait to see the updates. I would love a B20 one day!! :)
 
cant wait to see the end result daz :) and thanks for your help with my teg.. its much appreciated mate
 
"Peak is great for pub torque (lol) but to me mid range and drivability are key to a enjoyable motor. Nobody spends every minute of there drive at 9000rpm on street"

thats exactly how my motor was designed and built, good average torque and driveability, could have sacrificed for more top end but had no reason to want that extra at top end


keep the thread updated, my kind of thread
 
Waiting on stuff today meant i had a few hours to spare so i started on the hubs and RTA's

The front hubs are EG vti items, courtesy of Hond-r We borowed them last year to move Millsy's EG and as we still had them i did a deal with Maz/Russ. The rear Hubs re 4G civic items from our drag car.

Here is what i started with this morning

DC2007.jpg


dirty, rusty RTA's and front hubs.

I stripped down the front hubs and gave them a good wire brushing and cleaned them with jizer, washed them off with soapy water and painted them with hammerite smooth black.

The RTA's were also stripped right down and cleaned, i then removed the main bush and cleaned the hole.

I bought some Password JDM sperical bearing/bush replacements last year for the crx and never got around to fitting them so they are making there way on to the TEG.

DC2008.jpg


DC2009.jpg


There fully rebuildable and being a bearing not a bush should give some nice feedback as there not sloppy.

Fitting required me to press them into position and then drill 2 holes in each rta to secure them, this was all straight forward and took all of about 20 mins to complete both arms.

A good coat of paint and sorted.

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DC2011.jpg



The car is currently sat on a custom made chassis Trolley which we had made for us, it allows the car to be moved in a complete 360 degree horizontal axis as well as going up and down. makes it alot easier to store and work on the car.

DC2001.jpg


The engine bay is now ready for the B20 to be fitted, Ive removed lots of random crap that isnt needed, the aircon has gone amongst other things.

DC2002.jpg


Here is the damage to the gear box, i will weld the crack tomorrow.

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And a few of the shiny engine and box

DC2003.jpg


DC2006.jpg


More tomorrow.

Daz
 
Unfortunately no pictures as i left the camera at the work shop.

My Omni power rear LCA's turned up Friday an amazing 5days delivery from Arizona to little old Banbury :wow: Saturday i was waiting for an actuator to turn up for a customers turbo conversion as this didn't tun up i got around to fitting my rear RTA's and LCA's im using the stock DC2 camber and toe adjusters for the time being, i will be fitting adjustable camber arms when i get chance but i want to get the car ready for Santa Pod in April.

So the rear end is now back together, the New lca's look very good, i chose the race bushes for the rear LCA's i had to remove circa 3mm from the width of the bush to suit the gaz shock fork.

I have 2 sets of 16" wheels turning up tomorrow from a customer, there not ideal but will get the car road worthy.

I haven't managed to find the wheels i really want yet as they are a royal PITA to locate (Wedpsort SA-90) in a 16" (4x100)

I have some threaded rod and small rose joints on order to make some adustable rear ARB drop links, i dont like the ITR rear ARB so will be fitting a thinner/softer EG item with adjustable drop links to set up for my driving style.

The next step is new tyres, (how expesive are 16" tyres:wow:) Hankook Ventus RS2 seem to be a popular choice so thats what im going for.

Will get some pics up tomorrow.

Daz
 
This is cool. I am sure I will have some questions for you later on. I am building a b20 EG this year.

In for updates.
 
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