Civic Type R EK9 Build


Status
Not open for further replies.
Going to be even better with the new bits on and the more aggressive Geo, Bet you cant wait!!! :D
 
Glad i could be of service mate :) looking forward to seeing the pics of the engine re-build!
 
JDMarron said:
Glad i could be of service mate :) looking forward to seeing the pics of the engine re-build!
Click to expand...

Yes thank you for that it really really helped me out. :nice:

JIMBOB-EK9 said:
Decided on the built B18 now then mate?????

I hope so!:))
Click to expand...

I'm having discussions with will at present about possible builds and solutions. :D

Bigskank said:
Were is the car going on the 26th. TGM???
Click to expand...

Yes at the mo, but i may get Will to do it when he builds my engine. :secret:
 
awesome build. definitely alot of time and effort placed into it. oh i forgot $$$ definitely a lot that. took 2 hours to completely cover the thread and i have couple questions/info/etc

curious about the paint on the valve cover. it came out looking exactly like spoon's valve cover. mind sharing the color code?

for any future rota slipstream buyers, there is a color called charcoal black that is offer. it resembles spoon sw388 more vs flat black.

whats the offset of your slipsteams? im assuming its +45 and your running +5 spacers? do you need spacers in the rear too?

sad to see you went through 2 sets of camber arms already. as i know that skunk2 are made in china and buddy club outsources everything to taiwan. maybe try hardrace or wickedtuning next? these two companys' quality seems better compared to skunk2 and buddy club. i been trying to find out where are they produced and havent found an answer yet.

opting for honda oem 4.7 fd from 98 spec itr tranny over mfactory might be a better choice. imo, nothing beats OEM. i bought a mfactory LSD before and it came shipped directly from Hong Kong. last minute i decided to go for an used OEM lsd for same price because of reliability reasons. there might be nothing wrong with the mfactory lsd, but if there was it would be a huge problem. imagine front wheels suddenly locking up and the results of that.

my vote is for the b18c. not a huge fan of Frankenstein motors (b20vtec/lsvtec). any plans on how you going to build the b18c? up the C/R more? high cams? lighter valve train for higher revs? port & polish? port matched I/M?

the way your build is heading, your car is going to be a track only car.
 
Last edited:
gsrek said:
awesome build.....curious about the paint on the valve cover. it came out looking exactly like spoon's valve cover. mind sharing the color code? or who done it for u?
Click to expand...

i think that if you go with phoenix yellow y56 you cant go wrong? or not?
 
gsrek said:
opting for honda oem 4.7 fd from 98 spec itr tranny over mfactory might be a better choice. imo, nothing beats OEM. i bought a mfactory LSD before and it came shipped directly from Hong Kong. last minute i decided to go for an used OEM lsd for same price because of reliability reasons. there might be nothing wrong with the mfactory lsd, but if there was it would be a huge problem. imagine front wheels suddenly locking up and the results of that.
Click to expand...

That's a silly comment to make, if OEM was the best then why would anyone bother modifying their cars? :lol:

Also OEM lsd is rubbish compared to a decent plated diff, the difference is outstanding!!!!
 
Always look forward to seeing updates on your car man...seriously nice 9:nice:

Any closer to making the b18c v b20 decision?
 
stevenEK9 said:
That's a silly comment to make, if OEM was the best then why would anyone bother modifying their cars? :lol:

Also OEM lsd is rubbish compared to a decent plated diff, the difference is outstanding!!!!
Click to expand...

i was comparing oem lsd vs mfactory lsd which both are gear typed. of course plated/clutch diff is going to be way better performance wise. but u know what is even better?.....speed sensing electric lsd systems and the difference is night and day also

i dont see a reason for not buying the OEM final drive when both OEM's and Mfactory's are both 4.7.

when i referring to oem being the best, i was referring to their manufacturing process and the quality of the parts they produce. i was not trying to make a statement saying that their parts are better in performance wise, i mean of course some company could make something that would go faster but would it last as long compared to OEM's counterpart? what im trying to get to can better be explained by spoon and their 1/1000 concept/theory.

Concept | SPOON OFFICIAL WEB
 
Filo83 said:
i think that if you go with phoenix yellow y56 you cant go wrong? or not?
Click to expand...

I think that's my old cam cover, I won't say what it was lol if ian wants to say he can (if I told home how I done it hehe)
 
gsrek said:
awesome build. definitely alot of time and effort placed into it. oh i forgot $$$ definitely a lot that. took 2 hours to completely cover the thread and i have couple questions/info/etc

curious about the paint on the valve cover. it came out looking exactly like spoon's valve cover. mind sharing the color code?

for any future rota slipstream buyers, there is a color called charcoal black that is offer. it resembles spoon sw388 more vs flat black.

whats the offset of your slipsteams? im assuming its +45 and your running +5 spacers? do you need spacers in the rear too?

sad to see you went through 2 sets of camber arms already. as i know that skunk2 are made in china and buddy club outsources everything to taiwan. maybe try hardrace or wickedtuning next? these two companys' quality seems better compared to skunk2 and buddy club. i been trying to find out where are they produced and havent found an answer yet.

opting for honda oem 4.7 fd from 98 spec itr tranny over mfactory might be a better choice. imo, nothing beats OEM. i bought a mfactory LSD before and it came shipped directly from Hong Kong. last minute i decided to go for an used OEM lsd for same price because of reliability reasons. there might be nothing wrong with the mfactory lsd, but if there was it would be a huge problem. imagine front wheels suddenly locking up and the results of that.

my vote is for the b18c. not a huge fan of Frankenstein motors (b20vtec/lsvtec). any plans on how you going to build the b18c? up the C/R more? high cams? lighter valve train for higher revs? port & polish? port matched I/M?

the way your build is heading, your car is going to be a track only car.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean mate, it gets further and further away from a road car. But i love it.

I don't know what the code was it was done at my bro's work. Only yellow they had but looks good i think.

Again don't know what the offset is been ages since i've bought them. I think they're 40...

Engine wise

Skunks 2 inlet mani
70mm Skunk 2 t/b
Weisco hi comp pistons and rings
Over bore
Toda spec C cams
Supertech valve springs and retainers
Titan valve guides/seal
All new bearings, seals, gaskets etc etc
Hondata S300
OEM oil pump and water pump
Skim head polish cut and re seal valves
Full blue print
Full casing and blocks water blasting plus laquer

Gearbox

Mugen 2 way diff
M factory 4.785
New bearings and syncros

Gona be great

I think thats it, awaiting final quote. :nerv:

D'janiero said:
Always look forward to seeing updates on your car man...seriously nice 9:nice:

Any closer to making the b18c v b20 decision?
Click to expand...

Yep.............. HI Comp B18C :nerv: Cost is not great but thats what credit is for :lol:

ash-EK4 said:
I think that's my old cam cover, I won't say what it was lol if ian wants to say he can (if I told home how I done it hehe)
Click to expand...

ACTUALLY its been redone in a powder coat now. :p
 
Here Ian

How much can you not wait to back to Germany? :nerv:

I think about it most days, it's annoying, haha
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top