Why do people make replicas of vti's and ek9's?


In the US, it's not currently possible to legally import an EK9, unless you somehow were able to have it approved as a track-only car. But even then it's difficult.

For someone like myself, I have always wanted to own one of these cars. I had priced out a full replica (everything, even the seem welding, me doing all of the work) to be about 21-25,000USD. Super steep for a Honda Civic, whether or not it's an EK9 replica or not. While I wouldn't have been able to justify doing all of this work and dropping all of that money on the major swap items, someone else clearly did. So when I found mine, I couldn't help but snatch it up (for a fraction of that conversion cost). Now my time can be spent with the fine detail, making a car truly worthy of the badging. While it isn't much of a competitor in SCCA classing, it's a car that I wanted to have in my collection as a fun track/autocross/hobby car. Feel free to check out my journal if you're curious of the car's current state (shameless plug :) )

At the end of the day, when people build replica CTR's/ITR's (at least in the US) it's because we simply cannot have them. The R-models carry a certain nostalgia that is not possible through the typical US-based models.

I can't speak for the honda fanboy rice that typically comes out of the "jdm" parts market, but this is my stance.
 
Jake123 said:
It has a small amount of seem welding,
You can easily do this to any car....
Click to expand...

I would love for someone to Catalogue and photograph all the extra's the EK9 has.

Always wondered where and what the extra chassis seam welding was. Also where, if any, the chassis material is thicker or stronger.

Im half tempted to try and pursuade the owner of the only EK9 in the IOM to let me dismantle his car to find out haha.

Just a thought...
 
KieranEG6 said:
I would love for someone to Catalogue and photograph all the extra's the EK9 has.

Always wondered where and what the extra chassis seam welding was. Also where, if any, the chassis material is thicker or stronger.

Im half tempted to try and pursuade the owner of the only EK9 in the IOM to let me dismantle his car to find out haha.

Just a thought...
Click to expand...

I had a VTI before my 9 and there is quite a lot of noticeable differences.

Just a few I noted http://www.ek9.org/forum/general-chat/11328-official-ek4-ek9-comparison.html
 
Well... I'm from Europe, and everyone I talk with says that I'm crazy for having a right wheel car where everyone drives left wheel cars. Most guys that I know did replicas just because of the wheel position, others just because of the cost of it (though the replicas end up being more expensive than the real thing in the end) but in the end they already have an EJ9 or EK4 or EK3 and just take the advantage of having the base to do it.

I've "try" to make a replica... but I was forced to quit in the middle of it and I've had to wait 3 (VERY LONG) years to have the economical stability to be able to buy a proper EK9.

Here in Switzerland, I haven't yet put the car to the inspection to know if they will allow me to import it, because I have to change the headlights orientation (RHD -> LHD) and check if I have the Catalyst in place... etc etc.. otherwise they won't allow me to make it legal.

But if everything goes well with the legal part... Insurance will be about 80 USD a year and I (hopefully) won't pay any road taxes as I will have the car licensed under the license plates of my day to day car (which has a bigger engine) so basically the cost of the Type-R will be insurance (80 USD / year - keep in mind that this is because it's attached to the insurance of my daily car which is.... a lot more) and the parking that I have to pay as well and that's going to be aprox. 1500 USD / year.
 
The inner rear "subframe" where the rear lower control arms and the thicker anti roll bar is bolted on has a stronger material. I saw pictures from EJ9 with DC2 anti roll bars bolted on this subframe. And after driving quickly some corny roads this subframe fades because the material was too thin.
 
KieranEG6 said:
I meant more so the structural differences besides what you can bolt on. Would be nice if someone had some pictures to show exactly where and how the EK9 chassis is different to that of the likes of EK4 EJ9 etc.
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry no pictures, but it was more these things i was leaning on anyway

"The EK9 boasts

Seam welded chassis
Stiffening brace under the chassis near the rear ARB
Stiffening bars behind the bumpers
A 22mm Rear ARB vs a 13mm on EK4
Better Shocks and springs
Limited Slip Differential
Lighter windscreen"
 
end of the day if people want to drive round in a fake type r then let them

me personally i couldnt live with myself if i was to drive round in something that isnt the genuine article

if it isnt a type r on the log book or chassis number then it isnt a type r
 
That's what I think! Saw a 1.4 the other day with fake type r stickers on the side, I don't want people thinking we have the same car!
 
I personally don't care about other peoples thinking. By the way isn't it funny if they think you have a 1.4? A real enthusiast is able to look for the Type R details and would everytime separate the 1.4 from the Type R. ;)
 
I seem to find myself owning a convincing "replica"...actually if you take a vti and want to make it faster you may as well take advantage of honda's hard work.
 
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