Whats the compression per cylinder?


jugbugz

jugbugz

1998 EK9 CTR
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Ok, whats the compression per cylinder on a stock B16B when doing a compression test?

I've heard that stock B18C(R) makes around 200psi per cylinder, but many in US claims 230psi+?!

Also if you had forgotten to replace your valve cover seals where the plugs are then would that affect the compression test?
 
the compression per cylinder on a stock B16B is 10.8:1
B18CR makes out 200ps no more no less, if it powers out 230ps thn ppl wont bother buying DC5 with K20A(220ps) they would rather juz buy DC2(B18C)R
bout the valve cover seals, it will affect it, juz whether the affect is largely or not only
 
my b16b in STOCK trim made compression numbers of:

235 230 235 225
 
My B16B has 235 psi in the 4 Cylinders :bow:
 
:lol: mine only made 200psi without the valve seal sealed properly and forgot the O seals completely when I bought a replacement valve cover... :lol:

Blinx: what do you think about the valve seals having any effect on the test? There was no leakage during the test though.

I got;
195
195
195
200

Also if your pistons etc are worned, do you get signs of leakage? I didn't get any leakage during the test. I might have to redo the test depending on what you guys say.
 
Amaury_Reno said:
the compression per cylinder on a stock B16B is 10.8:1
B18CR makes out 200ps no more no less, if it powers out 230ps thn ppl wont bother buying DC5 with K20A(220ps) they would rather juz buy DC2(B18C)R
bout the valve cover seals, it will affect it, juz whether the affect is largely or not only
Click to expand...

Yeh, many people in US brag that 200psi is too low, then some people say all guages read different. If B18Cr makes 200psi with a higher CR then should the B16B with a lower CR read less than 200psi?

Some guys in malaysia said stock B16B makes 220psi per cylinder.(RVM your damn lucky lol)
 
jugbugz said:
:lol: mine only made 200psi without the valve seal sealed properly and forgot the O seals completely when I bought a replacement valve cover... :lol:

Blinx: what do you think about the valve seals having any effect on the test? There was no leakage during the test though.

I got;
195
195
195
200

Also if your pistons etc are worned, do you get signs of leakage? I didn't get any leakage during the test. I might have to redo the test depending on what you guys say.
Click to expand...

unfortunately this is one of those things i dont have too much experience with, but a leak down test should tell you what the problem is.
 
I thought these numbers were quite low comparing to other people, but got told that different guages read differently. And my tuner did say it is very high compared to the lowered compression turbo cars which show average of 150psi per cylinder. These numbers are all from his guages. He said there was no signs of air leakage during the test.

So why are my numbers so low? Is it really because of the different guages that everyone uses?

All my numbers are very even and my question is if the pistons have been worned then would the compression drop? So lets say that originally a new B16B has 220psi across all 4cyls and as years pass, would the compression drop across all 4 cyls?
 
sighs, I think I've got compression lost then... I heard from a friend that his stock B16A did 205psi... :angry2::angry2::angry2:

I guess since I'm getting TODA Spec B cams then I'll just opt for some higher compression pistons and get it the valves kit too. This should solve it LOL
 
jugbugz said:
sighs, I think I've got compression lost then... I heard from a friend that his stock B16A did 205psi... :angry2::angry2::angry2:

I guess since I'm getting TODA Spec B cams then I'll just opt for some higher compression pistons and get it the valves kit too. This should solve it LOL
Click to expand...

yeah it might just be piston rings, they start to fail at about 90,000 miles.
 
i agree with the arp stuff, i have arp headstuds, it gives me peace of mind for sure.
 
KND4YRII said:
No need for new pistons! Just get your block honed add some new RINGS, new Valve guides& Seals. If you want to increase your CR a little get " Supertech Flat Bottom Valves " those will increase your CR a little!!Headwork is always a good Idea to increase Torque & HP ! Arp bolts in the entire engine will make it Stronger!!Will rev with no worries!list goes on & on endless parts to make the engine run stronger with Higher RPM's!!! I revved my B18C to 9900 redline before never worried about it because I beefed up the rotating assemble with good ARP bolts!!! Look into those! lots of other tricks I can tell you too!!! Anyways I'm rambling here! Any ?? feel free to ask me!!
Click to expand...

Yeh, I just got a price from TODA high comp pistons, 900-1k :(



Where can I get some ARP head studs?

Is it recommended to skim the head? I don't think I'll need to do this if I get pistons, new rings etc, correct?

Is there any other things worth doing while Pistons, cams, valve acessories etc are changed?

I'm not so confident of the installers and tuners here in Perth. Honda isn't popular like in the US, not many people know the real honda power here.
 

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cool advice!

yeh that pic isnt from toda, i got it else where. but yeh, what wud be the easiest way? milling the head or new pistons?
 
KND4YRII said:
Easiest for what?Remember this if you mill the HEAD you'll need to compensate with a thicker Head Gasket! That way you still retain the same CR!But that will be difficult because by milling it the Combustion Chamber will have less volume! Meaning less room so more Compression! Now 1 problem is if you do a cam swap at the same time if you get more cam lift then stock you could have VALVE TO PISTON clearance issues NOT GOOD!! But if this is a B16B we're talking about! My suggestion is this, keep your Intake cam since it's the most aggressive 1 Honda Offers! And you can swap your Exhaust cam to a GSR cam that 1 is the most aggressive Honda offers too. People think the ITR cams are the Strongest! But this combo will SPANK an ITR all day long!!! I know I did this set up 3 motors ago!!
Click to expand...

who is this guy? are you joking? ctr exhuast cam IS bigger than a gsr, you can tell just by looking at the damn thing. dont make me post up the specs man. and whats wrong with raising compression? jugbugs wants to raise his compression cuase he's planning on getting some cams. running a thicker headgasket to correct the timing is definately the WRONG thing to do, thats what adjustable cam gears are for :nice:

and if piston valve contact is a concern you just tell the engine builder that, and he'll clay the motor to make sure ther is no contact. how do you think people with race cars use MASSIVE cams like buddy club 6!! and those toda pistons pictured will actually raise his compression to 11.1
 
hmmm, this is getting a bit complicated now...:confused: I just want about 12CR which would be safe enough for me... I hope I don't have to do too much hand work on my engine as I'm not very confident on the mechs and tuners here...
I hope this note helps...:nice:
 
B16B Ad. Duration 274/276, Dur @ .050" 236/216, Gross Lift w/1.55 .453/.422
B18C1 Ad. Duration 278/276, Dur @ .050" 233/224, Gross Lift w/1.55 .449/.432

These are the specs that I have on the cams maybe their wrong maybe their right.That's the 1s I have!
But he wants to bump his CR and a cam change won't do that!Mill your head! Get some Combustion Chamber work done " Shrink them" lots of work! He still needs to compensate what he's going to mill off his HEAD with a Headgasket to the same spec of what's coming off!I dont know what your budget is either or what you want the engine to be used for so " Street,Race,Track?? Anyways do some research ask Machine Shops questions etc etc ...

P.S.blinx9900 read the whole post before you start running your mouth next time you might actually know what we we're talking about, some of your comments are way off don't assume read it first! I never said that a head gasket would effect cam timing now did I! I said Piston to Valve clearances need to be looked at!! get your EYES check!!!!!!
 
i did read your comments, perhaps you need to read them yourself, you sugges to mill the head to raise compression then you suggest a thicker headgasket which will lower the compression again, how does that make sense?

this is the cam info i have:
USDM B18C1 Stock 290°/278° dur at .050 230°/216°
JDM B16b Stock 294°/286° dur at .050 233°/224°

also i did address your piston/valve contact, its the second paragraph.

i mentioned compression because i know jugbugs wants to raise his compression and milling the head will do that, but YOU are recomending a thicker headgasket whick will negate that.

i read your comment properly and responded properly, im not sure why you dont see that. and your right about one thing, i do need to get my eyes checked, its been 1 year since my last eye exam and street signs are starting to get blury at 100 meters :angry:
 
this is the cam info i have:
USDM B18C1 Stock 290°/278° dur at .050 230°/216°
JDM B16b Stock 294°/286° dur at .050 233°/224°

Where's the valve lift specs?? the only thing your showing is DURATIONS!!!!!!
 
b18c gsr .423"/.380" 10.74/9.65
b16b .449"/.417" 11.40/10.59

first column is inches second is mm :nice: sorry if i was an ******* earlier, i was in a REALLY bad mood.
 
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