Valve clearances done, now rough idle? Please help!


D

Dipesh

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
224
Hi all,

I've just completed a full service including cambelt and valve clearances being adjusted on my ek9.

The car has now developed a fault where the idle is very poor when hot, example would be when I come up to traffic lights and the engine is hot, the car will idle for a few seconds at 500rpm then go all over the place?

I've checked the cam and dizzy timing and this is spot on. I've also had a look a the idle control valve and this seems to be clean, the car used to idle perfect before?

This leads me to think that the valve clearances have been set too tight, I used the lowest number in the specs but think it's something to do with this.

Any ideas on what you guys think? Should I redo the valve clearances at the higher tolerance? Or could it be something else?

Also checked for vacuum leaks and there on none too!

Thanks in advance
 
Sounds like the valve clearance is too tight. Probably the intake side. Have came across this before. Pull the rocker cover off when engine is cold and set the clearance a little looser.
 
That's buddy, I'll be using the largerfeeler blades this time!

Dipesh.
 
Just make sure you have the feeler gauge flat when sliding between rocker arm and cam lobe as it can put clearances off if not placed flat:nice:
 
Thanks mate.

Could you confirm the tolerances for the valves?

I just want to double check with the autodata book.

Thanks
 
Check you cam timing to whilst the rocker cover is off. Use the marks on the cam gears and the crank pulley.
 
Quick related question lads:

My car has 60k and I am the 1st uk owner. How do I know if i need my valve clearances set, as I don't want to have them adjusted if they are ok.

The car runs very well, doesn't burn oil and made 187bhp on the RR with exhaust and high flow filter. Would the engine make less power if the clearances were out or run lumpy? Cheers
 
SPek9 said:
Quick related question lads:

My car has 60k and I am the 1st uk owner. How do I know if i need my valve clearances set, as I don't want to have them adjusted if they are ok.

The car runs very well, doesn't burn oil and made 187bhp on the RR with exhaust and high flow filter. Would the engine make less power if the clearances were out or run lumpy? Cheers
Click to expand...

If the engine is very tappy then would be worth checking the valve clearances. Has timing belt been replaced as your at 60k? I normally do the valve clearances at time of timing belt change.
 
Mine is just about to tick over to 60k so I did them! Just becareful though, I did mine to the thinnest blade but my engine doesn't like it one bit! I'm going to redo them again but this time with the bigger blade.

Engine will go super quiet ones you've done them!
 
A thing to note is a lot of b-series are quite tappy mate. My valve clearences are spot on and its quite tappy still compared to other engines.
 
Vtec6000 said:
If the engine is very tappy then would be worth checking the valve clearances. Has timing belt been replaced as your at 60k? I normally do the valve clearances at time of timing belt change.
Click to expand...

Done the timing belt a few weeks ago myself with a Honda belt and tensioner. I have never adjusted valve clearances before so don't want to attempt it and make things worse.

The engine does sound a bit tappy but someone on here said before that after setting valve clearances that the tappy noise was not reduced and that b16b's are generally more tappy sounding than b18c's
 
i am also having this problem
lumpy idle when cold
then slowly goes upto 1500rpm cold
idles 800 when warm
fitted ctr cams
valve lash settings
Intake: 0.006"
Exhaust: 0.007

tolerances r

Factory spec for the B18C1/5 and B16A is:

Intake: 0.006"-0.007"
Exhaust: 0.007"-0.008"
 
you should set them to the largest tolerance, not the tightest, theirin lies your problem,
 
if you motor sounds like a diesel motor you need a valve adjustment LOL
 
olly ek9 said:
you should set them to the largest tolerance, not the tightest, theirin lies your problem,
Click to expand...

Sorry, but I disagree. I always set them near as possible to the tightest tolerance and never have a issue. The problem when people do them is not making sure the feeler gauge is flat when sliding between rocker arm and cam lobe and knowing when there is enough drag on the feeler.
 
Yeah, i do them to the tightest as well, in this case 6" and 7".

No problem if done correctly
 
Few questions for those who have successfully re-set their valve clearances please:

Can you nip the valve lock nut up while holding the flat head and then torque after with a torque wrench without having to hold the flat head on the adjuster. If not how do you achieve the correct torque on the locknuts?


Can you use a flex head ratchet spanner to nip up the lock nut before you torque?

If the special valve tool is required does anyone have or know the best place to buy one?

Is it easy enough to get each cylinder accurately to the TDC position?

:thanks: For any help
 
There is the problem Spek9, I had the same problem on the Jordan, everytime they were set and then tightened they were then wrong again, it was a right dogs arse of a job to get right, but Honda do a special tool that will help do the job, or you could do it with a socket that has a spanner shaped end to it, so that you can hold it in place when adjusted. I just found as you tightened the nut it turned the adjuster screw. Then my mate came over and did his 'rocking technique' that Honda taught him and he had it done in minutes, couldnt believe it. Im sure the part No is in the Haynes, or someone on here could point you in the right direction. Let us know, as now I know how to do it, I would prob invest in this tool if the price was right so that I could do this on my own.

Ben
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top