upgrading cams on a b16a2

[jonny]

hi i've read somewere that putting b16b cams into a b16a2 makes no difference and i've also heard that skunk2 stage1 cams are the same as b16b cams.....

so what do i go for b16b cams or skunk2 stage1 cams if i'm doing an upgrade to my em1 vti?

also whats the average going price for a 2nd hand set of b16b cams and a brand new set of skunk2 stage1 cams?

cheers.

 

[Vtec6000]

To say using b16b camshafts will make no difference isnt true. I have talked to lads who used them in there b16a and were happy with the results. They will allow you to make more power higher in the rev range so rising the limiter is a good idea when running those. A mapped ecu for this setup would be best. Apparently the skunk2 stg1 are a little more aggresive than b16b cams. Have you done full I/H/E mod's already? As really you need these to support larger cams.

 

[jonny]

by ihe i presume you mean intake, head, exhaust?

as far as those mods go i currently have a spoon drop in with cold air feed

however i'll be going password jdm whales ***** induction kit, skunk2 throttle body and intake mani,

exhaust i currently have a s/s straight through system with decat, standard manifold is on just now however i'll be buying a 4-1 next month.

and for headwork i was just going to slot these cams in while i do the timing belt as it'd be easier, my mate's running the stage1 skunk cams with a dastek map and he's beating ep3's on his civic vti. he didnt change the springs or retainers just kept it standard

cheers.

 

[Vtec6000]

by ihe i presume you mean intake, head, exhaust?

Correct.

as far as those mods go i currently have a spoon drop in with cold air feed

however i'll be going password jdm whales ***** induction kit, skunk2 throttle body and intake mani,

exhaust i currently have a s/s straight through system with decat, standard manifold is on just now however i'll be buying a 4-1 next month.

and for headwork i was just going to slot these cams in while i do the timing belt as it'd be easier, my mate's running the stage1 skunk cams with a dastek map and he's beating ep3's on his civic vti. he didnt change the springs or retainers just kept it standard

cheers.

Id advise changing atleast the valve springs and retainers to type r ones.

 

[jonny]

whats that going to prevent though? valve bounce or something??

yeah i should take them off but removing the cylinder head to replace the valve springs would i need to replace the headgasket or can i use the old one? suppose it would be allright??

so i'd be aswell basically getting stage1 cams with skunk2 valve springs and retainers, then the throttle body, intake mani, exhaust mani, remap and induction kit

prob like a grands worth of parts there lol. gonna see much gains? my b16a2 with 60thousand miles on clock, well serviced and looked after was dyno'd at 160bhp at flywheel with the catalyst still on and run on vpower fuel.

thanks
jonny

 

[Vtec6000]

whats that going to prevent though? valve bounce or something??

yeah i should take them off but removing the cylinder head to replace the valve springs would i need to replace the headgasket or can i use the old one? suppose it would be allright??

so i'd be aswell basically getting stage1 cams with skunk2 valve springs and retainers, then the throttle body, intake mani, exhaust mani, remap and induction kit

prob like a grands worth of parts there lol. gonna see much gains? my b16a2 with 60thousand miles on clock, well serviced and looked after was dyno'd at 160bhp at flywheel with the catalyst still on and run on vpower fuel.

thanks
jonny

You will be revving higher than what the b16a valve springs were designed for so could cause failure of the valve spring or retainer resulting in a valve dropping and could cause some serious damage.

You can change the valve springs and retainers without removing the head. Use a fitting on a air hose which will screw into the spark plug hole on the cylinder your replacing the valves on and connect to a air compressor which will pressurise the cylinder preventing the valve from dropping when you remove the retainer and valve spring.

 

[jonny]

ooo i like the sound of that. whats the correct name of the tool i could use a compressor at my work.

also you wouldnt be using a valve springs compressor (g clamp thing) so how would you compress the spring to remove the collet which holds the spring and the retainer?

 

[Vtec6000]

ooo i like the sound of that. whats the correct name of the tool i could use a compressor at my work.

also you wouldnt be using a valve springs compressor (g clamp thing) so how would you compress the spring to remove the collet which holds the spring and the retainer?

Here's the kit for the job
Tools in Stock, UK, selling Draper Tools, Sealey Tools, Laser, Gunson and Kamasa hand tools and power tools - air power tools, air tools accessories, body shop, compressors, electric power, electrical and plumbing, engineering tools, garage and works

Block off all oil passages in the head before starting to prevent anything falling down one i.e like a valve keeper. I use a magnet telescope to reach in and remove the keepers when I compress the valve.

 

[jugbugz]

Yes upgrading to type R cams do give good improvements especially when your on a budget. Anything higher you'll need to upgrade lots of other supporting components like valve springs etc.