turbo'd engine spec/build list help

[b16 mini]

hey people need some help,
in the process of trying to sort a spec/or perhaps shopping list for a engine i'm going to be building for a friend of mine for his ukdm dc2, but i need to know what would be best and be sure of parts compatability,
was intending on using the elderbrock victor x turbo kit, and running around 15 psi
planning to start with either a b16a1 or b16a2(have a choice of either)are internals the same???
planning the following.............
-overbored to either 81.5 or 82mm using WISECO pistons(9.0:1 or lower cr)
Flatlander-IPP UK - Acura Wiseco Pistons (2nd or 3rd ones down in the civic si b16A column,)

-EAGLE H beam con rods
Flatlander-IPP UK - Eagle Connecting Rods

-rod bolts to suit (ARP) unless they come with the rods :s
-ARP head bolts,
-0.040 or 0.050 head gasket... suggest me a make please couldnt find much.
-cylinder head.... which would be best? will have the choice of b16a/a2 head or the b18c6 itr head, i dont know which has the greater cc's/ volume for best cr?
either way, i would intend to use the itr cams& springs.
as for the crank, would a stock crank be up to the job, or should we uprate to a steel crank? EAGLE again for example, or would that be going ott for the boost pressure intended?

new mains, big end bearings, new oil pump,seals etc.

b18c6 itr sump, custom baffled, with increased compacity to _RacingAngel's spec
modified pcv can with catch tank,
3" custom single box exhaust,
itr throttle body bored to 70 mm, manifold bored to match.
aluminium radiator+ cool running thermostat.
hondata s300, or maybe apexi power fc.
expect i've missed a thing or two and have a few more questions,

would this make a good strong reliable build? let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions to better it,
thanks in advance.

 

[RagingAngel]

Is there a reason why you guys aren't using a B18C block?

Use the -4 dished pistons and I'm not sure why you'd have to use a headgasket that is at least .040" thick. Perhaps the valve pockets aren't deep enough?

Otherwise if this was my personal build, I'd probably go for the slight domed piston and use the thicker gasket to bring the compression down to 10-10.5:1. Blinx and I are of different schools of thought here. I like more compression with less boost for better off throttle response at the expense of marginalizing your tuning window.

Use the C6 head since it is lightly ported...they share the same chamber volumes.

The A1 has a PR3 piston for lower compression, otherwise IIRC, they are the same otherwise.

The stock crank is more than adequate

Some also like plugging the oil squirters when using a forged piston. I would port and shim the oil pump if that was the case. I actually intend to keep mine since it will do duty on the track. We have a build that still uses them right now.

I also don't see much of a benefit for the cool thermostat. Sure it opens up sooner, but it causes the temp to fluctuate a lot. I suppose it's not a problem when you disable the coolant sensor in the S300. If it runs too cool and the sensor is enabled, the map will stay in warm up mode and while it sounds neat to backfire between shifts..it's a waste of fuel.

 

[b16 mini]

main reason for the b16a is that it would be easier to build up over a period of time as the engine is "spare" meaning the car would be off the road for less time, but maybe we will use the 18c6 block... thats down to my friend and how long he can live without the car.
would using the 18c6 have much of an advantage with torque?

can anyone confirm what the cc's of the head is, its a bit confusing looking at all the spec lists, as they'r all going by usdm spec's
maybe if the 18c6 block and crank was used i would use the +0.040 with -12 dish...... i've always been a believer in going low on the cr,its just safe imo, i once put together a a series(mini) turbo engine with a cr of approx 7:1, off boost response suffered a bit but not loads, it could run big boost with out being set up greatly, altho 7:1 was a bit extreme!
i'l have to speak to the owner a bit more in regards to which block he wants to use.
ok so the thermostat idea is scraped
i'm intrested in what you say about porting and shimming the oil pump, and how to plug the squirters
thanks for the advice so far

 

[blinx9900]

i am very very very sleepy, i promise i will respond to this in the morning, my brain no work right now but RA is right i am going to disagree with him when i do post

 

[RagingAngel]

the head volume is the same.

 

[b16 mini]

i am very very very sleepy, i promise i will respond to this in the morning, my brain no work right now but RA is right i am going to disagree with him when i do post

ok cool

the head volume is the same.

sorry what i ment in the second post was, what is the actual volume of the b18c6 head, in the wiseco piston chart it says b16a is 42.7 and b18c is 41.5 but this is for us spec engines i thought,all thes numbers are confusing lol, i'm not disagreeing with you RA, just confused.
what i ment was, are both the ukdm head volumes 42.7 or both 41.5 or both a different volume again?
thanks

 

[RagingAngel]

B16A and B18C5/C6 volume is the same.

B18C1 = USDM GS-R which has a smaller chamber.

 

[b16 mini]

B16A and B18C5/C6 volume is the same.

B18C1 = USDM GS-R which has a smaller chamber.

ok thanks
so will pistons intended for a b18c1 go in the c6 block with the c6 head?

obviously the cr will be lower than it would be with the c1 head,
but will clearance be an issue due to valve pockets/ piston shapes?

sorry for so many questions, i want to be 100% sure on everything before ordering parts or doing anything

 

[blinx9900]

also i believe the usdm gsr b18c is the same as the UKDM b18c4 at least they appear to have the same intake manifold which leads me to believe they have the same cylinder head...

and im still to tired to respond sorry...

 

[b16 mini]

ok blinx, its no rushi'm sure you'l have lots to say here
all help is much appreciated

 

[blinx9900]

ok i have time now but i am a little drunk but i believe i am sober enough to give sound advice so here we go

-while i do believe in lower compression 9.0 is a bit too low, 9.5 would be a better choice.
-use an OEM headgasket, there is no reason to use anything else. I only use a cometic on my car cause it was cheaper since i was a cometic dealer at the time.
-Edelbrock kit is great, since your going to be running more boost i would suggest you make sure to get the "victor X" and NOT the "performer X"
-your going to need a good ems and fuel injectors, talk to your local tuner about that.
-wiseco pistons, eagle rods, OEM crank are good for 500whp!
-with that in mind realize the edelbrock kit will be maxed out at about 350whp.

I hope i have answered all your questions, feel free to ask more or let me know if i left anything out...

 

[b16 mini]

ok thanks the list of parts required is coming together nice,
one thing i wonder is how much would be gained using the 1800 block, realisticly? still not sure which block to start with. its would just be handy to use the b16a as they'r very available, also meaning the car would be off the road for less time, but thats down to the owner.
i think a power goal of about 320 whp would be enough.

i do have plenty more questions though when it comes to sorting the pcv can/catch tank set up and so on

 

[blinx9900]

using the b18c block would give you better driving off boost, earlier spool up and generally more power, how much is hard to say but it will be more fun to drive

 

[dave_yd]

i have turboed my 9, one bit of advice(from experience) set a budget, then double it!

also, for your catchcan i would seriously not advise you use stainless braided stuff. its an absolute nighmare to work with!

mine is being mapped Dcember 4th. my setup is as follows:
Benson 83mm b18 block
B16b head
T3/t4 60 trim
SLS mini ram & tial 38mm W/G
3inch exhaust turbo back
AEM 30-1050 ecu.

 

[blinx9900]

i have turboed my 9, one bit of advice(from experience) set a budget, then double it!

also, for your catchcan i would seriously not advise you use stainless braided stuff. its an absolute nighmare to work with!

mine is being mapped Dcember 4th. my setup is as follows:
Benson 83mm b18 block
B16b head
T3/t4 60 trim
SLS mini ram & tial 38mm W/G
3inch exhaust turbo back
AEM 30-1050 ecu.

yeah SS is a pain to work with, i prefer nylon wrapped hose, the Earls Pro Lite 350 is whats its called... or just use the clear tubing you can get from the home improvement store...

 

[b16 mini]

oh yes, stainless braid is a nightmare for sure! hard ware /diy store stuff will be used
cheers guys.

 

[EK9turbo]

ok i have time now but i am a little drunk but i believe i am sober enough to give sound advice so here we go

-while i do believe in lower compression 9.0 is a bit too low, 9.5 would be a better choice.
-use an OEM headgasket, there is no reason to use anything else. I only use a cometic on my car cause it was cheaper since i was a cometic dealer at the time.
-Edelbrock kit is great, since your going to be running more boost i would suggest you make sure to get the "victor X" and NOT the "performer X"
-your going to need a good ems and fuel injectors, talk to your local tuner about that.
-wiseco pistons, eagle rods, OEM crank are good for 500whp!
-with that in mind realize the edelbrock kit will be maxed out at about 350whp.

I hope i have answered all your questions, feel free to ask more or let me know if i left anything out...

I totally agree with the above advice! 9.5:1 IS IDEAL for a turbo B. off-boost response will be great and if you use a GT series charger then boost recovery between gears when NOT using full-thorrlte-shift is near instantanious!