Throttle body coolant bypass


stevenEK9

stevenEK9

trackattack
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
4,250
Anyone done this mod to their EK9 ?

Basically you have a coolant line which loops through the throttle body, by disconnecting these lines and joining them not at the throttle body you will not get a flow of coolant around the throttle body

Considering the operating temp on a normal thermostat is 88deg, not having this hot coolant flowing through the throttle body SHOULD reduce intake temps a bit, colder air being denser etc etc.......

Might give it a bash when I get home, try and at least maximise the standard intake before I change setup over winter ;)
 
may effect your idle a bit,, there are pro`s and cons,,

outlaw engineering say don`t do it,

Outlaw Engineering

Hondata says do do it,

Heatshield

what we need here is ragingangel or ek9turbo to post up....
 
Interesting read

Outlaw say that the rough idle etc can be a result of TB with a thermosensor, EK9 TB only has 2 sensors though, MAP and TPS, so thats throttle position and air pressure, so that should be fine there, neither of them would be affected

Other concern is the TB freezing, don't think it really gets cold enough for this to happen, my mate runs his 2L pinto with twin 45s all year round and the carbs have never frozen yet!

I'll give it a bash and see, will be easy enough to put it back to standard, you can read as much as you like on something, but without doing it yourself and finding out, will never really see the truth!
 
yep this is true, all you need is a piece of pipe to join the 2 pipes together or just one long length to connect where the pipes take off and return too and give it a whirl,,
 
Done this on a d series engine, made idle real lumpy when cold so decided to put it back. I'd say just buy a hondata I.M gasket. Most of the heat conducted by the I.M comes from the contact it has with the block so using something which reduced the heat transfere i.e hondata gasket will help lower the temperature of your I.M which has been proven by hondata.
 
D-series are different, if you look at the pic here of a D-series throttle body http://www.1993-honda-civic.com/images/08/jan/d16_engine_swap_01995.jpg there is a massive cold start valve on the bottom of the throttle body, this valve does serve more of a purpose than on an EK9 throttle body where there is no actual valve, just a stream of coolant passes through and heats up the throttle body by the looks of it purely via conduction

guess i'll find out tonight, but from what i read up on lunch, works perfect on B-series type R motors with no downsides :)
 
Will be interesting to see the out come of this. Have you a means of measuring I.M temp? In theory it should lower intake air temperature so you could monitor the IAT sensor?
 
just use your Butt dyno, :nice::nice:

Thats the easiest and most effective way to see if your mods work!! :lol::lol::lol::lol:
 
Well all worked fine

Removed 3 hoses and reused 1 of them as it was the perfect length, bonus!

Before when bleeding the coolant you could feel the TB get ROASTING hot, it doesn't at all now, at most a wee bit hot

Took it for a drive and it drives/idles fine

Guess time will tell when i get it out for a proper blast :)
 
Good to hear it worked out. Might wanna do a ecu reset now to adapt to the changes.
 
just did this to my tb and themp it's totally different now you can touch the tb before you could only cook on the tb !
everything works great idles the same etc.
need to remove air from radiator after all.
 
I did this a few weeks back, I also did the Hondata heat shield:
reposting here:

Here is the Handata Heat Shield installed...

picture.php


I love it.

... and here is the TB coolant baypass done at the same
time as the Hondata Heat Shield.
... the intake manifold coolant outlet, picture from
above, arrow points to the line to that I have running
directly to the IACV.
picture.php


...here is a photo from under the TB looking under the IACV,
the pointer is aimed at the inlet line I have running from outlet
of the intake manifold, pictured above. That large black vacuum
cap to the upper right of the picture is outlet from under the TB,
this outlet use to connect where the arrow points to...it now "bypassed"
picture.php


And below is a picture from under the TB looking at booth
TB inlet and outlet tubes now capped off with a vacuum
cap, bypassed in the pictures above.
picture.php


Driving conditions are normally warm, never freezing temps.

picture.php


Next up, exhaust upgrade...
 
what is this referring to? Note: Blocking the thermostat bypass and will stop the thermostat from opening, as the wax pellet never receives any hot water. If you choose to block the coolant bypass next to cylinder #4, you will need to remove and drill six 1/8” holes around the thermostat circumference. If you do not do this the car will overheat. Hondata gaskets do not block the coolant bypass off unless you block it off yourself, or unless otherwise noted on the gasket.
@tama666 where did you get those caps?
 
Last edited:
i think is referring on gsr's as they have different intake.

i have similar caps installed in my tb they were on top mounts bolts of my coilovers :naughty:
 
my tb coolant pipe is still connected up
im running the outlaw gasket kit aswell
nice bit of kit
keeps the intake temps down alot
 
pateras_vtec said:
what is this referring to? Note: Blocking the thermostat bypass and will stop the thermostat from opening, as the wax pellet never receives any hot water. If you choose to block the coolant bypass next to cylinder #4, you will need to remove and drill six 1/8” holes around the thermostat circumference. If you do not do this the car will overheat. Hondata gaskets do not block the coolant bypass off unless you block it off yourself, or unless otherwise noted on the gasket.
Click to expand...

This is referring the race setup. Unless your a track only car owner, no need to do this.
 
Did some monitoring on my laptop coming home with the Hondata software while data logging. The IAT [intake air temp] is what I was interested in with the coolant by-pass and intake mani heat shield from Hondata in place on a very hot day in California today. It was about 98deg. F outside when I left work.

...after car is 100% warmed up, the IAT was sitting at about 107deg F. parked. Once on the highways, at 60mph, the IAT started to drop to about 92deg F. consistent for about 15 miles. Once I got behind a truck, the draft from the truck caused a 5 deg. F. increase after following for about 5 minutes...thought that was interesting.

Once stopped at a stop light, [changing highways] the IAT went up to about 120 deg. F. But once on the freeway at 60-75 mph, again dropped very quickly to about 92 deg. F. [less than 3 minutes]

Just thought I would share this...this crap really works. :lol:
 
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